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-   -   Transmition (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=111737)

bigmikelrg 05-01-2012 08:37 PM

Transmition
 
Do they sell performance kits for my transmition for my 99?

SolidRam 05-02-2012 05:17 AM

Not that I'm aware of, you could put a shift kit on it or upgrade your transmission, or use a programmer. What exactly are you wanting to get out of it?

bigmikelrg 05-03-2012 03:43 AM

Better response firmer shifts more tq

ramvan2500 05-03-2012 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmikelrg (Post 791148)
Better response firmer shifts more tq

Better response starts with a better transmission! But working with what you have since it's a 1999 then some of the changes are going to be done to the ECM, then firmer shifts you can use a shift kit which I am against but it's up to you, more torque from a transmission ok then you will need to change planetaries and ring gears for that so you have different gearing. But remember the torque converter multiplies torque at lower speeds so you can put a different torque converter on which will help with lanuch. Ummm, as far as getting a firmer shift is concerned you would have to change a couple valves in the valve body for timing which is what a shift kit really issue or you can change things like the line pressure, kickdown lever, change the clutches, change the shift point make it a little higher so you can get as much out of whatever gear you're in.
But just buy a shift kit and call it a day, like I said I'm against it but I don't want to get to in depth with chaning components because I could write a book lol

bigmikelrg 05-04-2012 09:49 PM

Well since the last time we spoke I completed my transmissison course and am VERY FAMILIAR with my tranny so tearing it down is no proble so where and wat should I get for planetary gears and same goes for ring gears also wat stall converter and suggested line pressure and y not a shift kit

ramvan2500 05-04-2012 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmikelrg (Post 792554)
Well since the last time we spoke I completed my transmissison course and am VERY FAMILIAR with my tranny so tearing it down is no proble so where and wat should I get for planetary gears and same goes for ring gears also wat stall converter and suggested line pressure and y not a shift kit

Well it's good you took a course, very nice to see some people expand there minds. It also makes my job easier :P

Anyways speaking in terms of planetary gears it's a science!
For example the carrier, you have a choice of aluminum or steel, the benefits are of there materials, steel is stronger but heavier, aluminum lighter yet weaker then the steel. Then the number of planets, the more planets you have then the more torsional strength of the planet so the more load you can place on the planet, the issue with having more planets generally more then 3 is that it may not be very precise and there can be some vibrations from the planet now of course with wear the planets will wear down and begin to spin more truely and vibration will decrease.
Also if it's a stright cut or angle cut, and how many degrees is the angle, straight cuts are stronger but produce more noise, angle cuts the opposite less noise at the expensense of durability of course you can substitute with more planets OR having it cut at a lesser angle say 15 degrees. I could literally sit down for hours with a white board and show you designs, materials, anything and everything. The stock planets are simpson style planetaries well most are.


I personally am happy with the 6 planet aluminum carriers, they hold up well, even when towing! Generally you will want to switch to steel if you do some serious towing or any type of racing mostly drag racing.

The next thing you want to look into is the overrunning clutch or commonly the sprag, you want to change out the cam (outer race) and get one that is a bolt in, SMR transmissions sells a kit for the 46,47, and 48. The reason being is because the stock cam is just a press fit and if you shock load the transmission (loss of traction then traction) the cam could easily break loose and rip the case apart.

If you go into anything performance like that you are going to want to replace the forward drum and direct drum, if the overrunning clutch was to fail then the forward drum would spin 2.2 times as fast as it's input speed which would cause the transmission to explode which is EXTREMELY dangerous!

As far as ring gears, the stock ring gears are usually a medium carbon steel and are heat treated. They have to be in order to support the load.

As for the converter, you can't just shell out a stall speed, it's going to be based on so many variables hp, torque, the rpm of which they are produced, vehicle weight, gearing. It's pretty complicated, but you can think of it like this, if you race use a higher stall speed, if you tow or just a daily driver a low stall speed will do fine. I run a 2000-2200 stall and it gets the job done.

As for line pressure, it's going to depend on variables like anything. Math had to be used to engineer the machine so math or atleast some logic is going to be used to modify it, that's if you want it right.

The reason for no shift kits, because most of the kits require you to drill holes in the valve body. Now doing simple valve changes like sonnax manual valve, regulator valve, and throttle valve is ok because those are to correct common issues more then affect the shift timing.

You can change line pressure to increase the shifts, I can't tell you what PSI to set anything to because the line pressure changes in relationship to the pump and the valve body itself, this is why there are test ports on the outside of the bell housing in addition to diagnostics.

If you want my opinion on clutchs, alto red eagle and use there kolene steels. I won't use anything else they are the best period dot.

Seal kits, transtec is all I use, there kits are pretty complete and they aren't expensive at all so why not.

Another thing I do it's odd but: For the front band I use borg warner and the reason why is because of a few reasons inexpensive, thick friction material layer so last longer less replacement, and have more surface area. Then for the rear band I use raybestos hi energy, why because it works and I don't use reverse as often as my drive range so wear to the drum won't be significant at all. The original bands in the 95 and earlier use to be made by advanced friction materials who was actually bought out by raybestos in later 95 early 96.

Stay away from kevlar or carbon bands unless you have the money to replace drums.

Bushings, use clevite cannot go wrong with them for dam sure!

if you want my fluid opinion, this is just my opinion: Valvoline ATF+4 it costs a pretty penny but all atf+4 does!

another thing i do is install an external cooler of course because these tf's run pretty dam hot! also remove the anti-flow valve helps increase flow and reduce the risk of overheating due to a lack of fluid.

there is just so much I could write about the torque flite, great transmission but if you're going to use it in competition performance it needs some work, other then that I have seen 727's behind vehicles with over 1000HP. another issue is the number system, they say 46rh right so 600 ft-lbs but remember the torque converter multiplies torque of course it's in proportion to speed so as the TC speeds up the multiplication decreases and vice versa. this is something many people forget about is the torque converter multiplying torque, now of course you can exceed the limit but for how long is the question.

anyways you ever have any questions you know you can always ask me im more then happy to answer questions or lend a hand anytime, transmissions are something i really enjoy. i work only with torqueflites so im limited.

bigmikelrg 05-13-2012 06:10 PM

Hell yea thx and idk wat modle I have the 46 47...idk there pretty much the same besides a couple common changes right ...and wat set up should I go with talking planetary steel aluminum spra TC overdrive and the lil things to acumulator piston ect. if it's a daily driver and for that time I roll up on some Kid in their civic I want the most out of it also later shifts?

ramvan2500 05-13-2012 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmikelrg (Post 798238)
Hell yea thx and idk wat modle I have the 46 47...idk there pretty much the same besides a couple common changes right ...and wat set up should I go with talking planetary steel aluminum spra TC overdrive and the lil things to acumulator piston ect. if it's a daily driver and for that time I roll up on some Kid in their civic I want the most out of it also later shifts?


Well like I said I have always make out well with Aluminum Carriers, steel carriers are the best option if you do some serious duty towing and if the transmission is going behind a 600+ HP dragster. As for the overrunning clutch outer race, the stock is fine for daily driving and light to mid duty towing. But if you are going to do any type of extreme racing, heavy duty towing, or any burn outs you're going to want to get the SMR Bolt-On overrunning clutch outer race. But even with the SMR race, you still should refrain from doing burn outs in D range 1st gear. There is a trick you can and should do if you do a burn out with the torque flites to prevent case damage due to that race. What you do is start out in Manual first gear, the reason for manual 1st gear is the rear band will engage onto the rear drum so then the overrunning clutch isn't in use. So what you would do is start out in manual 1st gear and then shift to manual 2nd gear while doing the burn out, this ways when you gain traction you don't risk tearing the case apart during the burn out. If you are going to build the transmission for racing then you should use a kevlar rear band because it seems to have less slip but at the cost of drum surface wear.

But daily driver how it's setup now is fine just refrain from burn outs. Or if you must do a burn out do it in manual 1st gear and while in mid burnout shift it into manual 2nd.

shift points can be changed using a shift kit or you can adjust the throttle valve cable for later shifts, however if you take the throttle valve cable adjustment route driving around town will be annoying because how the transmission will shift, basically around town if you want to pass someone you have to damn near floor that pedal.

For daily driving the truck in stock form is perfect, if you plan on racing then it's going to need work all over the truck trans, engine, rear end, so on...

But in order for me to give recommendations of parts and modifications to the transmission I would want to know exactly what the truck is used for, if you are going to be racing, towing, or just going to be some sunday driver. Of course some people I being one of them like to build the transmission so it has racing parts but mainly for the durability, if that is what you want then no problem.

As for the accumulators, and pistons, there is a wide selection. Some people sell custom made ones that will give you tall tall shifts, then some that are almost leak free. But before you can even build a transmission you have to inspect the bell housing to make sure that it is acceptable for rebuilding, many bell housings have scoring and scuffs in the accumulator and servo bores.

bigmikelrg 05-17-2012 07:24 PM

It is going to be used for daily driver and raceing also eventually a stroker and I'm doin the tranny first because it feels/seems like when going from 2-3 and 3-4 gears it up shifts down shifts and up shifts again simotaniously when I geton the gas 75-100% throttle

ramvan2500 05-17-2012 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigmikelrg (Post 801277)
It is going to be used for daily driver and raceing also eventually a stroker and I'm doin the tranny first because it feels/seems like when going from 2-3 and 3-4 gears it up shifts down shifts and up shifts again simotaniously when I geton the gas 75-100% throttle

Keep you eye on the tach to check for up/down shifts. Provided the transmission isn't immediately shifting into 4th after 3rd then the transmissions sounds fine, but you have to make sure it isn't jumping gears back and forth, if it does keep jumping gears 4,3,4,3,4,3 then you probably have an issue with the motor or torque converter more then the transmission but I can't promise that unless I drive it.

As for building the transmission for racing and daily driving, the transmissions in these trucks aren't made for racing but can be however it's going to be limiting. But I can make you up a list of parts and modifications no problem, I would like to know how much you are willing to spend though because if you want all out racing then it's going to cost your some bucks but if you want something like 15% racing and 85% regular driving then not a problem.


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