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-   -   360 magnum mod test (

69beeguy 07-09-2010 01:04 PM

360 magnum mod test
ok everybody, i have a test of your knowledge. let me preface it by explaining what i need it for. i am going to enter the chumpcar series. it is a series of road racing wherein aside from safety equip, brakes, wheels, DOT tires, paint, guages and pedals, you are NOT allowed to spend over $500 for the entire car. there are 2 types of races held by chumpcar. there is a 2x7hr enduro (one sat and one sun) or the 24hr enduro. so cars need to be able to last.
since i am a mopar man, my plan is to take a 360 magnum (wiring and PCM) and install it into an old 70's duster/dart. the block will be surfaced to attain 10:1 compression (minimal cost). i plan on gasket matching the intake and heads. the pushrod pinch area of the heads will also be smoothed out. i found that throttle body mod on here and will do that too. i can perform the intake, head and throttle body work myself.

here is your test. using e bay/craigslist parts, what would you buy for performance mods staying under $300? i know you arent allowed to spend over $500, but i will need the rest for suspension mods/replacement parts.

Toms Blue Ram 1500 07-09-2010 02:17 PM

Good question ? Programmer (Superchips) . Headers w/ collectors and pipe work . E-fan setup . I'll think about this and come up with some more . You need stuff that will work for you for a long period of time (endurance) .

69beeguy 07-13-2010 10:47 PM

tough test i know
probably not the easiest question to answer i know. but i found out some information and see if this helps you guys figure things out. i e mailed rick ehrenberg of mopar muscle magazine and told him of the situation and he said that i could just over pressurize the fuel system a bit so i wont have to buy injectors. this leads me to another problem. since i will be using the A body fuel tank or racing fuel cell, what fuel pump and regulator should i use? remember i really need to keep the cost down.

Toms Blue Ram 1500 07-13-2010 10:59 PM

I would think the easiest way to increase fuel pressure would be to take the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator . It would definitely increase fuel pressure . It may even turn on the check engine light because of the rich fuel mixture .

erm 07-13-2010 11:37 PM

I'd go with headers and possibly an older style medium rise intake manifold.

KingBrenton 07-14-2010 08:04 AM

Junkyard DIY turbo. Can't be beat.

erm 07-14-2010 10:12 AM

^^^ Interesting idea! ^^^

chithead 07-14-2010 10:18 AM

One of those electric superchargers and a throttle body spacer :D:D:D

69beeguy 07-14-2010 10:33 PM

good suggestions
i thought about the LA intake idea. that would either mean modifying the magnum heads to take the LA intake or modifying the LA intake to go into the magnum heads. both of which i havent ever done. not saying that i couldnt, but it would be new to me anyway. i would still need to purchase a carb and air cleaner for it. although not extremely expensive, my budget is very limited due to the rules.
i have never known anybody that has done a junkyard turbo. what would be involved in that and could i do it for under $300?
there is a website out there that shows you how to raise the fuel pressure of your own regulator. it is definitely a DIY in your garage.
i will be doing a set of used headers (ebay) or making them myself (i am a decent welder). whichever is cheaper.
does anybody know of smaller diameter pulleys i could use. like pulling them off of a 3.9, 2.5 or something else?

rancherman 07-16-2010 09:07 AM

old school time
Here are some 'free' things from the past. Free as in 'gaining' horsepower that would normally be lost.
This is from my big block days 383-440.
I don't know if your motor has a windage tray, but running one will 'save' you 10-15 horsepower. At higher rpm, the 'wind' off the crank will push the oil in the pan up and all over. That will put a heck of a drag on the crank. make sure you have one in place.
I don't know about 360 pistons, but look to see if they are 'offset' wrist pin design. I took my big block pistons and intentionally press them on backwards. That would get the alignment of the wrist pin more 'inline' with the crankshaft. Chrysler engineers claimed another 10-15 horsepower with this trick. They didn't do this at the factory because 'piston slap' made for a noisey engine, and long term durability was decreased. The pistons will now have their 'notches' toward the back of the engine. If you have flat top pistons, there won't be any valve clearance problems.
Finally, another free trick would be to take your spark plugs and clamp them in a vise. File the electrodes back, so the round post is about half exposed. This 'exposes' the spark more to the combustion chamber, and should be good for at least a few horses. again, long term durability isn't the point here!
Good luck and have fun!

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