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-   -   Raise the front or drop the back? (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=84559)

M n M 06-09-2011 02:00 PM

Raise the front or drop the back?
 
So I've been doing some reading about leveling my truck and want your opinions and thoughts.

I have a 2WD 2010 Ram that I consider a street machine. I like the over all height of the stock tires but do plan to get custom rims (prob 18's) with a lower profile tire.

I see that I can raise the front with kits around $100 - 150. Pro's seem to be that it is cost effective and allow for larger wheels. Con's seem to be that some kits are hard to install and they don't 100% level the truck.

I see that I can drop the back for about $350 - 370. Pro's seem to be that some kits give you stiffer suspension that won't sag under heavier loads and the ride quality suffers little. Con's would be that you could not increase the size of your wheels.

So what an I missing? should I raise the front or drop the back and why?

SPC.Brinkmeyer 06-09-2011 05:35 PM

im always for going up.. hell i got 35s on my ram with a level kit and BL that were on it when i got it and i want to eventualy fit 40s

highlandchef 06-10-2011 07:29 PM

Honestly I like the way it looks stock.

snrusnak 09-26-2011 03:50 PM

If you can get your hands on a cheap used set of rear springs of a single cab you can cut them safely. They have tighter wound coils at the top compared to the quad cabs, that are safe to cut and you can cut as much as about 2" and still be safe to ride on them. Ride quality is basically unchanged, although you probably will lose a few hundred lbs (at most) carrying capacity. This would only cost you the price of the used springs (I bought mine from a guy with an RT that bought a lowering kit, he only charged me shipping, I think it was like $15....he was from this forum).

BlackRamHemi 09-26-2011 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snrusnak (Post 621961)
If you can get your hands on a cheap used set of rear springs of a single cab you can cut them safely. They have tighter wound coils at the top compared to the quad cabs, that are safe to cut and you can cut as much as about 2" and still be safe to ride on them. Ride quality is basically unchanged, although you probably will lose a few hundred lbs (at most) carrying capacity. This would only cost you the price of the used springs (I bought mine from a guy with an RT that bought a lowering kit, he only charged me shipping, I think it was like $15....he was from this forum).

The rear coils on an R/T must be different then
I put a Ground Force 2/3 Drop on my RCSB 4x4 and the stock rear coils are standard, only the new replacement GF coils are progressive.

Stock left, progressive right...
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Dropit005.jpg

I love my leveled 4x4, Front only dropped about 1.5", rear a bit over 3.5" and still room for large wheels/tires ...currently running 305/50R20's with my 2/3 Drop.
The ride quality is 10x better than stock, and so is the handling when I toss her aggressively into a tight corner....has never bottomed out.

http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Dropit023.jpg

before/after pic's
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/a...mit/BRH005.jpg http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...aHemi/VTX5.jpg

snrusnak 09-26-2011 04:07 PM

Quote:

The rear coils on an R/T must be different then
I put a Ground Force 2/3 Drop on my RCSB 4x4 and the stock rear coils are standard, only the new replacement GF coils are progressive.
Good point. This could be a 4x4 vs 4x2 thing though also(meaning that it may be possible that a 4x2 single cab has progressive coils...maybe?). If one were to try to buy springs to cut they'd have to see them before buying them. I can say for sure the RT's will work as that's what I bought.

BlackRamHemi 09-26-2011 04:41 PM

The biggest issue I have with cutting coils is they are no longer engineered to perform properly with your 5 link suspension.
Not only is it unsafe and unstable it may get you in trouble with an insurance company if you cause a wreck and they find you "hacked" a key suspension component.
The reason Ground Force kits are the most expensive is because they "Engineer" them with specific designed progressive coils. ;)


Here's a stock 2wd rear coil, note a very limited number of wraps
http://image.truckinweb.com/f/170992...il_springs.jpg



Interesting read on http://www.allpar.com/model/ram/2009-ram.html



The new spring layout shows the attention to details and vehicle dynamics that the people at "JTE" [Jeep-Truck Engineering] are famous for. While odd looking with its offset springs to the layman, this design shows attention to the fundamentals of vehicle dynamics.

In 1967, GM used a 3 link (as opposed to the new Ram's 5 link) coil sprung suspension. The result was that the vehicle had a very comfortable ride when empty (industry leading, in fact), but when any load was placed in the pickup bed, the vehicle became unstable and sloppy handling. This result almost sank the new trucks before they were even out of the gate (it was deleted in favor of a conventional Hotchkiss shortly thereafter). The new Ram is the first U.S. volume built pickup truck since that time to attempt to use coil springs as its primary suspension system.

http://www.allpar.com/photos/dodge/r...suspension.gif
The pitch of the springs shown in the accompanying graphic show how the springs are canted and "bent" at the BPL position (BPL=Body Part Loaded- this means a loading of 2 each 150 lb passengers, full fluids, and 1/2 payload all combined to be the base point of design for the vehicle) to allow the reactions to motion of the ground contact patch ("where the rubber meets the road", to use an old marketing phrase of another company) to be efficiently controlled and isolated from disturbing the ride quality and stability of the vehicle.
The UCA (Upper Control Arm) links appear to be splayed outward at the frame attachment points, providing a lateral stability to the system that, in conjunction with the track bar (or "panhard rod") keeps the lateral shift of the axle, between jounce and rebound (maximum travel up and maximum travel down- NOT "bounce" and "droop"), to the minimum arc possible. Due to the over-constrained system (more about this in a moment) the axle will travel laterally in the vehicle, through an arc of approximately 2" total, left to right. The positioning of the track bar ensures that the travel will also be split evenly from jounce to rebound, minimizing the dreaded "head toss" so prevalent in the Jeep XJ (Cherokee SUV), MJ (Comanche pickup), and early ZJs.
The side view angularity between the UCA and LCA (Lower Control Arm) indicates a long instant center, a theoretical point in space ahead of the axle, that controls the fore and aft arc the axle travels through as it goes from jounce to rebound. By having a long instant center, you ensure the axle does not change the wheelbase a great deal, affecting braking distances and geometry and upsetting the transient dynamics of handling in an emergency lane change.

http://www.allpar.com/photos/shows/c...suspension.jpg

snrusnak 09-26-2011 04:51 PM

Quote:

Here's a stock 2wd rear coil, note a very limited number of wraps
And that's a single cab? If so then looks like cutting an RT spring is really the only safe way to go(if you're even comfortable with that).

lficke 10-03-2011 07:57 AM

Too much rake - have to raise the front!!!

mr.lopar 10-03-2011 04:19 PM

2wd = lower rear


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