Door lock`s are dead
Hello everyone, first of all i`ll must ask for forgiveness about my poor english, i`ll try to make myself clear.:shy:
So my problem - door locks... dead. Completely. There is a light in every door switch but the lock`s won`t work. The knob it self moves and that`s the only way to lock/unlock this damn thing. There is no relay sound, no horn making noise, no light`s to blink, nothing. I bought this truck used about three years ago now and those locks have never worked. And yes, i have been battleing with these all this time.:i_rolleyes: So i have fixed the broken wires from the rear door`s, changed both front door lock switches, i have brand new FCM and fusebox. They fixed my lost low beams but i was hope that those parts would fix these locks too but no. I have keyless entry too but it`s all the same, no life. Changed the batterys too but makes no difference. I have been useing hundreds of hours spinning around in the internet and found tons of topics like this but allmost all of them the main problem is one or two doors or stuff like that. Not the whole system dead. So anyone got any ideas what to do next? If we think that all of those lock actuators has died, shouldn`t it still need to sound the horn or blink the light`s? All relays will probably be in the fusebox right? They are new `cos the hole box is new but still no sound when im trying to do something. Or should i flash my truck`s brains? Would it work? When i put in the new FCM-fusebox combo it fixed my low beams, automatic driver side window function and my windshield wiper`s.. They were crazy all so... and infact, im gonna be too soon and it may not be fixable.:4-dontknow:Or is the instrument cluster done? It sounds like that it may not be very cheap...:mad:
If anyone has an idea please tell me.:smiley_thumbs_up: And yet again, sorry for my bad english and thanks to everyone in advance!!!:smileup:
I'm thinking the truck isn't recognizing your fob. Look up how to program the fob to the truck and see if that helps. If not, we'll go from there.
I don't think its the FOB since it doesn't sound like the work with the lock or unlock button on the doors either.
You have the same year truck as mine and they have been known to have this kind of problem. Here is a link to a forum that may have more answers. It won't let me post a link but it the cunninsforum.
A couple of other thoughts. Try running a hot wire to one of the lock buttons or the actuator itself. If this makes it work, it might be a broken wire somewhere. Breaks in the door jamb wiring could be hard to find. To do this I often used a spare battery and some jumper wires, or some jumper cables and some jumper wires. In other words wire up the switch or a door actuator directly to the hot side of a 12v battery.
Also I'm not sure what the computer in the truck controls. I'm not even sure what its called, the ECU. It will control certain things but I'm not sure what.
Good luck and you did well with your english.
I try to program my fob by using the instructions in my owner`s manual but it didn`t chime. My friend had same type of problem with rear door`s and he said that those wires in the rubber boot that goes from body to door needs to pull quite hard to find any broken wire. It seems that when they bend over and over again the wires break at first and when the time goes on it will break the wirecord as well. Id like to replace both rear door wiring since they look quite bad now... But i`ll try that hotwire thing tomorrow.:smileup:
Damn, your right dodge man. Reckon I didn't read or process that first part. Ok then, let me switch gears and scratch for a minute. I'm guessing there's module for the keyless entry function, and I'm wondering if that goes bad if it will effect the entire locking system. Swoop, you might want to take a look at that angle and see if the keyless entry system affects the entire system if it goes out.
Okay, i have done some more research and wondering around with my multimeter. I opened up driver side lock switch panel and measured it and one of the pins has aprox. 12 volts coming as it should. Now on the passenger side, there is three pins and one of them has voltage at all times. 1v... Seems to me that it may not be quite enough.:i_rolleyes: I have Haynes repair manual and i try to look those lock wiring diagrams but colours aren`t the same on the manual and my truck. However if i understand correctly the power comes from the fusebox, goes to the passenger side switch, then continues instrument cluster and after that goes driver side door and rear doors. So if the "main brains" are in the cluster and it gets 1v it can`t operate any doors... At least i don`t think it could... In the other hand, this does`t explain why there is power in driver side mut no function.:4-dontknow:
While i was laying on the floor, middle of wires and pedals i looked up at cluster in case i might see something out of the ordinary. I noticed one empty slot in the cluster. Does it supposed to be empty or is there missing something, like keyless entry receiver? Heres a pic.
And thanks again!!:smiley_thumbs_up:
About that empty slot behind the instrument cluster... Earlier today i was looking new keyless entry receiver behind that cluster and found this kind of picture.
Now if you look at the plug and the empty slot in my cluster, in my eye, it looks pretty much the same...? So could it be possible that the receiver has failed and someone has taken it away completely?
Here`s the wiring diagram also. I was thinking that since the power goes to passenger side first and then cluster and there it goes each door separetely but driver side is only one that has that 12v coming. So is it possible that the receiver is located middle of the driver door module and cylinder lock switch-driver and that way blocking the power from going to other doors?
A few questions for clarification:
1) Did you check for voltage at the driver's side switch or at the driver's side actuator? The switch sends a signal which triggers the instrument cluster. The IC then activates drivers that are internal on the IC that actuate the locks.
B) You said the driver's side is getting 12V - you said approx. 12V, is it more or less? Very important - and is it getting this 12V constantly or only when you try to lock/unlock the doors?
III) You said the passenger switch gets a constant 1V. Does that change when you try to lock/unlock the doors?
Here's an interesting tidbit I found out about our trucks. I love this 'cause I am learning too:
The door locks on a 2002-2008 ram truck are solely controlled by the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster has an integral body control module making it a cabin compartment node. The power distribution center (or Integrated Power Module) is under the hood along with the power control module. The only thing the PCM or PDC does (called the IPM on 02 and newer trucks) is this. When your vehicle speed reaches 15 mph the cluster looks at TPS position. It does this through the PCI bus system that the module communicate on. Vehicle speed is broadcast over the bus for all modules to pick up. If TPS is under 15% the CCN will lock the doors automatically. There is no power door lock relay. There is no speed sensor that makes a relay work. They are controlled by a low side driver from the CCN, not a relay.
This is very interesting because I always thought there was a relay. So, my next question is: Do the doors lock when you reach 15 mph?
I'm also wondering, since this is now a pretty simple system, if you A) have a bad cluster, 2) a broken, or partially broken, wire that allows 12V to pass but not enough amps and, lastly, my original thought of that being the receiver for the keyless entry is gone, lost power or on the fritz. Crap, there are two more possibilities, and they are the BCM and the CCN, and have either one of those decided to get stuck in stupid?
OY! Simple system, but complicated to troubleshoot.
I checked the voltage at the driver side switchs. I didn`t test that does it chance if i try to lock my doors. Im guessing that it doesn`t chance but im gonna try that today as soon as i get home.
The voltage at driver side is 11.98 - 12.03 but it might be my multimeter too that makes that difference. It`s getting that constantly.
My doors will not lock when i drive 15mph or more. They only lock/unlock at door knobs by hand.
I guess that im gonna order a new transmitter because here they want a fortune for the old used one. I mean it comes a hundred`s of dollars cheaper to order a new one out there at the USA than get old one`s here. Example, i got that brand new fusebox from ebay and it cost 400$. Used 10 years old fusebox here cost 800€ whitch is little over a 1000$. Yea i know, legal robbing.:4-dontknow:
Okay, little update from here.
Lock`s are still dead, i have a new receiver and two new transmitters. And i also have new problem.:smileup: Pictures will tell.
The instrument cluster should look like this.
And my instrument cluster looks like this.
So im missing that black plug with six pins where i should connect my receiver.:Angry: Does anyone has any idea where i might get one or do i just have to hunt down used cluster and replace it compeletely? The plug connects in those two holes. Actually there is a third one also but it doesn`t show in the last foto. This truck drives me crazy before these locks are working.
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