Buying 2001 2500 Cummins
Hello all - I am looking at buying a 2001 2500 Cummins 4x4 with 196k.
Any thoughts on the 2001 and things to look for? Its a second owner and they bought it late last year and only put 6k miles on it; says he bought it from a buddy and has a 99 cummins of his own so he doesn't need it. Says everything is all original including transmission, and not sure of all work done.
Thanks for any input.
Well I have that same eng in a 2001 sterling 24 ft. Box truck that rutely hauls 30,000 gvw. Its a power house and has 365,000 km on it. The main issue with it was fuel lift pump and its a well known fault of cummins. That's the first thing I would be prepared to replace if it wasn't done. Also ball joints go out cause the orig are nonservicable. And 4x4 has issues with vacc servo to lock in axl but the rest is basic. Also watch u joints if you get to aggressive they might pop. But all and all I would have one in a heart beat.
The lift pump is not a big/expensive problem but the Bosch VP44 injector pump most assuredly is -- it's not a matter of IF it will fail it's just a matter of WHEN. That pump came on all '98 1/2 thru '01 ISB (24-valve) Cummins. 1st one failed on my truck just past 36,000 miles but the dealer replaced it under warranty anyway. That replacement died a few years back & the replacement for it didn't last 7 months. Recently I had to "bite the bullet" & spend $2150 to get the new upgraded Frieghtliner Sprinter van version from Blue Chip Diesel in New Hampshire -- you can get a rebuilt for about 1/2 that, but you're right back where you started, with a pump you KNOW will fail again sooner or later. The computer part of it is what dies & the upgraded version was made to solve the same problems in Frieghtliner vans (Mercedes V-6 engine -- Blue Chip reprograms them for the ISB Cummins & you get 22 more HP + 2-3 more mpg.
Co. owner says their warranty return rate on the new design is 2% and all for the same reason -- the Gov't. outlawed lead in solder & after 100's & 100's of heat cycles (heating up/cooling down), the solder joints inside the computer start to break loose. Fuel going thru the pump keeps it cool & when you shut the engine off it gets hotter for about 20 minutes. Also, the turbo is still spinning when you shut it off so one way to make things last longer is to let the engine idle for a couple minutes before shutdown, especially if you've been running on the highway for a length of time. Cool the injection pump down & keep clean oil going to the turbo bearing & those parts will last a LOT longer.
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