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Recirc door fixed

11K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  BLENDDOORUSA 
#1 ·
Well I have been spending the last few days working on the recirc door in the HVAC unit. Picked up a new door/housing yesterday for $43 + tax (p/n: 68004226AC)

I took the door out of the new assembly and went up through where the fan mounts to install it into the old housing. Pretty simple install and it works perfect.

Bigger issue is the fact that the mode 2 door (defroster door) isn't working and is going to need replacing. This requires removing the dash just to get to where the door is located on the very bottom of the unit directly behind the metal support. I watched the video for the heater treater and they suggest cutting the support and bending it out, but I don't think I will go that route. So I started removing bolts and screws last night and after about 2 hours of removing I gave up for the night. I think all I have left is to drop the column down and it should come out enough to get to where I can work.

I am picking up the defrost door today...funny that they keep them in stock..hmmmm... p/n: 050739644AA ($31)

I hope this will at least fix my no defrost issues.
 
#4 ·
Well the recirc door was easy, the defrost door however was quite a task. I pulled the dash and was able to replace the defrost door without removing the hvac. I had to cut the material between the different doors, but pretty simple task. Got it all back together and ut works great now.
 
#7 ·
rehash this thread?



Greetings. I was hoping to get some insight to the recirc door replacement. I have a new housing in hand, but really want to avoid the dash removal. I am not THAT mechanically inclined. I have sen evidence of replacing the door through the bottom of the housing and the top after removing the trim from the below the location of the airbag. I can remove screws without too much trouble... getting the third screw out of the top of the existing actuator is proving difficult, as is getting the white plug on the inside of the housing.
 
#6 ·
yep I took pics just so I could remember where everything went. I kid you not that there must be 100 screws that hold the plastic pieces in....it wasn't until later that I realized I was going to have to take the complete dash out and that was only about 10 bolts....live and learn!
 
#9 ·
Got it!

Thanks for the comment, I was not able to even get the stubby in there but managed with an offset. I took a cue from another forum and fashioned a tool to remove the old axel from the box from a bit of copper pipe. Cut two notches to match up with the retention clips. Took a bit of tweaking but it worked. I used one of the two new axles that came with the new box.

Also, not sure it matters, but I noticed the new actuator has a newer part number on it, not sure if it was updated to be more sensitive to torque or not, but went ahead and put it in instead of the old one.

By prying the new axel out (ruined in the process) I was able to avoid destroying the new airbox, just in case I suppose.

Anyway, thanks to all you guys for posting, made the job possible, not to mention the money saved.

Regards.
 
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