What do y'all think about my putting my baby on the bottle?:4-dontknow:
research it, put all the saefty equpiment you can in it like a lean shut down sensor and take it easy on it. Nitrous is hard on motors but can be used quite safely and for an extended period
For time at the track I haven't found anything that kinds you in the butt like nitrous... well, unless you do turbos. You can pick up a basic kit for fairly cheap, or look around for a used kit. Our engines require a wet kit, and you need to prep the engine for nitrous, you can't just bolt it on and not expect something to happen. For safety, you should have an AFR gauge, colder plugs, purge, and a bottle heater or a NANO system. It doesn't matter what name brand you get, they're all good. ZEX, NOS, NitrousOutlet. I found the ZEX system to be the easiest to install, but it's limited if you want to upgrade to a higher flow system in the future.
I was running a 125 shot on 2 stage colder plugs and pulled 4 degrees of timing, thing ran like a raped ape and when we pulled the heads the cylinders and rings were in great shape. A 75 shot can be used with no issues and should have 1 stage colder plugs, 100 shot is 1 stage colder + 2 degrees of timing. Rule of thumb is 1 degree of timing for every 25hp. Now, you can leave the plugs in all the time, but it can hurt your fuel economy if you're running really cold plugs.
Oh, you MUST run high octane fuel when running nitrous, but that should go without saying since you're going for performance.
Grab a drink before starting this
The below is not my thoughts or feelings but found most of it I found useful
#1. No, N2O is no more harmful than a turbo or blower and in most cases its safer in my oppinion.
a. If its hot outside, N2O doesn't compress and dump MORE hot air inside.
b. Easier to tune in small levels
c. No plumbing to pop off or loose
d. No belts to go bananas on ya either
e. Fuel doesn't have to rise or fall liniar to boost levels......it dumps at the ratio you pilled / dialed in.
#2. No one makes the BEST system. You can shop around because actually its fairly simple. On our cars, the Zex controller seems to be the best choice. You can use the Zex controller with an NOS, Cold Fusion, Top Gun, Barry Gant, Nitrous Express, Compucar, or whatever.
#3. Most of us don't need to purge. Purging allows you to clear the line of GAS-N2O as apposed to liquid. The liquid is MUCH more dense and hits MUCH HARDER! Most of us already have a hard time launching as is, without spinning..........if you purge ,then launch hard, AND spray..........it's only good for black marks unless you can hook. Launch on the junk-gas alot of guys purge........this will allow the car to launch softer but you will come on harder and harder as the line gets the LIQUID stuff.
***** Note - Marty at KRC disagrees with me and feels everyone should purge no matter what. He feels the less dense gas will allow the cyl to become gasoline washed and is detramental. I disagree that this low volume amount of gas for this sub-second to 1 second time table is anything to be concerned with. You will have to choose what is best for you.
#4. Take that purge money and buy a good bottle heater..........make sure it has an automatic off. You can even wire it up to an LED light so you can see if its on. Bottles work best when they are between 900 - 1000 psi.
***** This is what a BOTTLE WARMER does; "What you have is a 10 or 20# bottle and that is liquid weight. Typically that is about 50-60% of the internal volume of the bottle. The top of the tank of pressurized gas, aka the pressure head.
N20 boils off at sub zero temps. In order to build a head pressure the gas/liquid pulls the heat it needs from the tank itself. By pulling this heat it chills the tank, when the tank is chilled it will not be able to build up the same amount of pressure. Your are getting a diminishing return. Dont forget there is a tube thats pulling liquid from the bottom of the tank like a big straw.
By adding a heater to the tank, you heat it up to 1100 or so PSI and the heat shuts off (if its an automatic warmer), when the pressure drops to below 1000psi it kicks back on. (manufacturers will vary)
The major reason for this is that if you head pressure is LOW its not pushing as much Liquid through the system, so your tune will change because your fuel ( if it is set up correctly ) is going to flow consistently, and the Nitrous is whats going to be the variable in the system." -Rob
(Heat makes N2O, and most other gases, increase in pressure. N2O, and most gases, will drop in temp as pressure rises. Once temp is low enough, the gas turns to liquid.)
#5. Mount the bottle so the valve points to the FRONT of the car. This way, when you launch, you don't uncover the pickup when it's low.
#6. Just like a blower and turbo; you MUST run premium and at least 1 ranger colder plugs. This helps control detonation.
**** Note - Stay away from high-octane "leaded" race gas. Its no good for cats and O2's. Another one thats myth is "aviation fuel" (I don't want to get too deep but this is bunk!) I believe you can buy 104 non-leaded at most tracks.
#7. These small foggers we put in front of the TB are good, but direct port just plain HITS HARDER! Direct port also is safer and can be tuned better for much larger shots. A small fogger infront of the TB can make 1 piston go lean and another to go fat.............your only as fast as your most BURNT piston!
**** Direct port clairification: Direct port are those systems that put a fogger in each cyl. thru bungs drilled in the intake.
#8. Thus far, only the 100 shot seems to be safe..............the 75 has been proven to be real safe!
#9. Our cam's LSA (the time BOTH valves are closed at the same time - measure in degrees of total rotation) is very very high. This means we build pressure up in these cyl like a mutha! A 100 shot on our cars in like a 150 - 175 in my old 5-ohs. So just becasue "Billy Bob" runs a 150 shot on his LS1 or 5-point-oh.......DON'T YOU DO IT!
Its like apples and oranges!
If you run a MUCH bigger cam with less LSA (thus bleeding off pressure) then it wouldn't be such an issue.
**** LSA clairification: 5.7 cam's have 117 degrees (117 LSA) while the 6.1 cam's have 116 degrees (116 LSA). Most 5-ohs or LT1's were running LSA's around 114 - 112. With the valves BOTH closed for only 112 degrees out of 360 degrees, you can see they bleed off pressure quite a bit more than we do.
#10. I see some guys putting the ZEX box under the hood......Not very stealthy. One cool cat I know runs the box under his dash/console. He taps into the TB-voltage from the peddle and NOT the TB.....same wire however. This is MUCH cleaner and makes the system hidden if ya want.
#11. If you like to monitor you engine with gauges............I suggest a (lettered in order of MOST IMPORTANT)
a. Fuel Pressure - A-#1 MOST IMPORTANT (low pressure = BOOM!)
b. Air / Fuel Ratio (yep, just like the boost guys)
c. Bottle Pressure (cherries always do this first when it SHOULD be last)
d. LED showing heater on / off
#12. Because the solenoids are activated by 12V.....you can get creative with your buttons AND safety switches.
a. Fuel Pressure shut off - Hobbs
b. Oil Pressure Shut off - Hobbs
c. 12v from relay-arming come from key switch (no 12V unless car on! I can't tell you how many times I heard of some dumbarse spraying with car off..........if you start the car with the intake full of N2O.......you will be picking up pieces of your hood and intake all over the neighbors front yard!)
d. TWO systems to arm the system.....ie. 1 spray button AND WOT voltage
a. bottles fit where spare tire USE TO go
b. SS-lines can be wrapped in vaccum line and solenoids can go under 5.7 cover
c. get creative with your buttons......I use the horn button for my spray-button.
d. Arming buttons/switch can go in the glove box, center console, or cup-holder
e. Fogger can go under the CAI...........
#13. N2O takes 33%, -20 degree oxygen and shoves it in the car........and you have heard the idea of an egine right? "More air in....more air out!" So please know this mod NEEDS exhaust to work to its full potential.
#14. Yes you can use N2O with a SuperChips; if detonation is an issue, make sure you run the 8-something tune to decrease timing but nothing can replace colder plugs and high octane!
#15. Common names for nitrous oxide are: N2O, dope, juice, the bottle, giggle gas, the squeeze, nitrous, or the gas. But at no time should you call this generic chemical NOS...........NOS is a company. Just like General Electric goes by G - E, Nitrous Oxide Systems goes by N - O - S. If you goto the track and you are calling it nos "pronounced nous"........you may be labeled a noob, geek, turd-ball, looser, dummy, youngster, poser, a bench racer, a ricer, or a wanna-be.
I tell you this as a friend and concerned citizen of LXville, USA.
#16. For those that wanna get advanced on me here, you can run stages of spray........Jacobs use to make a real neat controller that would bring in N2O gradual as you dialed in. It could bring in a 2nd system after so many seconds after arming the first one. It could be used to turn off other 12V relays if so desired........real neat.
I know NOS has something like it and most likely the Jacobs system still is out there with 10 others just like it.
Using a controller will help a fella control wheel spin, keep car under control, and so on.
IE. A guy may want to hit a 75 shot (non-purged) comming out of the hole........helps his 60' times. He does this with a fogger in FRONT of the TB. After 3 seconds, it automaticly arms his second system which sprays a direct port, 100 shot (purged) at the 120 ft line.
You could play around with a setup like this to dial it in and see what makes the car faster yet controlable and straight.
**** Note - A big shot like in the above example would be fine with forged pistons, modded cam specs, ring gap spec., modded fuel delivery, and such.
#17. Another fancy detail -
Back in the days when I had a turbo car, EVERYONE use to use a very small shot of dope to help cool (freeze) the inlet charge of the compressed air we were bringing in. We would put the fogger AFTER the inner-cooler but BEFORE the TB. So 190 degree, compressed air would be cooled to 140 degrees, then mixed again with N2O @ -20 degrees and you would end up with an inlet temp of like 70 degrees! (not exact numbers - but you get the point)
You would spray it (unlike the movies) right at launch so it would get the car moving and make up for turbo-lag. Once you launched, it would automaticly spool up to full boost! Once you boosted up and were moving, you would not spray again thus keeping cyl pressure down and your head gaskets on.
If someone ever gets a turbo released for our cars, a small 25 - 50 shot for launching the car works EXTREMELY good to get our fat-arsed cars moving and helping you to get that beast under full-spool.
#18. Accessories............you can spend some stupid money on dope just like you can with anything else. I will try and explain different crap you can buy to go with your set-up.
a. Purge - To rid the line of less dense and softer hitting N2O-gas. Line will only have N2O liquid once you purge.
b. Warmer - To help use up all the N2O in the bottle. A warmer will aid you in keeping the bottle between 900- 1000 psi.
c. Automatic Warmer - A fancy version of the above BUT it will add heat or turn off to keep your pressure at that 900 - 1000psi sweet-spot
d. Gauges - Covered already........Fuel Pressure is the MOST important
e. Billet Bottle Holders - Man O Man.....I've seen some fancy bottle brackets. Some have quick disconnects, some allow for 2 x 10lb bottles, some are anodized colors, and some have etching. Its just bling bling......
f. Y - Distribution Blocks - Are for guys that want to run 2 bottles but with 1 line to the solenoid. This will ensure you don't have too much volume drop as you use the N2O. Its fairly embarressing when you goto spray and there is nothing in the bottle....ooooooooppppps! Two bottles ensure you don't let this happen.
g. Electric Valve Openers - This is for the guy that likes at keep the fact he has spray a TOTAL secret. He flips a switch and his bottle opens up automaticly.......no getting out of the car, opening the trunk, and giving yourself away. (mostly used by street racers)
h. Various Bottle Sizes - The common size for a bottle is 10 lbs BUT you can buy 15lb, 20lb, and little 2.5 pounders known as Sneaky Petes (NOS). These are used by motorcycle, snowmobile, and ATV riders.
i. Hobbs Switches - Little electric switches that will kill 12V to your nitrous system if they read below pre-set perameters. Most Hobbs switches are run to fuel and oil........IE. A fuel Hobbs switch can turn off your nitrous if fuel pressure drops below 35 psi or can cut ignition if oil pressure drop below 20 psi.
j. Nitrous Controllers - I spoke about these before. I am not up an all the new stuff out so you'll have to dig deeper; BUT, I can tell you what they generally have had over the last 15 years. Most will have timers (on / off), RPM modules (on / off), % of total amount of spray, on / off for other 12V switches and so on. Different companies will offer different doo-dads on their controllers but should be a MUST if you are running multiple stages as we discussed earlier.
k. Micro Switch - Often used to denote when the TB was at WOT. When the leaver hit the switch, it would tell the relay and it would give the solenoid 12V IF and ONLY IF you were also holding down your "button" too.
l. TB Volt Switch - This is how Zex does it. You program in how many volts are going to your TB when you go WOT. A little green light comes on when the Zex controller is programmed by you. Now when it sees that many volts again AND you are pressing the button, it will spray.
Damned good info right there ^^
That's a great read!!!! Good info!!! rep's
This is what im looking for!!! Still having a drivable truck that can smoke some azz
I have no interest in NOS and that was an interesting read. very informative!
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