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-   -   Class IV hitch installation (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=44725)

GPSHSLAX 12-06-2009 10:21 PM

Class IV hitch installation
 
Well ... there will be no pics of the actual install (my camera is dead and I already packed the charger) but I thought I might write a description to help with the few minor issues I ran into.

First, here are some pics of the instructions.


http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ons_Page_1.jpg
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/y...ons_Page_2.jpg

I'm not sure why they show safety goggles. There is no drilling or cutting of any kind, and I'm somewhat unsympathetic to anyone that puts out their eye with a tourque wrench. (My sincere appologies to anyone whom has been maimed by a horrific tourque wrench accident). Here follows the steps as they are numbered in the instructions with my notes and ideas included.

1. Remove existing trailer ball hole cap on center of bumper.

Note: If you have mounted a ball and tow from the bumper currently removing the ball.

2. Loosely install hitch with hex bolt and washer to bumper beam.

Note: You will need to slip the top edge of the hitch inside the bumper to seat it properly.

3. Insert pull wire through mounting hole and out of tube.

Notes: Remove the spare tire before doing this, it will make your life easier and you will ultimately have to anyway to get the wrench in there.

You will need to feed the pull wire through from the hitch receiver end, not the open end of the tube. I found this counterintuitive but you need the spring shaped end of the wire at the end of the tube and you will never get the narrow end of the wire through the tube and out the hole. Trust me on this.

4. Route carriage bolt and reinforcement plate through bumper beam and hitch mounting slots. (2 places)

Notes: Thread the reinforcement plate first and then screw the bolt into the spring. Don't worry about seating the plate on the bolt at this time. Pull the wire until you get the end of the bolt through the hole. Jiggle to bolt to make sure it seats in the reinforcement plate and you have the maximum amount of thread exposed.

Unscrew the pull wire carefully and be sure to keep aa finger pinning the bolt so it doesn't slip back into the tube once the wire is removed. Thread the hex flange nut from step five onto the first bolt at this time.

THIS IS IMPORTANT. If you don't keep hold of the bolt and it slips back into the tube it is lost and gone forever. Unless you have an endoscope or the super human strength to flip the truck on its side and shake the bolt out there will be no good way to retreive it.

Repeat for bolt 2.

5. Attach hex flange nut and tighten to 85 ft. lb. torque.

Tighten Bolt in step 2 to 300 ft. lb. torque.

Notes: Tighten nuts and bolts as indicated. By the way, good luck finding a torque wrench that goes to 300 foot pounds. We have about 30 autoparts shops withing a 10 mile radius of me and not a single one could I find a wrench that went over 250. I turned the handle on the one I got to two and half turns past 250 (approximately where 300 ought to be) and leaned into it with all my might. I couldn't get it to click to save my life. I then dialed it back to 250 and did it again. This time the bolt didn't budge but I got a click, so I know I'm tight to at least 250.

6. Install new bumper cap over bolt.

Notes: If the washer shifted this may be difficult. Try slipping the clip in on whatever edge has space and then rotate that clip into the tight spot. This allows you to seat each clip where there is room and rotate the cap so the whole thing ends of seated properly.



That's about all she wrote. Make sure to properly stow your spare tire and tire change equipment and your done. I know this is a pretty simple install but in the event anyone finds this usefull, there it is. Any questions feel free to post back of PM me.

CajunDodge 12-06-2009 10:48 PM

Very good how-to there, man, I am sure this will help simplify the process for others! :smileup: How long did this actually take you?

- Cajun :pepper:

GPSHSLAX 12-06-2009 10:57 PM

Seemed like it took forever. I had to find a decent torque wrench and a 1 1/8" socket first. Also I've never owned a vehichle with a winch mounted spare before so I had to figure that all out.

The actual install probably only took 30 minutes or so. The dicking around took the better part of the evening.

I was also lucky, in that I have the wireing for the trailer hookup preinstalled. That would have been a whole other can of worms.

RamTech 12-06-2009 10:58 PM

If the bolt does slip off inside the tube, a flexible magnet can be used to fish it out. I've had to do this a couple of times. As for torquing, we do the same thing at the shop that you did and it's never given any problems.

MADDOG 12-06-2009 11:02 PM

Good write up!

GPSHSLAX 12-06-2009 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Remerson228 (Post 115055)
If the bolt does slip off inside the tube, a flexible magnet can be used to fish it out. I've had to do this a couple of times. As for torquing, we do the same thing at the shop that you did and it's never given any problems.


I would have assumed the magnet would just stick to the inside of the tube. How do you prevent that from happening.

fx2offroad 04-20-2010 08:39 PM

So is this receiver"addon" tow the same amount of weight as buying the 350 dealer instaled trailer hitch. I've looked mine and a truck that has a trailer hitch and it seems that the trailer hitch is the same other than mine is missing the receiver.


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