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-   -   Help with my 95 Neon (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=164978)

BowHunter11 01-27-2014 06:19 PM

Help with my 95 Neon
 
Not sure if this is the most proper place for this post, but here it goes.

I have a 1995 Plymouth Neon, bought it 2 years ago in March with about 60,000 original miles, and I'm the second owner. It was purchased for my girlfriend to drive and hasn't had too many problems for a car of its age. We've replaced the struts, the A/C condenser, and a few other minor things. Recently, its been having some issues and a mechanic at my local Dodge dealership can't seem to figure out what's wrong, as it is still having issues.

After driving the car for a little bit, maybe 10-15 minutes, the problem starts. Whenever you're actually driving, you don't notice it. But when you pull up to a stop sign or stop light, or anywhere to stop, while still in drive, the car seems like it has incredible power and tries to pull away even though I am standing on the brakes. Then once you put the car in park, it begins to rev up real high, then idle back down, then rev up again, then idle back down again. It will do that until you starting driving again or shut the car off. But if you just drive across town, say only a couple minutes, it doesn't do this. Only when the car seems to be warmed up enough. That's just my thoughts.

The mechanic at my local Dodge dealership told me it was the timing belt. So he replaced that and also the idler arm, I think, and said it was fixed. But after driving it approximately seven miles down the road, it was doing it again. So then he fixed part of the vaccum hose, not sure what that is, but he said that should fix the problem. But it is still revving up and idling down when at a stop.

Does anyone have any clue what might be the problem or how to fix it? My girlfriend recently purchased her own car, so I plan to use this Neon to commute to college every day, if I can get it fixed pretty cheap. Thanks in advance for any help given!

relic 01-27-2014 09:45 PM

Sounds like a throttle position sensor

BowHunter11 02-17-2014 05:38 PM

Sorry it took so long but thanks for the advice relic.

I finally had a guy look at the car and he said the same thing. So he replaced the throttle sensor, but it is doing the same thing. He said it may be the map sensor, but that's just a guess; he's a diesel mechanic so he's not certain. And I don't want to spend $300, for just the part, on one guy's guess. Any other ideas anyone?

wolfman01 02-18-2014 12:50 PM

Instead of throwing random parts at the car, I would get values for the operational ranges of the sensors, and hook up an OBD computer to the car if one can, that shows live data as it's being driven. Once the car starts to act up, look at which sensor is going offline. I would start running the wiring loom beginning where that sensor is installed. A 20 year old car with 60k miles on it has very likely been the subject of curiosity by rodents at some point in it's extended period of sitting around. Barring that, look for corroded grounds. Intermittent issues like this are typically not caused by a part failure.

If no OBD, then you have to use a good volt/ohm meter and look at the values the hard way.

BowHunter11 02-18-2014 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolfman01 (Post 1333776)
Instead of throwing random parts at the car, I would get values for the operational ranges of the sensors, and hook up an OBD computer to the car if one can, that shows live data as it's being driven. Once the car starts to act up, look at which sensor is going offline. I would start running the wiring loom beginning where that sensor is installed. A 20 year old car with 60k miles on it has very likely been the subject of curiosity by rodents at some point in it's extended period of sitting around. Barring that, look for corroded grounds. Intermittent issues like this are typically not caused by a part failure.

If no OBD, then you have to use a good volt/ohm meter and look at the values the hard way.

I don't have access to something like an OBD computer, although that would be nice. On the other hand, my dad has a volt meter he uses for working on pumps for people's houses. I don't know much at all about mechanics or electrical issues, so what/how do you mean looking at values the hard way?

wolfman01 02-19-2014 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BowHunter11 (Post 1333805)
I don't have access to something like an OBD computer, although that would be nice. On the other hand, my dad has a volt meter he uses for working on pumps for people's houses. I don't know much at all about mechanics or electrical issues, so what/how do you mean looking at values the hard way?

What you need to get are the voltage ranges that the sensors operate in. You want to look for voltages that are outside the operational range of the sensor, most likely reading zero. When the car is running right, all of the sensors should be showing their voltages in their proper range. The one that doesn't show the proper voltage range (may toggle if it cycles), or shows wild numbers will be the one that is causing your issue. As others have mentioned, even though your TPS has been replaced, I would still suspect that circuit, or mass airflow sensor and its circuit. The car is apparently having issues knowing how much fuel to inject, causing your screwy idle. The time span you are discussing is proper for when the car changes from "open loop" (no sensors to dictate air/fuel mixtures) to "closed loop" (sensors determine quantity and duration of injection).

This is why electrical issues get expensive fast. They are a bitch to troubleshoot.

I would also clean that throttle body to make sure that being carboned up isn't the cause of your issue.


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