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-   -   Losing my clear coat (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=42355)

deanthecrabman 10-04-2009 08:57 PM

Losing my clear coat
 
I'm getting some white showing through on my roof and hood. Roof is the worse. Had a body guy tell me that the clear coat is coming off, and it needs redone. Any advise as to doing this yourself? :doh:

CdnoilRAM 10-04-2009 09:27 PM

Well, if you have a compressor that is rated to run an spray gun (25+ Gal) and a clean garage wher you can spray with no worries it's fairly straight forward. Get a DA sander and sand the clear coat down with a high grit paper (800-1000 then 1500) clean it off really well then wipe with a electrostatic cloth, then apply the clear coat according to the manufacturer's recomendations. Oh, mask all other areas off around the spray areas so you don't get the overspray. sand down again with the 1500 using lots of water and you'll get a real smooth finish.

If there's any other guys on here that know more about this than me, please pipe in, but that's the best I can give you.

CajunDodge 10-04-2009 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deanthecrabman (Post 87335)
I'm getting some white showing through on my roof and hood. Roof is the worse. Had a body guy tell me that the clear coat is coming off, and it needs redone. Any advise as to doing this yourself? :doh:

The "white" stuff you are referring to is because the paint is oxidized. I would try starting with a good coat of wax, to protect that, it worked on my Jeep for awhile, and since mine is red, I used the Turtle Wax with the red pigment in it, which brought a lot of the color and shine back. Eventually, I did have to have it buffed up a little to bring the color back and then waxed again, just depends on whether you want to at some point paint it. Good luck! :) P.S. - red paint looks great but is one of the harder colors to maintain.

- Cajun :pepper:

deanthecrabman 10-05-2009 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CajunDodge (Post 87351)
The "white" stuff you are referring to is because the paint is oxidized. I would try starting with a good coat of wax, to protect that, it worked on my Jeep for awhile, and since mine is red, I used the Turtle Wax with the red pigment in it, which brought a lot of the color and shine back. Eventually, I did have to have it buffed up a little to bring the color back and then waxed again, just depends on whether you want to at some point paint it. Good luck! :) P.S. - red paint looks great but is one of the harder colors to maintain.

- Cajun :pepper:

Thanks for the info. I've already used a very light polishing compound and waxed it(TurtleWax hard shell), that made it worse. My truck is maroon/burgandy color. Is there a wax product that would work for it?

Toms Blue Ram 1500 10-05-2009 09:59 PM

If it's the clearcoat coming off . To do it right , the entire layer of clear needs to be removed before throwing on a new layer of paint or it will continue to flake off ruining your new paint job .

deanthecrabman 10-06-2009 09:02 PM

I've got all the tools, just no space. I think I'll check with a couple of detailing shops here before I commit. Thanks for the info!

1970 Charger 10-07-2009 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CdnoilRAM (Post 87349)
Well, if you have a compressor that is rated to run an spray gun (25+ Gal) and a clean garage wher you can spray with no worries it's fairly straight forward. Get a DA sander and sand the clear coat down with a high grit paper (800-1000 then 1500) clean it off really well then wipe with a electrostatic cloth, then apply the clear coat according to the manufacturer's recomendations. Oh, mask all other areas off around the spray areas so you don't get the overspray. sand down again with the 1500 using lots of water and you'll get a real smooth finish.

If there's any other guys on here that know more about this than me, please pipe in, but that's the best I can give you.

CdnoilRam is right, it has to be stripped. I used to own a body shop, if you strip off the clear, your going to mess up the color (the base coat). When the color is applied, it looks flat - no gloss at all. Your spray gun pressure and paint viscosity when mixed all affects the color. Even if you used the same spray gun but hooked it to another compressor or adjusted the pressure gauge on the present compressor, the color would slightly change. That is why body shops talk about blending color on a panel. If you have a 4 door car and there is a dent in the middle of the front door that needs to be fixed, chances are they will have to repaint the back door and the front fender. The front door with the dent will be painted first with the base coat, then the rear door and front fender are unmasked (they had to be previously prepped for paint before covering them up). The paint is then dusted over evenly over part of the rear door and front fender. The paint is then thinned out and the process repeated but going further along the door panel. Then this is repeated again. When the flash time is over for the base coat (Colored paint). The clear coat is ready to be applied to both doors and the front fender.

This is a normal refinish process given in a condensed version with many finish prep steps left out. Any sanding scratches, finger prints, etc will show up in the paint - it probably will be blotchy from the sanding. Also the paint probably won't stick long because the base coat was not reapplied.

And last but not least - better hope a neighbor does not call the EPA - painting a truck in a garage is a violation. And if some is smoking and walks in or a spark from the windings on the electric compressor motor when it starts up from the paint mist in the garage. We will have one less Z family member to talk with.

I hope this helps you out.


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