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themattman 01-01-2011 04:04 PM

Replace Spark Plugs
Does anyone have a step by step guide to replace the plugs on a 2009 RAM 1500 5.7L Laramie? The manual says to use NGK LZFR5C11 (Gap 0.043 in [1.09 mm]) but I can't find those anywhere. Napa told me to use Autolite AP5263. Are those OK? I've done it before in other vehicles, but not this one. I want to make sure I cover all the bases so any help would be much appreciated!


old hot rod 01-01-2011 05:25 PM

Have you checked with the dealer, I like sticking with factory plugs, that way you know they're right

partypooper 01-01-2011 05:26 PM

The only place I found those plugs available was at the dealership. Make sure you have 2 swivels and an extension. You will need them to squeeze by the brake booster. I went spark plug tool, swivel, extension, swivel, then wrench.

There was plenty of Dielectric grease left in the coil packs, and I would pick up 2 packets of anti seize for the plugs. After 30K miles the gaps on the plugs that I removed ranged from (0.46"-0.47"). It was a complete waste of my time when I changed them. I'm not sure why it's required in the service manual. I changed all 16 in about 2.5 hours. Not including the time spent to gap all 16 plugs before I started the job. The new plugs I purchased from the dealership, the plug gap ranged from .042" -.065".

If your real critical you can pull out a torque wrench. The control plans and torques from Saltillo,Mexico shows the electrode gap is 1.09mm(.043") with 18Nm +/-3 torque on the plug. There was also a note on the torque sheet that says not to exceed 21Nm due to a "Torque critical tapered design of the spark plug"(translation from spanish).

themattman 01-02-2011 11:53 AM

Ok, thanks guys. I'll get an extra swivel and return these autolites. If the dealer has the OEM NGK's, I'll get em there. I've seen some posts about some of the plugs being hard to get to or even see. How big of a hassle is this project?

Ram15002ndgen 01-02-2011 01:42 PM

Why are you changing them so soon? I think the new engines allow you to go 100K miles before replacement. Only the older blocks and plugs needed changing every 30K miles. Doesn't Dodge use the newer type plugs with new filaments? (I forget what material they are).

themattman 01-02-2011 08:14 PM

The manufacturer requires them to be replaced at 30,000 in order to keep up the factory warranty.

themattman 01-03-2011 12:31 PM

Since the stock plugs are only available from the dealer, isn't there some law that says the dealer has to provide them at no charge?

themattman 01-03-2011 04:34 PM

I called the dealer and they're $4 apiece (x16 = $64). The parts guy said "from personal experience, you don't need to change them". So I'm only doing it to keep up the warranty. I wish they'd update the manual to not require new plugs every 30k...

RootBeer 01-03-2011 04:38 PM

More often than not plugs last a lot longer than what the dealer says they should be changed. However, there's a downside to keeping them in for long times. The plugs and the heads are not made of the same material and will rust/corrode together which usually results in a plug breaking off in the head when someone tries to remove it.

This is a common problem with phords.

Whether you change the plugs frequently or not, make sure you put anti-seize on the threads. :D

Turbovsix 01-03-2011 05:53 PM

BTW, could you actually be denied warranty coverage if you stretched your plug changes? I rarely went with the recommended service on my 300M and never had warranty issues, mainly because most suggested services weren't necessary. Not saying I'd skimp on the RAM, but...

Plus, how could a dealer ever prove you didn't change the plugs if you did them yourself?

Just curious about experiences you guys have had with getting the Ram serviced. My last NEW vehicle was back in 2004 and am curious if they are more stringent with warranty claims now?

(sorry about the partial thread jack)

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