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-   -   EBC 3GD Brake Rotors - "Caveat Emptor" (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=143576)

hemirae 05-29-2013 05:09 PM

EBC 3GD Brake Rotors - "Caveat Emptor"
 
2 Attachment(s)
In less than a week at 150 miles after install (front and rear with EBC 7000/6000 green pads)

CdnoilRAM 05-29-2013 09:12 PM

And?

Rotors rust... all of them, they are bare steel and when exposed to the elements form surface corrosion. Stock rotors when sitting for 3 weeks in our winters built up a nice layer that my first brake would clean off. Notice how clean the clamping surface is? That's what matters.

Dimpled rotors don't do sh!t for braking performance (I run the same pads/rotors you do, so don't get in a bunch) they are for appearance only, and in your case, you have some corrosion in yours. Cali is a big place, but I would assume you live in a humid area for it to occur that quickly, and since you have nice pockets in the rotors that don't get cleaned out by the pads, you'll have that for a long while, but it's nothing detrimental to the rotor's performance.

These are still a great upgrade over stock, and even on my last truck they performed amazingly well for stopping my big 22s through auto-cross tracks.

huntergreen 07-04-2013 03:51 PM

CDNoilram, how long do these pads last? why the green and not yellow pads? tks

CdnoilRAM 07-04-2013 09:17 PM

I had mine on for over 2 years with a many auto-X, strip, and aggressive mountain road days trying to stop heavy 22" wheels, and when they carted my truck away to the scrap yard the pads still had 50% left. It's important to use the 7000 series on the fronts as they're a harder compound compared to the 6000 and will last longer with our front-biased braking.

The reason I prefer the greenstuff pads can be summed up in two words: brake dust. The YS pads are rated at OEM dust levels, and though they are said to be the best performance upgrade I'm also very aware of the reduction in brake dust with the GS pads which means I don't have to clean my wheels and clay bar as regularly.

GTyankee 07-04-2013 09:40 PM

i have a 2009 SLT w/ 85,000 miles on the brakes
i am thinking about getting my brakes checked out before i drive across the USA twice, around 6,000 + miles, later this month

Maybe there is a lot of meat on the pads still, but i want to make sure

when i do get them changed, i would like to get pads that don't cause a lot of dust

i always thought that the rotor holes & slots were for a quicker cool down & less warpage

CdnoilRAM 07-04-2013 10:19 PM

The original intent of drilled/slotted rotors was never to provide additional cooling, it was to give the gasses created by the pads at high temps a place to go and reduce the brake fade issues with older pad materials. With the modern pads there is no issue with off-gassing in heavy braking situations unless you're doing something super demanding like road course racing.

Drilled/slotted rotors are actually more prone to warping when compared to a standard solid rotor and they can not be machined like a smooth rotor can, so once they're warped that's it. Cross-drilled rotors had cracking problems around the holes because the hole created a high concentration of heat that could not be dissipated and the rotor would try to expand but the hole could not contract thus creating a high stress point. Modern cross-drilled rotors have a lesser issue with this just based on new alloys being utilized.

The only way to increase rotor cooling is to increase the rotor's surface and body area so there's more rotor material to absorb and dissipate heat. The addition of cooling tracts BETWEEN the rotor faces allows the best way to prevent heat soak of the material by cooling the rotor body from the inside.


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