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Ramrod413 11-30-2012 09:40 PM

CV Axle removal question
Hello everyone. I have a question about removing a cv axle from the driverside of my 2007 1500 4x4. The passenger side cv axle came out with little fight. It was very snug to get back in but I was able to get it in and out without removing anything like the caliper, ball joints ect..
On the driverside it is much tighter and I do not seem to have enough clearance to remove the existing cv axle.
My question is can I pop out the upper ball joint only to get enough clearance to slide out the cv axle? Is there any hazrds to only popping out the upper and removing nothing else? I was planning on getting or renting a ball joint seperator tool tommorow morning, but want to make sure this would even work. It only need about an inch or less to remove the cv axle from the differential shaft.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Ramrod413 12-02-2012 11:28 AM

Ok so my sypmtoms were a shaking steering wheel at around 30mph and again around 60mph. Also when I turned a corner I would hear a catching or popping sound. All these pointed to a bad cv axle. The first one came off after a small fight, but the driverside did not have the clearance to remove it. Here ar the steps i took to removing it.

1. jack up the vehicle and support it on stands. I left the jack under the lower arm to support the tension of the spring.

2. Remove tire to remove the center cap so I could access the hub nut.

3.Re-install tire.

4.I did not have an impact gun so I have to loosen the hub with the truck on the ground. It took a 35mm socket, 18" 1/2" breaker bar with a long piece of rigid tubing over the handle for leverage. This worked well!

5. Took a prybar and used it to pop the cv axle off of the differential. there is a c ring that holds it from sliding off.

6. Jacked it back up after removing the hub nut and resupported it.

7.Removed the brake caliper and tied it out of the way and removed the abs sensor cable by removing the clips holding it. You must undo the connector clip as well which is plastic riveted into the inside of the wheel well.

8. I used a pitman arm puller to pop the upper ball joint. This worked really well. It was a $15 Harbour freight puller but worked fine. This gave me the room to slide out the old cv axle.

9.Repeat steps in reverse order.

So after 2 new cv axles installed I jump in the truck and give it a test run. Clunk, cluck, bang. Same popping and catching sounds when I turn or go in reverse. I didn't check to see if the steering wheel was still shaking because I did not want to drive it down the road and risk anymore damage. So I now have new cv axles but the same problems.
Does anyone have any idea what would cause a metal rattling sound, the steering wheel to shake and some popping noises when turning or backing up? I'm stuck!

ksdude 01-16-2014 04:41 AM

hub assembly bearing
Same problem I have. If you jack it off the ground and can push on your tire and it will give a little back and forth it's a bad wheel assembly bearing.

I can't get the one on my truck off yet it sits in a barn full of humidity.

You probably already got this fixed but if you see this msg let me know how you finally got the drivers side cv axle off mine has the same clearance issue.

I read your post again about the balljoint. Not sure if I want to tackle that or not. I just wanted it off for additional clearance to get the damn hub off. It's a long story lol.

AFMEDIC 01-25-2014 07:40 PM

how many miles are on your truck? Balls joints are cheap and easy and you already have it (or will have it) apart. If money isn't too much of a concern I'd go on and do them! I did upper and lower ball joints on both sides and it took about 3 hours

AFMEDIC 01-30-2014 01:53 PM

I just did both front wheel hubs yesterday on my truck. I had the shaky steering wheel, grinding nose, moaning when backing up and a brake vibration. Wheel bearings solved my problem that may be yours as well. Took about 4 hours to do both sides.

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