How to change the hub assembly with pics and tool list.
My left hub bearing (2001 2500 4x4) went bad and then the ABS failed. It started with a warning I ignored (my speedometer would work off and on and then stopped) and ended with the wheel locking down tight and I forced it home howling like a wolf. I swapped the left side out in a rush and decided to go ahead and do the right side today and take some pics to see if it would help anyone. I am sure there may be better methods but this worked fine for me with the tools I had.
The tools needed:
Hammer, Impact, PB Blaster, grease, 1 1/16 socket ($8 @ Tractor Supply and for a $4 3/4" to 1/2" adapter), 5/8 12pt socket, 9/16 12pt socket, torque wrench, c-clamp, wire cutters, needle nose, T45 Torx socket, wire brush and a few tasty beverages.
Jack the truck up and supported it with a stand.
Soak the hub bolt in pb blaster, use the needle nose to straighten out the cotter key and the wire dykes to leverage the key out. I left the tire on the ground some in case I needed re-enforcements (cheater pipe) but the bolt came off after about a minute with the impact and 1 11/16, remove the wheel and the nut and washer.
Remove the ABS line from all the mounting locations and unplug and set to the side.
A ratchet and T45 torx socket removed the two brake caliper bolts get the caliper off and tie (zip ties) to hold it out of the way and not stress the line.
Remove the two bolts holding the brake bracket on and set aside.
Soak all 4 hub assembly bolts in PB blaster and take a beverage break. Hit the axle to break it loose from the hub. Turn the wheel all the way to the left and remove two of the hub assembly bolts from the rear of the hub with the impact, turn the wheel all the way to the right and repeat and then center the wheel again. Take the hammer and whack the hub from the rear moving all around and it will work it's way out, be careful to not pull the axle out. Set the brake shield and hub assembly to the side and have another beverage break, you need it after role playing as Thor.
Clean the surface area of all that grime and mud.
Put a thin film of grease on the axle, start the hub bolt to hold in place, line up the brake shield and 4 bolt holes and install the bolts from the rear. Tighten evenly until the assembly is flush and torque the 4 bolts to 149 ft. lbs. Run the hub bolt snug with the impact.
Install the caliper mount and torque the 2 bolts to 250 ft. lbs. Remove the brake cap from the master cylinder, use the c-clamp the slowly compress the caliper. Install the caliper and torque the 2 bolts to 24 ft. lbs. Route and fasten the ABS line. Install the wheel, and barley place the tire on the ground. Torque the axle nut to 150 ft. lbs. then raise the tire and spin 10 times and torque the nut to 263 ft. lbs. Install the cotter key.
**IMPORTANT** Before you drive, pump the brakes up until the caliper pistons are extended and you will probably need to pump it up a few time driving slow.
I found many different torques specs that range from years, to HD and so on but used what I thought was right for my truck (2001 2500 4x4 gas) but if anyone finds the specs are wrong please tell me and I will correct it. I hope this helps someone.
Good write up. Changing the hubs on these trucks is pretty easy. Only issue I had with mine was the hubs were seized onto the spindle and required some persuasion. Rep points for ya
I just read I goofed and put 1 1/16 socket instead of 1 11/16 socket but don't know how to edit it, I also realized them are some HUGE pics :Wow1: lol.
Agreed. good write up and detail!
So your balljoints are good? I changed mine out the same time as unit bearings. But hey, if they are still good, then run em!
I noticed your lower control arm is abused like mine once were. lol :smileup:
I did not check them I am embarrassed to say... I did not have the money right now to replace them but I did notice all the grease boots were cracked and it is on my todo list.
I agree with the others. It is an outstanding write-up.
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