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-   -   squeek, squeek, bump, bump. Terrible ride (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=101785)

nicraage 01-17-2012 01:43 PM

squeek, squeek, bump, bump. Terrible ride
 
My truck has roughly 230k miles on it, and the roads in Honduras are terrible. The truck has some stock replacement Rancho 5500's, but I wouldn't doubt that most of the miles are on those.

I've been looking at bushing kits, ($200-$250) and also leaning towards a Rough Country 5" lift, due to the price (under $800). Although some people say they arent happy with the R/C shocks, I just can't seem to find an alternative in that price range.

Is there any thing else I should do to improve my ride on these bumpy roads while having this work done?

DonJohnny 01-18-2012 02:08 AM

I would look at picking up a 4th gen ram. With the multi-link and coil rear suspension, you get a much smoother ride. If your using off road, the trx4 or outdoorsman package will give you LT tires on 17inch rims, skid plates and heavy duty rear shock absorbers with an upgraded axle in 3.92 gears with anti spin rear diff. This truck is a $1500 package that's added to the slt trim, so won't break the bank.

Otherwise I have no other advice. Hope this helps! :)

nicraage 01-18-2012 04:55 PM

I appreciate the comment, as much as I'd love to have a 4th Gen here, it would not be practical. Here is what I'm looking at:


2009 Dodge Ram 4x4 approx $25,000
Shipping to honduras -------$ 1,500
Import fees to Honduras ----$10,000
Bribes to ensure vehicle is --$ 4,500
released and not tied up
in storage for months, and
for being a gringo. (this
changes with the value)
Auto insurance -------------$unavailable
--------------------TOTAL --$41,000

2001 Dodge ram 4x4 with high milage --$3,500
Shipping to Honduras------------------ 1,500
Import fees to Honduras ---------------1,500
Paid bribes---------------------------- 1,000
New tires -----------------------------1,300
Master Trans rebuild kit and +4 fluid -----300
local labor for qualified mech ------------250
spectre CAI ----------------------------100
Master Engine rebuild kit ----------------650
Headers-------------------------------- 250
local labor for qualified mech ------------400
Lift kit ---------------------------------800
bushings kit ----------------------------250
2 mufflers and exhaust material ---------200
local labor to run duel exhaust ---------200
and lift kit
Auto Insurance (unavailable)
-------TOTAL ------------------------$12,200

Okiespaniels 01-18-2012 09:52 PM

That's kind of how it works when I price out a new truck...except the first line on my truck is ZERO...its paid for. Costs 68.00 a month to insure and plates are 69.00 a year.
I don't need a hemi...:)

25 grand must be an awful bare bones truck...last sticker I looked at for nicely equipped 2x4 was 43k.

nicraage 01-19-2012 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Okiespaniels (Post 699663)
That's kind of how it works when I price out a new truck...except the first line on my truck is ZERO...its paid for. Costs 68.00 a month to insure and plates are 69.00 a year.
I don't need a hemi...:)

25 grand must be an awful bare bones truck...last sticker I looked at for nicely equipped 2x4 was 43k.


I jus threw a modest number out there. that means that 43 would turn into 60 here, ouch

Screamintrashcan 01-26-2012 01:32 AM

I have HD shocks on my 98, no body lift, 245-65-16 8 ply rated tires, HD steer stabilizer, and it rides and drives terrible, steering is TOO stiff, and so is the ride... My 95 has a body lift, and std shocks and steer stabilizer, and 205-85-16 8 ply rated 'pizza cutter ' tires, rides & drives like a cadillac... My theory, don't get HD shocks, unless you carry heavy loads, the extra neoprene in the body lift blocks helps absorb shock, narrow tires give a much smoother ride, I would never ever again buy a HD steer stabilizer again, either, it removed my feel for the road. If your steering is sloppy, buy a Lukes Link and put it on your track rod, instead. These are both short cab, short bed trucks. With the miles you have, I'd think about the axle joints and the rear joint (carden joint??) on the front driveshaft, as well as front wheel bearings, and balljoints. A standby new fuel pump and pump sock would be suitable spares, too. pull the ball out of your trans cooling lines, too. (anti feedback valve) you wouldn't want to do a tranny job where you're at. spare water pump and main ign coil, too. Matter of fact, I'd probably buy Lukes links for all of my steering joints, as they are rebuildable, and parts can't be too easy to come by over there, all you need is some washers and a cotter pin to rebuild em, no screwing with the alignment, that'd probably be important there. I imagine a lot of dust, so I'd think about k&n air filter, too. one time expense.

nicraage 01-27-2012 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Screamintrashcan (Post 705193)
I have HD shocks on my 98, no body lift, 245-65-16 8 ply rated tires, HD steer stabilizer, and it rides and drives terrible, steering is TOO stiff, and so is the ride... My 95 has a body lift, and std shocks and steer stabilizer, and 205-85-16 8 ply rated 'pizza cutter ' tires, rides & drives like a cadillac... My theory, don't get HD shocks, unless you carry heavy loads, the extra neoprene in the body lift blocks helps absorb shock, narrow tires give a much smoother ride, I would never ever again buy a HD steer stabilizer again, either, it removed my feel for the road. If your steering is sloppy, buy a Lukes Link and put it on your track rod, instead. These are both short cab, short bed trucks. With the miles you have, I'd think about the axle joints and the rear joint (carden joint??) on the front driveshaft, as well as front wheel bearings, and balljoints. A standby new fuel pump and pump sock would be suitable spares, too. pull the ball out of your trans cooling lines, too. (anti feedback valve) you wouldn't want to do a tranny job where you're at. spare , too. Matter of fact, I'd probably buy Lukes links for all of my steering joints, as they are rebuildable, and parts can't be too easy to come by over twater pump and main ign coilhere, all you need is some washers and a cotter pin to rebuild em, no screwing with the alignment, that'd probably be important there. I imagine a lot of dust, so I'd think about k&n air filter, too. one time expense.

Wow, great information, thanks for that. :smileup:
I'm actually having the transmission completely rebuilt now. I ordered a master kit, and am using a reputable mechanic here who is transmission specialist. Transmission seemed fine, but wanted to get it done before problems. He's also going to put in the 4.56 gear kits I bought. Regarding removing the check ball, would that mean I have to sit for a minute every time I start my truck?

The lift kit I ordered has the nitro shock upgrade, subposedly better for offroad. I guess I'll find out soon enough :Wow1:

Lukes Link looks interesting. I'm doing a bit of reading on it, trying to figure it out. Looks like great advice

I have a Spectre COI on it, and I bought a k&N cleaning kit, and some flex gutter spout http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...01_i00_details
to run true cold air from the grill to it. I also bought some polyester mesh sheets http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...02_i00_details
with different micron openings, to cover the intake for dust and debris.


All in all, I appreciate your post. That is exactly the type of info I was hoping to recieve :smiley_thumbs_up:

Screamintrashcan 01-28-2012 02:18 AM

Removing the antifeedback ball check will not affect driveability whatsoever, unless it sits undriven for weeks on end, initial startup and driveaway will be affected for seconds. To cure the delay if it bothered you would simply be a matter of sticking it in neutral for a moment upon startup, to allow the pump to move the fluid around, I haven't had any problems with simply driving away gently, Probably not one of the smartest things you can do, but it hasn't caused any grief, after many years of this. My longterm experience, approx. 3ook miles, on my two, has been overall good. I am not nice to my vehicles, either, seldom do they move without a 7 or 8k trailer, hauling anything from cattle to tractors,however, I try and do all the necessary tricks that the factory SHOULD have done for longetivity. They have me beat on the bodies, tho, I have recently started to notice that the bodies have terminal cancer. By this time, next year, I shall have something that the bodies arent sick, on. The body on yours sure looks nice, mine looking that way is a distant memory. tops of wheel wells are toast, as are rockers and door bottoms. If you are putting together a critical parts list, let me know, I'll fix you up with what its been my experience you may need to stay rolling.


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