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-   -   1998 8.0 L V-10 will not start (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=132820)

Bandit 8 02-05-2013 06:09 PM

1998 8.0 L V-10 will not start
 
I have a 1998 v-10 with automatic tranny. The tranny went bad and I had a shop pull it out so I could repair it. After the shop re-installed the tranny and tried to fire up the engine it would not start. This engine ran the day the tranny was removed and I might say it ran very well. It has 168k on the clock.

I was told that what probably happened was the mechanic removing the tranny probably bumped the crankshaft positioning sensor knocking it out of adjustment. Which I might add makes all the sense in the world to me.

I know othing about these sensors so if there is some one that can tell me where it is and what to look for and hopefully how to check the adjustment on the sensor I sure would appreciate it.

It almost has to be something the mechanic done as this engine ran perfect before the tranny was pulled. We did check for fuel pressure and it squirted fuel all over the place off the pass side rail. But, when they checked for fire at the spark plugs there was none. Just to let you know where we`re currently at in checking the system.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thank you

Bandit 8

99 V10 02-06-2013 09:29 PM

Why won't the shop fix it. How did the fill the trans & converter if it won't start? The crank sensor is in the back of the engine. So it is very possible it has something to do with the trans installation.

Bandit 8 02-07-2013 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99 V10 (Post 1005051)
Why won't the shop fix it. How did the fill the trans & converter if it won't start? The crank sensor is in the back of the engine. So it is very possible it has something to do with the trans installation.

The converter was new ans we poured 3 gts of fluid in it before it was re-installed back in the transmission so it would not be dry whn the engine started. The rest of the fluid was put in through the tranny fill tube.

The reason the shop won`t fix it is because they do not have any engine skills at all as far as trouble shooting or repairing trouble codes or the sensors. The shop I used is a very small shop that does mainly labor type stuff that requires very little mechanical experience.

I think I have a snap-on scanner borrowed for tomorrow only so That may help in solving my problem. But thanks for the reply and I`ll check on the back of the block tomorrow for that sensor.

Thanks for your reply.
Bandit 8

99 V10 02-10-2013 01:40 AM

I believe you access the sensor through the bellhousng. I've heard it is not that easy to get to.

Bandit 8 02-10-2013 11:58 AM

We found the sensor behind the oil filter on the passenger side of the block about mid way. It`s actually no where near the bell housing.

But thanks any how.

Bandit 8

99 V10 02-10-2013 09:28 PM

That is good info, because I thought they were the same as the 5.9 gas rigs.
Thanks for posting that info.

hemiram03 03-10-2013 09:51 PM

Crankshaft sensor
 
OK, what fixed it? I have my SRT-10 that shut down on me and I got P0320 code, which is the crankshaft sensor. I tried a new sensor but no change, cranks but will not start.

Bandit 8 03-10-2013 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hemiram03 (Post 1035018)
OK, what fixed it? I have my SRT-10 that shut down on me and I got P0320 code, which is the crankshaft sensor. I tried a new sensor but no change, cranks but will not start.

Actually it is not fixed yet.

But I moved the truck to another shop who has a mechanic that stays up to date on the electrics and fuel systems in the late model vehicles.

His findings so far is.

The wires going to the transmission were bare due to fluids from the transmission deteriorating the insulation. When we pulled the tranny to re-build it we actually caused the wires to short out in turn blowing the computer. The shop working on the truck now found a piece of wire loom at a salvage yard to repair the wire loom and I actually oredered a new computer last Friday.

Computer cost retail was $552.00, my cost with his shop discount was actualy 427.88 including the sales tax.

The computer is due in some time this week. But as of yet the truck is still down. If this repairs the problem I`ll let you know.

Good luck with your truck. Iam an old time mechanic and know very little about these new systems. I also believe it is criminal that the factories have set these vehicles up to where the average fellow has to go to a shop with a ton of experience, computer programs and thousands of dollars worth of equipment so as to get a vehicle repaired.

I believe if we are going to have computer systems there should be something built in to where if a system is failing or has failed the actual problem is displayed on a monitor with instructions to the owner as to how to repair the problem along with what parts and tools needed. It absolutely sucks being at the mercy of some one else to repair your vehicle.

hemiram03 03-10-2013 11:41 PM

Crankshaft sensor
 
Yes it sucks. I have been fixing my own vehicles all my life. I buy factory sevice manuals for every vehicle I buy. But now days when trying to trouble shoot a problem the service manual requires the DRB scan tool to do the trouble shooting. And the dealers are the only ones with the tool. I've seen the Snap-on scanners but they will not do everything that the factory one does. Anyway I bought a 2010 Ram 2500 and I can't get a factory manual for it. I'm not happy.:smiledown:

Bandit 8 04-01-2013 09:33 PM

Update on the non start problem.

A piece of wire loom with good insulation and a new computer.

Computer $453.95
wire loom 70.00
labor 220.00

and varoooom. It now fires right up.

What actually happened is the tranny fluid ate the insulation off the wires where they plugged into the electrical component. One of the wires was a main lead to the computer and the one it shorted out with was a low volt wire. When the mechanic un-plugged the loom he of course as I or any one else would have took hold of the wires along with the plug in order to remove it. Well he inadvertently squeezed the wires together shorting out the main lead.

I had just finished rebuilding the 47 RE transmission a DIY job and my first ever. So I was eager to test drive the truck once it was running to test my transmission work.

So I paid the bill and fired it up and left the shop. The transmission shifted into all three gears with good solid shifts. I was smiling from ear to ear this being my first build.

But after about 3 city blocks I could tell the front end needed some work so I drove it over to the high school votec for them to have a look. They found that most of the front was worn out. The students were on spring break last week so I ordered all new parts for the front end. All tie rods - track bar- new gear box - all 4 ball joints - new u joints for the axles - new axle seals - new dampner shock/ steering shock - all 4 shocks. Two new rotors and new disk brake pads.

I priced the parts from a local warehouse and they quoted me $1957.00 for every thing.

I went to Rock auto.com and bought the parts for $1019.87 which included $148.00 freight, and $135.00 core chg which I will get back. And I also got a $30.00 pre paid visa card rebate on the Monroe shocks. I literally save 900 bucks shopping at Rock Auto.

The deal was so goo I used the savings today and bough 4 new wrangler tires which cost 801.00 including road hazard.

You want to see just how much mark up is on auto parts compare prices locally to Rock Auto. It`s unbelievable how much mark up the middle men put on parts.

All my parts were Moog, AC/DELCO, and the gear box was a Lars reman. all good top of the line parts that I have used for years.

I am now anxiously waiting one more time to finally get my hands on the truck so I can really give it a test drive.


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