HID Harness is not needed..
Thought I would share with most of you guys wanting to upgrade to HID headlights.
Learn form my mistakes.
I never owned a north american car always had imports. Most of them had the can bus systems which is electrical system used to monitor if your lights were out. When this system was introduced HID kits started to go down because lots of people started to get hyper flash, errors that lights are out, sometimes one light turns on one light turns off..
Reading this was a issue on the ram ( 2013 Projector ones) I looked at what other members suggested. 250-300.00 HID kits..... I ended up buying one.
Install was easy but issues i started having was annoying not to mention I HATE having wires in the engine compartment.
I did a small research and found these
you can get them for even 5.00 a piece. They go in between your ballast and bulb. Installed them in the 200.00 now kit which i had to pay extra for the so called plug and play harness that was acting up, and sure enough no messages and no issues. I have been running them since may and no issues.
Further to investigate the kit i had were "digital ballast" so I wanted to see if it would work on the cheap antic 35.00 HID kits on ebay. I ended up picking up 9006 HID kit for the fogs. Sure enough with the cancellers they worked.
Now if you are going to go even one step further you could do what I did and that is buy CANBUS FREE HID ballast and pay 200.00 you can plug and play.
I took mine one step further and went with a OEM BMW system and a FXR projector swap. The difference between the OEM halogen projector with a kit to FXR and a d2s OEM system is night and day. Of course now we are talking closer to the 600-700.00 Range and baking headlight open.
If anyone is telling you to buy a 200.00 HID kit please send me 200.00 to my paypal and then I will send you a kit that I bought for 60.00 with cancellers. And you will be amazed and happy.
The only time you do need the harness is if your lights are H4 or H13 when they serve as a low/high beam. You will loose the high beam. Fortunately are trucks are not like that. We have separate bulbs. Oh and for the projector headlights there is a little plate that flips opens internally and lets the light shine further out. .
Was enjoying the whole read until the end, when I realized my 3rd gen is an H13 bulb for my HIDs, which do run off the same bulb. Oh well. Interested right up :D
Being that the ballasts even with a great company are the first things to go bad and then you couple that with what i read on your error eliminator which is just a capacitor it seems like you would be taking a pretty big risk, which is why i would assume the HID company's provide a relay harness that provides a failsafe with a fuse and to prevent any serious damage in the event of an electrical problem.
I will agree to this to a point however your car still is running a fuse for each individual headlight. The risk is very very low that it will damage the lights. The eBay canceler is basically a load simulator similar to fixing hyperflash LEDs. It provides a ground loop.
We at work modify heavy diesel trucks with new LED headlights and they have basically one cancelers similar to what you are looking at.
I have been running these cancelers every day on my old BMW for 4 years have not fried anything.
Again im not going to take responsibility for damage lol.
I just trying to save people some money because there are alot of sellers that sell these fancy thing for 2- 300.00. For that price you can basically buy FXR projecotrs and do a OEM swap kit like I did.
Its really up to the user who is installing HID's on his truck whether he or she is willing to buy Ebay products or cheap ebay products and run them on there vehicles without a harness. Its there prerogative to take the chance in blowing the TIPM unit on the truck if something shorts out. I have seen more than one person have it happen and most will not post of there mistake and the cost of repairs on there truck. If your going to buy those products off Ebay again that is your prerogative. My only hick-cup here is that anyone that is reading this should know of the potential possible issue of what they buy and what they install in there trucks, there is no direct protection like fuses on TIPM units in there trucks, you get a ballast short, there is a large probability your TIPM unit will fry. With a Wire harness (these cost like 30$ for good ones) your providing that extra protection on a 1000$ unit replaced at the dealers. Many of the user who are installing these have no clue what there getting into have no experience with these products and are looking for the right information. Even if you buy Crappy ballasts from some dude on ebay, at least install a harness. Inexpensive protection. JMO
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