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keystone183 03-06-2012 12:44 PM

AUX Switches!!
OK. I'm FINALLY getting around to getting this all written up. I have my aux switch bank installed and fuse/relay box under the hood, and everything works great, so far. It really wasn't that difficult once i got a few things figured out. I can't seem to post pictures, so you'll have to be satisfied with links. There are write-ups for almost everything I did on this site somewhere (dash removal, through firewall). Search if you need a how to.

First was to install the switch bank itself. Not real difficult.

Pull off the dash face, and unplug everything. I can't remember if the unused plug is plugged into the blank "Ram" plate or not. It may be just free back there.

There are a couple screws that need to be removed from the blank, and then just pry it out. There are some standard tabs that hold it in place.

Pop the new one in and replace the screws. Be sure you have it right side up....ooops.

I used all of the white wires that came in the wire harness from dodge. Plug that into the plug pictured above. First i wired in the power. There are three wires on the pre-wired plug provided by Dodge on my 2011 Outdoorsman. Black with green, red with white, white with green.

Cut the plug off. I used this wiring diagram to wire the plug. I would credit whoever made this, but i've seen it lots of places and not sure who is the original author. But, thanks much to them. Label all the wires that aren't power so it is easy to tell what is what.

I used some crimp on splices to connect the factory power wire to the two switch powers. It worked well to keep things compact. I realize i don't have a very good picture of this. Sorry.

Next i put in the fuse relay box. First two links are the pic, next is what i used.

Page 38 is the product. I ordered it with 10 fuse spots and 5 mini relays. only the fuse side is bussed. If both are, this setup won't work. Trust me i know.

I had a hard time with where to mount it. The picture is what i came up with. Its drivers side against the firewall. I don't love it because its hard to get the cover off because the battery is in the way, but i honestly couldn't come up with another easily accessible spot that i could easily mount this to and have access to the front and back. That is the only down side to this product is that the wiring comes in from the back. That being said i took some angle, drilled some holes and used an existing hole to mount the angle. Don't mount the box yet, not until you're all finished.

I ordered the box with wires pre-made. There were 5' long, so next i drilled a hole in the black plate through the firewall and fed my wires through it.

Then i soldered them all to the white wires from the plug wiring harness. Again, it helps if you label your wires where they terminate to the fuse box so you know what is what and avoid confusion when you go to hook everything up.

Next was what was about the most complicated. The wiring. I'm lacking some pictures here, because this took me a few tries to get right, and i was pretty frustrated and forgot to take pictures. I'll explain as best I can, and if you have questions, let me know.

First i built the box wiring. Decide the 5 slots on the fuse side for the power to the relays. I skipped one each time to give more space for the following. Because the wire from the switch on the dash you installed is a ground, you have to power both legs of the relay from the fuse side. That is, to say i built a jumper to go from the fused side (power) to both the 86 and 30 legs on the relay. I soldered the wires all together and slipped some heat shrink over them. I kept them short so they'd be less clutter. Again, sorry no pictures. The wire from the switches goes on the 85 leg. The power out to whatever you are switching on and off goes to 87. The numbers are marked on the actual relay so you have to pay attention to what position it will be in when you plug it in to the housing. If you get them to send you pre-made wires, they come with a metal termination that slides in the back of the housing and locks into place. Very handy. Luckily with a VERY small screwdriver, you can push the tab that retains the wire if you happen to screw up.

Next i wired the power to the fused side. It is bussed, so one hookup supplies all the slots with power.

I snaked the wire around the battery and to the factory fuse bank.

Insert your fuses, and bingo bango. You have a fused, switchable, clean factory looking output. Four of them actually.

I think that just about covers it. If you have any questions or i have left anything out of what is a very long write-up, let me know. Again, it really was pretty simple, and i have to thank members on here who had done alot of the hard work for me, so it was just a matter of putting it all together!

highlandchef 03-06-2012 02:45 PM

Great work and thanks for all the info! Reps for that! :smileup:

snrusnak 03-06-2012 02:49 PM

Thanks! I'll have to read through this later...

keystone183 03-06-2012 03:20 PM


Originally Posted by snrusnak (Post 742621)
Thanks! I'll have to read through this later...

Possibly, i was a bit long winded...:wow:

Additionally. Thought i'd post my other addition.

I added a mount and power for my streamlight under the drivers seat. Ran the power from the fuse/relay box to behind the dash. Wired up an auxillary power point and plugged the charger into it. I mounted the pp to a cross bar with a hole in it. Worked out fine. I snaked the cable under the door jamb trim and under the carpet. I didn't want to cut the cig plug off in case i ever want to take it out and use it somewhere else. Probably should have and just bought a new one, i'll never go through the trouble i'm sure...

Jsty093083 03-06-2012 04:06 PM

amazing write up, ill be doing this this spring. How much was the fuse box if you dont mind me asking?

+ Rep pts for sure!

CTYHNTR 03-06-2012 04:22 PM

Nicely done man, good job on researching everything and getting it to work.

keystone183 03-06-2012 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by Jsty093083 (Post 742665)
amazing write up, ill be doing this this spring. How much was the fuse box if you dont mind me asking?

+ Rep pts for sure!

Thanks, i appreciate all the compliments. If i remember correctly it was about $60 for the fuse/relay box, the five relays, mounting brackets (which i didn't use) and a 5' 14ga terminated wire for EVERY position, which is 45, and a few cavity plugs for spots left blank. And two day express shipping.

RansRAM 03-10-2012 09:30 AM

Awesome job there, reps to ya.

wbowyer 03-10-2012 03:56 PM

Looks great! I love how it looks completely OEM as well! Now what powered additions are you planning on adding? I am looking to add some auxiliary lights and offroad lights and this would be perfect

2012 PW ST 04-04-2012 04:12 AM

Hey keystone183,

Nice writeup. Thanks for taking the time & pics to do so!

I'm about to undertake this mod project on a new 2012 PW in a couple weeks.

Quick question: Did you happen to check whether the red/white 12v wire (from the unused "seat heater" wiring) that you drew power from for pins 1 & 7 was already fused? Hopefully it is. Just seems like an important little detail to make sure of for added safety.

Let us know. Thanks again.


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