So I have been seeing where a lot of people on here suggest getting a torque converter, and I have not the slightest idea as to what they are good for? :4-dontknow: What it does, is it good for your transmission, easy to install? Any help appreciated
You already have one, but it has a 2200 stall speed,
installing a higher stall, like a 2800-3000 stall will have you taking off closer to your engines peak torque values.
The net effect is like popping the clutch on a standard with the revs much higher...Way better launch as opposed to bogging off the line at 2200 rpm and waiting until you get into the powerband before the truck actually starts to accelerate.
So let me see if I have this right, basically a new torque converter is going to help the truck launch quicker and at higher rpms. Wouldn't that be rougher on the transmission?
Not at just 600-800 rpm over stock,
It's a fluid coupling so the transfer of power is still gradually applied.
It's all about getting to the sweet spot sooner.
What is a good brand to go with? And hoping this is going to be a DIY job so what am I looking forward to?
Do you tow a trailer often?
if so...Chris at Circle D will fix you up with a 2600 stall triple disc
....but it aint cheap $1k https://www.circledspecialties.com/
If not a work truck, talk to Andre at Edge about a Street Edge 2800-3000 ...$500 http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/
He needs to know all your trucks specs,
year, make, motor, trans, wheel/tire size, diff gear ratio
BTW...if you have a 2WD and an open rear diff, you WILL have traction issues (one -wheel-peel)
there's an actual form on the site here: http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/...products_id=43
Fill out as much as you can, let the man know how you use your truck and what you're trying to accomplish and he will recommend a stall speed and STR (stall to torque ratio) to get you want you want.
I asked to get my 60' times on my weekend warrior down 3-4 tenths and he delivered.
She's a rocket off the line for a 5200 pound 4x4
install may run you $500 but shop around, it books for 6.5 hours on my 4x4 Ram.
Not necessarily a DIY driveway job unless you know someone who's done it before that can help.
You have to drop the exhaust, crossbar, drive shaft(s) and transfercase if you have one, and the trans to get the TC out.
Pre-filling the fluid in the new TC is critical before installing it,
and making sure it clicks twice as you turn it onto the transmission input shaft is vital as well.
Then the fluid level has to be checked several times before you can drive it. cold, then hot and off, then running.
Here are the procedures for trans removal :
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle
3. Remove any necessary skid plates
4. Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
5. Remove the rear propeller shaft
6. Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary.
7. Remove the engine (1) to transmission (3) structural dust cover (2).
8. Remove the exhaust support bracket from the rear of the transmission.
9. Disconnect and lower or remove any necessary exhaust components.
10. Remove the starter motor.
11. Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
12. Disengage the output speed sensor connector from the output speed sensor
13. Disengage the input speed sensor connector from the input speed sensor
14. Disengage the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly connector from the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly
15. Disengage the line pressure sensor connector from the line pressure sensor
16. Disconnect gearshift cable (1) from transmission manual valve lever
17. Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.
18. Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
19. Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
20. Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember.
21. Remove transfer case, if necessary.
22. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at transmission fittings and clips.
NOTE: When disconnecting the transmission oil cooler lines, it is necessary to replace the line clip that is located on the oil pan stud. The retention force of the clip is severely degraded upon removal.
23. Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
24. Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
25. Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
26. Lower transmission (2) and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
27. To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission
Here are the steps for tc removal:
1. Remove transmission and torque converter from vehicle.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the converter housing end of the transmission.
CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the lifting device or work surface, the center of gravity of the transmission will shift when the torque converter is removed creating an unstable condition. The torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution when separating the torque converter from the transmission.
3. Pull the torque converter forward until the center hub clears the oil pump seal.
4. Separate the torque converter from the transmission.
I'm sure there are some shortcuts but this is a copy and past from the Dodge Service Manual.
I appreciate all the help, very informative, will be a future upgrade, maybe not near future, but one of these days haha
Thanks for the info black ram! But does changing the converter effect your top end? Like if you want to walk someone from 70mph+?
70mph roll LOL!
If you're talking about illegally racing above a posted speed limit, sorry not my thing.
1/4 mile Track only...safe and legal or GTFO.
If you're on a closed circuit sanctioned event though, you'll want some type of forced induction like a turbo, supercharger or nitrous. Not a torque converter.
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