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-   -   2001 V-10 broke crank? (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=100430)

Whiskey River 01-03-2012 01:28 PM

2001 V-10 broke crank?
 
Questions for the V-10 guru's.

Have you ever seen a V-10 with broke crank? How about one that still runs?
Engine has 138K on the clock think I could get by with a crank kit only?

Here's the story; was driving home from a recent trip to the coast duck hunting and about 50 miles from home started knocking like crazy when I pulled 5th gear. Originally thought maybe clutch as the pedal had crazy pulsating when pushed lightly, pushed all the way in and the knock would quit.
Upon further inspection at home can move the harmonic balancer 3/4" in either direction before flywheel moves, can move flywheel front/back (backlash) 3/4" either direction and harmonic balancer doesn't move at all.
My uneducated guess is broken crank and someone looking after me to not have happened while 4 hours from home in BFE.

So again queston is think I can get by with a crank kit? Would you pull engine or try to do it in the truck (2001 3500 4x4)?

Thanks in advance for any insight and suggestions.

WR

RadioFlyer 01-04-2012 01:34 PM

If it were true you would need to line bore the block. It sounds more like shreaded or wobbled out flywheel bolt holes to me. I would want more proof before going through the engine. Use the same proceedure but with the number one piston movement as evidence. If the crank were broke all thrust bearings would more than likey be wiped out. Can you pull the harmonic balancer in and out to check the thrust bearings? Check the crankshaft harmonic balancer key if there is one as well.

Whiskey River 01-04-2012 03:03 PM

It would sure be nice if the flywheel was the issue, however I failed to mention in the previous post that the oil is a nice silver metal flake now also. Pulled the dipstick and there was a thick coating of metal in the oil on dipstick. I run Mobile 1 and the oil still had a good viscosity to it just riddled with shavings. In the most likely event it's the crank, you are saying that line boring it is going to be necessary? Why? Because it most likely beat up the block near the main caps?
Balancer will not move in and out only left to right, leading me to believe that not all thrust bearings were affected. In the event I am lucky enough that it didn't completely beat the block up, do you think it would be worth a shot at just replacing the crank?
Thanks for your input.
WR

RadioFlyer 01-04-2012 06:05 PM

It's def worth a try, just know that those metalic shavings went through the cam bearings and rings. It will be like installing brakeshoes on rotor needing to be turned so you won't get much life out of it. However, if all you find is metalic oil and no metal peices you should be good to go providing flush bad oil out before installing new crank. Hopefuly you will find the cause when you open her up. In the mean time I'd do a search on why the CS broke. Reason for line boring is if the block twisted and yes they do, did your maybe not. I sent u a PM... keep us informed with what you find after tear down.

2k84by 01-23-2012 12:52 AM

If your crank broke i would probably go talk to the dealership. Crankshafts are normally built to withstand over 1000hp, so unless you're pushing some big time power or running next to no oil, that sounds like a manufacturer defect...they might not do anything for you, but its worth a shot...

GTyankee 01-23-2012 01:14 AM

I believe that i would pull the engine, after draining the oil
put it on a engine stand, flip it over & pull the pan
then go from there

trying to work under a vehicle on a engine can be a bear

Wantedwarrior102 09-25-2012 07:46 PM

hey if you need a crank I may be able to help you with that. I bought a parts engine the other day send me a pm if your interested as soon as i am allowed to post in the for sale section ill have the complete engine and parts for sale. Im going through the same thing but my crank wasnt broken. The balancer went bad the bolt backed out of the crank and spun the pulley off destroyed the balancer and wore the crank snout. I already had the crank kit purchased for my truck before I bought this engine I would be using it myself. I priced every thing around me crank inspection and grinding or polishing is 150, main bearings 160, rod bearings 50 and the crank kit i bought was 455 without a core ouch!


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