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dacv01 07-19-2013 07:18 PM

brake replacement
I am going to be replacing the front pads, rotors, one caliper, and master brake cylinder. Can i have a walk through that will help me complete the job with out too much difficulty? Thanks. Have all pads, rotors, master cylinder and caliper

Screamintrashcan 07-21-2013 10:49 AM

Well, for one, I'd probably r2 both calipers & not just one, if one is seized the other one isn't far behind. Buy a big c clamp (6") if you're not replacing the one, and leaving the pad in, that's against the piston, push it back, slowly with the c clamp. pay attention to which pad went in each position, you will generally be paying particular attention to where the little tab went that is attached to one end of each pad, that's the wear indicator, makes a squeally noise when your pads are wearing thin. I personally, bend them back so they never make that horrible noise, but that's just me. bench bleed your master cylinder level, in a vise, never compress the rod simply to compress it. When you put your new caliper on, and pads & rotors are on, open the bleeder nut up and leave it open til brake fluid comes out. Before driving away, start your eng and depress the brake pedal several times until the pads and rotors are set for driving, your first hit the pedal will in all likelihood, sink to the floor. If you miss this step, you may be in for quite a surprise at the bottom of your driveway!

Warlock III 07-21-2013 01:08 PM

Ditto ^

If you don't have a "c" clamp you can put a pry bar between the pad and rotor and leverage it back slowly to compress the caliper.

If you drop the pads or they get mixed up, the brake sensor tab always goes to the front of the vehicle (on the back it would fold under after making contact)

If the master cylinder comes with a bleeder kit, place the master level either in a vice, or get a piece of 1x2 or such and place it as level as you can get it on the floor (against something sturdy). Screw in the bleeder hoses and bend them back into the reservoir. Depress the brake rod slowly and firmly until no air escapes.

Leave the hoses on it and submerged.

When you mount the master cyl have a helper at hand and use audible communication:

You: Press the pedal and hold it.
Helper: It's down and holding.
You: Let the pedal up.
Helper: It's up.

Once the master is mounted start the lines. Have the helper press the pedal down and hold it. NOW tighten the lines. That way it sucks out the air that entered the lines at the top and releases it through the reservoir. Instead of bleeding the entire system (if the fluid is clean it makes it a lot faster and cleaner).

When you mount the caliper make sure you use the new copper washers and put one on each side of the hose block. If you don't have a helper at this point it can be done alone. Fill the system and leave the bleeder slightly cracked. Place a small hose on the bleeder and put the other end in a small container of brake fluid making sure the end is below the level of fluid. Depress the pedal a few times. The fluid will go into the container, the air will escape, and it will suck fluid back in instead of air.

Make sure you bleed the calipers one more time because if you have any air in them, about 2/3 miles down the road the caliper will compress and not release and you'll be stuck walking back to get a wrench to open the bleeder again.

Any questions, post up, and STC or myself will probably see it. the other caliper. It just makes sense. If it has a hot spot in it, your pedal will pulse and you'll be doing it before the end of the day, and hating every second of it. (I understand it may not be financially feasible but it's cheaper than a tow and going back to get another caliper).

dacv01 07-21-2013 01:53 PM

thanks for the help, i really appreciate it. it helped alot, although a bolt on the caliper was broken so that took a little effort to get it off. other than that everything else is running strong. i am making a new post, hopefully you will see it and have an answer for me.

jabba974 07-25-2013 10:27 PM

Don't forget to take the cap off the M/C before you compress the calipers...Also, I would suggest buying a repair manual...Like Haynes...Its worth the $20!

Gen1dak 07-26-2013 01:52 PM

But leave the MC cap loosely on top of the cylinder. Otherwise you could spray brake fluid all over some painted surfaces when you compress the calipers.

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