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-   -   2001 Dodge Ram 5.9 Magnum Idle Issue (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=156691)

mike123456 10-25-2013 03:20 PM

2001 Dodge Ram 5.9 Magnum Idle Issue
 
Hello all, ive been trying to figure out this problem for awhile, did tons of research and still cant track it down, so i turn to the help of experts from this forum.

This may be long but the more details i provide the better results i get i hope:)

2001 Dodge Ram 5.9 L Magnum, Sent my motor out to Carolina Machine Engines, And they rebuilt my motor and put in a bigger cam or RV Cam. According to them no modifications to the ECM need to be made.
From there website

"CAROLINA MACHINE ENGINES produces a HIGH TORQUE version of most engines. These engines are listed in our price list along with our stock engines and will have a "T" at the end of the part number. They receive a TORQUE type camshaft sometimes called a "RV" cam. Also we perform several other operations to enhance power.
Although these engines produce more torque and horsepower, they still retain a SMOOTH IDLE and require no changes to your vehicle. They are ideal for towing and produce up to 10% more horsepower than the original engine, yet there is no change in the warranty.As a rule these engines will not affect emissions, but emissions should be verified in certain states.If you don't see the HIGH TORQUE engine you want in our price list, please call, fax or email us for more information.

So here are the symptoms and steps ive taken,

Truck starts fine and idles around 900-1200 during warmup, than 5 min or so later, idle drops down to around 500-600 RMPs, when i drive it, its seems fine, although power does not seem to be there. Pull up to stop light and it idles really low as if its gonna die, give it some juice its fine.

No Codes or MIL lights either,

Things ive done and changed.

Put in hughs plenum kit, followed torque specs to the T.
Cleaned Throttle body with Throttle Body Cleaner, wasnt to dirty to begin with.

Put in new TPS sensor, did votage test and is within specs from curb idle to WOT. So i dont think thats my problem.

Performed MAP sensor test, although it said voltage should be between 1.5 to 2 volts and as you increase RPMs it should lower voltage, well mine pretty much stays on the high side of 1.7-1.9 volts than when i increase RPMs it goes to 2 volts, instead of lowering?

Pulled out IAC motor it was clean but pintel was all the way out. Purchase a new one put it in no change, however last night i left it plugged in but removed it from Throttle body, The pintel was all the way out, I was told if i turn on the ignition it should retract and pull itself in, well it didnt, infact in whet out even farther and the spring and pintle came off? Not sure whats up with that, but gonna get another one and replace, seems like its getting stuck all the way out causing low idle?

I have not changed my IAT sensor or ECT sensor. I heard those play a roll with the IAC Motor?

Before i got the new motor, i got new O2 sensors, OEM not Bosch, i used those again, and did not replace.

New Plugs, Wires, PCV, starter, Waterpump, ....

I am using aftermarket headers on this truck brand new,

I did not have a scan tool when i did my install,
Put in distributor, follwoing manual.
TDC, all that stuff, at first it didnt start, but i realized on my TDC i was on the exhaust stroke, 180 out, fixed that started right up. Could all of this be because of a fuel sync issue? I know i can do the voltometer trick, and get it close, but seems like im pretty dang close now?

Also the Throttle body is not stock, when i got the truck it was aftermarket, but ran fine than.

My mpgs are crap, around 7mpg. And motor seems a little weak, i stomp on it and it goes but i cant even get my tires to chirp?

New catalatic converter as well.

Although symptoms show up more at a stop sign, with low idle, i can put it in park or neural and it still seems rather low, i think 700-800 should be at curb idle when warm?

Cant find any vacume leaks, as well.

Any thoughts, information im looking for is trouble shooting, or steps to confrim a part is bad, Im not going the route where people say replace this and this, its seems when i do that im throwing money out the window, with no results.

With the same motor but rebuilt, i was told by someone i need to bring it to a dealership and have them tune my computer to the new motor?

Also after replaceing most of these throttle body sensors, i unplug the battery and reset the ECM, however i have not really done and ECM relearn procedures, most i drove it was around 25 min highway speeds, drive fine, but when i come to a stop it gets the bad idle. Does this relearn procedure take awhile, and or am i not doing something correct?

Would love some input and thanks for your time.

brondondolon 10-25-2013 10:59 PM

im only taking a mild guess but maybe a misfire? is that what it seems to you at least? just for piece of mind if i had your problem id pull all the plugs and re install them as if you were teaching your self in the most basic form. like hold the #1 plug and tell your self 1 then go to the first spark plug to be fired and tell your self 1 then do the same on the distributor cap. i know it sounds ridiculous but ive installed the wrong wires so many times you would think ive never worked on a car lol. id start with that at least check the cap and rotor too. if all else fails report back im sure some one will chime in soon that can provide more help then i can.

spun360 10-25-2013 11:51 PM

run the truck in the complete darkness! look for blue sparks on the wires. sray lightly with water. you might be losing voltage with bad wires.
run a few resistance tests on the coil. do you have a haynes manual?
with a cam! you will need to adjust the idle speed! try turning the set screw 1/8th turn at a time. i've adjust mine several times. i do it by ear, but a tech will tell you theres a special number in the pcm that your looking for. "iac counts" thats the term. BA! if i change the pcv- i adjust the throttle stops. if i change the air filter- i adjust the stops. yup! i just spent $1k on the exhaust- i adjusted the throttle stops. let me know how it goes from there.

mike123456 10-29-2013 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spun360 (Post 1229648)
run the truck in the complete darkness! look for blue sparks on the wires. sray lightly with water. you might be losing voltage with bad wires.
run a few resistance tests on the coil. do you have a haynes manual?
with a cam! you will need to adjust the idle speed! try turning the set screw 1/8th turn at a time. i've adjust mine several times. i do it by ear, but a tech will tell you theres a special number in the pcm that your looking for. "iac counts" thats the term. BA! if i change the pcv- i adjust the throttle stops. if i change the air filter- i adjust the stops. yup! i just spent $1k on the exhaust- i adjusted the throttle stops. let me know how it goes from there.


My throttle stop screw hole has a metal plug in it? Do you just pop that out or something? Damn thing is in there good.

Warlock III 10-29-2013 07:48 PM

I'd lean towards the upstream 02 sensors. I know you mentioned that you replaced them but that doesn't mean they are still good. If they were purchased from just about anywhere and under a year old you should be able to exchange them.

I wouldn't mess with the throttle just yet because I've seen 'em "adjusted" only to have to put it into gear at 1100 RPM once it's warmed up.

mike123456 10-30-2013 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warlock III (Post 1232554)
I'd lean towards the upstream 02 sensors. I know you mentioned that you replaced them but that doesn't mean they are still good. If they were purchased from just about anywhere and under a year old you should be able to exchange them.

I wouldn't mess with the throttle just yet because I've seen 'em "adjusted" only to have to put it into gear at 1100 RPM once it's warmed up.


Think i got this figured out, when i put in my new IAC valve, i noticed i had the same results driving around the block for 15 min or so, kept dying at stop lights. Well yesterday i had to make a run to the dump, which is a 40 min drive, sure enough it died at every light on the way up, than when i got to the dump there was a wait, and sure enough it idled, did great the whole way home. This morning ran great, i think the computer relearn took a little longer than i thought it would, and i just kept messing with it rarther than driving it for a good period of time, now im going to a shop today to get fuel sync dialed in, im hearing 4+ or should i stay closer to 0 +- 1, i do have a slightly bigger cam in? They called it a RV cam?

Warlock III 10-30-2013 02:26 PM

I'm pretty sure the larger cam would call for more advance as the valves open sooner and close later. I would probably go with the 4+ and see how it performs.

Mark it at both while you're under there so You have a reference point and can do it with just a turn and a twist in the future if need be..

mike123456 10-31-2013 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warlock III (Post 1233140)
I'm pretty sure the larger cam would call for more advance as the valves open sooner and close later. I would probably go with the 4+ and see how it performs.

Mark it at both while you're under there so You have a reference point and can do it with just a turn and a twist in the future if need be..


i checked fuel sync was at +2, i brought it up to + 5 and seemed fine than started bucking going down the highway, im gonna go back and set it to 2 again, ran perfect than.

mike123456 10-31-2013 07:06 PM

set the sync to "0" and runs great. Leaving it at that.

Thanks for all your help guys


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