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A/C freon, switch or condenser fan?

4K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  dksram 
#1 ·
I searched the forums and did not find anything helpful.

When I am driving highway speeds my A/C will stop cooling then start again. Last summer I replaced the condenser fan and that was not the issue. It works when at idle but when driving it begins to stop. Seems that the hotter the outside temps are the worse it gets.
I was told that the pressures could not be checked correctly unless they recharged the system? huh?

Please, any info will be gratefully appreciate.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
I don't understand why the pressures cannot be checked without recharging the system...But it does sound like the charge is low. If it is low then there is a leak, but either way you need to get it hooked up to a set of gages to determine the levels are correct and, if so, if there is a pressure issue. Since it only quits cooling at highway speeds it will definitely not be a fan not working since the fans are only pulling air when the vehicle is rolling 25 MPH or less. The only other thing I can think of is a dirty coil. You can go to an A/C store and buy a gallon of coil acid that works great with a pressure bottle and a water hose...be sure not to use high water pressure or you will bend the fins.
Hope this helps.
 
#3 ·
Well I found a shop that would check the a/c and they said it's almost perfect and could not find a reason to add freon. He said if anything it was almost high but that was because it had been running for a while before I took it in.

I'm wondering if the condenser fan motor I replaced could be bad or have a small short in it to cause it to cut in and out?

Now I wanted to ask one other question.

There are 3 positions on the control panel for the A/C 2 of which are recirculation.
If the switch is set on one of those can that make the a/c stop cooling for a minute or more?
 
#5 ·
Any photos or diagrams of where it's located?

If it was freezing up would it not go longer without cold air? The longest I think it has ever stayed blowing warm air was about 2-3 minutes at any given time. You also get that damp odor too.
At this point who knows. I just can't afford to let the stealership or shop play hit and miss.
 
#6 ·
Well I really did not like the guys explanation of how my a/c was close to being on the high side so a friend of mine knew someone at a shop with some equipment and they checked it for free.

Crossing my fingers that it's fixed.

RESULTS: 1.63 lbs. required. System had 2.74 lbs.

Truck was purchased used. A/C acted up last summer but I missed diagnosis because the condenser fan motor went bad and I just assumed that was the whole issue.

Conclusion: Never assume it's fixed until you do a complete workup.
I should have had everything checked properly last year.

Like a lot of other men. I had a case of MAN SYNDROME=thinking I knew everything..LMAO
Guess Whut?

Thanks everyone.
 
#8 ·
#10 ·
Before you go spending any money on parts and trying to fix a problem that you don't know about, have your friends shop perform an a/c performance test.

You might find that the orfice is clogged or sticking, or maybe a high or low pressure sensor is going bad or maybe a thermostat in the evap. In todays 134a systems, a couple of ounces either way can effect a/c performance. Running a performance test with the gagues connected might give you a clue onh whats happening.

Anyway, stop throwing money at it in the hopes that you might fix it. There is a reason the previous owner added excessive 134a to the system.
 
#12 ·
I appreciate the input but as to date I have only spent a total of 20.00 on trying to fix this. Mainly on gas from one place to the next...lol
The dealership actually quoted me 80.00 to analyze the complete system and I think its time to let these guys troubleshoot it as I cannot work on my truck with me having a heart condition and pacemaker. And no its not a HEMI but the battery life is awesome....LOL

Anyway, The shop manager sent me to his a/c tech and the tech said in his 25 yrs of working on a/c problems he has never seen but 2 EVAP sensors go bad. He's thinking more a weak clutch or as your one suggestion of the orifice tube being dirty and clogged...

Thanks
 
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