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-   -   97 4x4 right front wheel (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=113092)

Drone dog 05-19-2012 08:16 PM

97 4x4 right front wheel
 
I was checking the tire on the right front wheel today and noticed when I had the truck on the jack, the wheel would wobble. I bought the truck 8mths ago and have not touched anything. It has about 170k miles on it.
So I pulled the wheel off. I thought maybe I would check the spindle nut. It is too rusted to move it. I sprayed some pb blaster on it a few times but could not break the nut free. Since I could not get it off, I could not tell if someone put the nut on and left off a washer???? Or if it is just that the spindle is bad.
First... And suggestions to get the nut loose? Size of nut? Should it have a washer? I can't imagine the wheel bearing can last too long like this. Since it is 4 wheel drive, I am not real sure how the spindle mounts. Is there a place I can see the breakdown pic of the wheel assembly?
Thanks for any help.
Dog

Drone dog 05-19-2012 08:34 PM

Sorry for the post guys, I just checked out u-tube and saw the video... Either the assembly is loose or the assembly is bad.

Drone dog 05-20-2012 06:51 AM

Although one thing I could use is the torque settings for all the bolts, assembly, brake caliper, hub nut.

Warlock III 05-20-2012 08:31 AM

Is this a private conversation...or can just anyone jump in here??

I've done about 100 of these bearings and that's what it sounds like. I think the nut is a 1 1/16th or a 38mm. Most of them don't have a washer because the nut turns with the axle shaft.

The torque setting I use is TAH (tight as h...). You'll know when it's tight. The axle nut doesn't have a torque setting that I'm aware of. The instructions just say to NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN. It smooshes the bearing in too tight and wears prematurely.

If I run across a stubborn nut I put the truck on the ground to keep weight on it, or use a 10 inch round punch and tap it into one of the rotor vents and let it lock itself against the bottom of the caliper mount.

Breaker bar and a 4 ft piece of pipe.

If the bearing refuses to come out...Snap-on makes a tool especially for it. Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the bearing in and leave them about 1/2 way. The tool fits onto the bolt head and pushes on the bolt to inturn push the bearing out. And a 4lb hammer.

Drone dog 05-25-2012 12:02 PM

ok, got it all done. took about 4 hours including a half hour at Auto ZOne... twice. i used a 24" breaker bar and a 1-3/4 socket to get the axle bolt off. it was a bear but it broke free. that was the only thing i had an issue with getting off. i just backed off the 3 bolts that hold the assembly on about 6 turns and then popped them all once with a 2# hammer. after that i used a tie-rod separator bar to get the bearing assembly off. the universal was also worn badly so i replaced it while i was there. All put back together and everything seems fine. better yet i check the left side and the wheel does not wobble at all so i assume it is good to go. the universal also was tight. So back in business in about 4 hours. Not too bad. thanks for the help and suggestions.

SnoopyIsMyHero 05-25-2012 12:17 PM

The actual size of the nut should be 1 11/16th, a real pain to find the socket but Tractor Supply carries them if you have one around. Glad you got it fixed. As an FYI, if you ever snap those hub bolts, AFAIK, none of the big chain stores carry them. The dealer can get them for you but it's much cheaper to get head bolts for a mid-80s Nissan 2.4 motor, they are the same bolts, including that funky shoulder.


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