Hunting for battery drain
My '08 truck started having it's battery go dead after sitting for about a week. Nothing has changed electrically prior to this starting. I have some electrical mods, but nothing recent. I first disconnected the battery and let it sit, no problem. I then reconnected the battery leaving off anything I have added that goes to the battery, driving lights, power running board,etc, the problem was back.
After blowing the 2A fuse in my meter and ordering a new meter with a 10A capacity, I have found that there is about 600mA draw after waiting a bit from turning off the key. I pulled each fuse individually while watching the meter (under hood lamp is removed). A few of the fuses caused about a .003A difference but nothing major.
I really expected that I would have found a fuse that made a major difference, that would narrow the search, but none did. I disconnected the power distribution/fuse box and the meter dropped to 0.
Now I am left scratching my head. What circuit goes thru the fuse box but is not fused that could be pulling 1/2 amp with the key off? I am thinking normal draw would be .040 A or less. Agreed?
Ideas or suggestions?
After letting the truck sit a little longer I measured the current drain at about 200mA with all of the fuses removed. F11 seems to have the largest effect causing some big differences when installed then settling down after a while.
I've discovered that the row of smaller connectors on the distribution/fuse block have the largest effect when unplugged. C1,C5,C6 and C7 combined account for around 50mA. Only after removing C2 and C4 together am I able to drop the remaining 150mA. I am now trying to track down these circuits and hope this is the problem.
Any advice is appreciated.
I have learned the hard way that you must leave the ammeter in the circuit when waiting for things to stabilize (DUH!). Also, it takes pretty long, >15 minutes, for the truck to "go to sleep".
Right now with all connectors in and F11 only I have 650mA after 10 minutes.
Does anyone know why there are 2 different positions for F38? It has 3 socket holes and, of course, 2 pins on the fuse.
That is for your power outlet. It allows it to come on with the ignition or remain on at all times. The CAN B system typically takes up to 20 minutes to go into sleep mode.
Have you disconnected the underhood lamp? This could account for your draw on the F11 fuse.
Fixed but still a mystery
Took out all the fuses, disconnected all of the connectors on the fuse box. Measured, waited, measured, put it back together one step at a time, waited, measured.
In the end I have about 22mA of sleeping current, about what I would expect, and no clue what the problem was.
Sometimes things just happen.
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