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-   -   Spark plug problem need help ASAP! (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=149066)

MoldyTaco 07-31-2013 09:21 PM

Spark plug problem need help ASAP!
 
I decided to change my spark plugs in my 2005 Ram 1500 4.7 L. I got 7 out of 8 of them replaced no problem. The last plug on the rear passenger side is giving me some problems. I got the coil pack out no problem. I got the socket in there and pretty sure I got it broke loose. I took the ratchet off and started loosing by hand until it felt loose enough to pull out, however the plug didn't come out. So I tried turning it again and tried to pull it out again and same thing it stayed in there. I am pretty sure that it is completely loose however the plug won't come out. I tried inserting the coil pack again and it went in fine just like it should however when I removed it the plug stayed in there. Since it is at the back of the motor it is impossible to see anything. I used a mirror and flashlight to look at the plug and nothing appears to be damaged at least that I can see. I was able to get my finger in there and the plug feels snug. So it leads me to believe that the plug is not completely loose. The socket and extension turn easily, so I am thinking that the top of the plug is bottoming out on the extension through the socket. So I guess my question is has anyone had this problem and if so what did you do to fix it? Also if anyone has any ideas that would be appreciated. I need to get this finished tonight so I can go to work tomorrow.

MoldyTaco 08-01-2013 02:23 AM

OK never mind everyone, I found the problem. Part of the ceramic portion broke off and wouldn't allow the socket to get deep enough. But it finally broke into smaller pieces, then I could remove the plug. I tried to get the pieces out before removing the plug, but I think some small pieces fell into the engine. I hope they don't cause any problems.

What do you guys think? Will they cause any major problems?

I hope they will probably break into some smaller pieces and get blown out of the exhaust. I know that there was at least one piece it there because when I first started it up I heard something rattling around similar to a lifter tapping but it when away almost immediately and now it runs better then it did before changing the plugs.

However, I discovered another problem the check engine light is now on. Could this be because I failed to disconnect the negative battery cable? Or could the problem be something else entirely?

Asur 08-01-2013 08:47 AM

The best way to find out whats up is to get the code for the engine light. Many parts shops will read your error code free if you don't have a code reader. I would start there, it could be just a bad coil, maybe you hit a wire somewhere, could be many things. Unpluge your battery for 15 min, then plug back up, see if the code goes and if it comes back.

MoldyTaco 08-01-2013 02:12 PM

Ok pulled the codes and actually only got one code P0113. Which from research tells me that it is Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage. I think I unplugged it to take the TB cover off(if that is the same thing) and I reconnected. I have two questions now.

1. How can the voltage increase?

2. Could this cause a rough idle? Which started this morning.

Asur 08-01-2013 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoldyTaco (Post 1165150)
Ok pulled the codes and actually only got one code P0113. Which from research tells me that it is Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage. I think I unplugged it to take the TB cover off(if that is the same thing) and I reconnected. I have two questions now.

1. How can the voltage increase?

The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the temperature of the air entering the engine. The PCM supplies a 5 volt reference voltage to the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. The IAT is a thermistor that varies resistance based on temperature. As the temperature increases, resistance decreases. Low temperature results in a high signal voltage. When the PCM sees a signal voltage higher than 5 volts, it sets this P0113 check engine light code.

2. Could this cause a rough idle? Which started this morning.

yes it could, if your IAT sensor is not working or a connection to the unit is faulty the PCM will not be able to read the right temperature of the incoming air, hence it cannot provide the engine with the right fuel air mixture giving you a rough idle.

was it doing this prior to your changing the spark plugs?

MoldyTaco 08-01-2013 02:35 PM

No it was running great before changing the plugs. I only changed the plugs because its at 55000 miles and I am pretty sure they have never been changed. Now I am wishing I didn't change them, even though they needed to be done.

Also what is your thought about pieces of the plug falling into the motor. Is it something that I should be really worried about?

Asur 08-01-2013 03:20 PM

Not trying to scar you or anything but if the pieces where big enough to do damage the damage is already done, by now the pieces are pulverized and out the valves or caught between the compression ring and cylinder wall. A micro cam might be a way to look in and check, maybe you where lucky and the pieces flew out the second the valve opened and is now sitting at the catalytic converter, from here its hard to say.

My next question is what spark plugs have you used, I keep reading all over the place to only use the OEM spark plugs on these engines as other makes just never seem to work well. Again I could be wrong, you can check the manual of the truck it should tell you what part number to get. Apart from that, there is not much I can tell you without probing the engine and doing more research on your year engine. Myself before turning over the engine I would of rigged a small tube on a vacuum and sucked everything out of the affected cylinder then check with a micro camera if anything was left in there.

Also, you can test your AIT sensor and rule that out as an issue. it might be defective

MoldyTaco 08-01-2013 03:54 PM

I used the OEM spark plus Champion CHA 439. I read about which plugs to use on here before purchasing.

When I noticed that plug was broken (before I removed it) I got a mirror and flashlight out and used needle nosed pillars to get as many of the pieces out that I could. There was only a few pieces I couldn't get that appeared to be about the size a pencil lead tip. I am hoping that they flew out immediately.

I just went out and unplugged the sensor and checked the wires; everything appears to be fine. I plugged it back in and started the truck and it started up fine and idles perfect and revs perfect. In fact it seems to be better than before I changed the plugs. However, the light is still on so I disconnect the negative cable and will reconnect after 30 minutes or so. I read that is how to reset the PCM.

Quote:

Also, you can test your AIT sensor and rule that out as an issue. it might be defective
How do you do this? Sorry to ask stupid questions, I feel am pretty mechanically inclined but I am new to Dodge repair. Prior to this truck the newest car I owned was an 1986 Ford Ranger.

MoldyTaco 08-01-2013 04:41 PM

OK, I got the negative cable hooked back up and check engine light is off and no codes. The idle is perfectly stable at about 600 RPM's and it revs perfectly. I believe that it is running better than it did before changing the plugs. I haven't done a road test yet, but I will in about an hour or so. I will post how it goes. Thank you for your help.

Asur 08-01-2013 05:14 PM

No problem, you probably just had a bad connection on your AIT sensor, keep you eye on it but if you only had pencil tip pieces they probably blew out the valve on BDC and you will be fine, as for testing the AIT Sensor, check out youtube they have a few good video's on testing if the AIT is working for not, usually you can read the 5volts, and as the temperature goes up the voltage will go down. I would have to check the proper procedure on the RAM, if you need it, PM me and I will get you what I have in my manuals for the RAM


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