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-   -   What are Headers? Lol (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=86856)

ramrt1993 07-11-2011 11:11 AM

What are Headers? Lol
 
I've gotten the basic mods on my truck out of the way, except for a programmer, and those aren't available yet :(

So now I'm tryin to plan out my next mods. I would like to put a magnuson blower on it, but I won't be able to afford that for another year or two. So I'm considering headers, cause I hear a lot of people talking about them. Will headers satisfy my need for speed? Or are they just gonna leave me wanting for more? I want mid to low 13s in my truck.

Also, how do I get headers installed? And are they really loud? If they are, they're out of the question, I don't want to be any louder. Would I have to make modifications to my exhaust with headers?

Somehow I think if I just supercharge my truck, I can be done with mods, and I'll probably run 13 seconds flat...I don't mind a one year wait, but if I need help deciding if supercharging is the way to go, or if there are other bolt ons that I should do instead.

BlackRamHemi 07-11-2011 12:17 PM

I wouldn't bother with a $6k supercharger unless you've got another $2-$3k for a Transmission that can handle the power.
Guys are frying the stock 545RFE with just an extra 40-50HP with minor bolt-on's already. MGH's Twin Turbo'd 4G Hemi roasted his trans within 1000 miles.


Headers help exhaust flow from the cylinder heads.
The collector is further down the line than having all 4 of the cylinder exhaust ports all fighting
for the same constrictive escape route in the small volume stock cast iron manifold.

Stock Hemi exhaust manifold:
http://images2.carpartsdiscount.com/...m_53010189.jpg

A Short Tube Header ( like JBA) provides a better than stock flow, maintains factory cats that are already fairly high flow in a 4G Hemi.
They go for about about $400, and $150 more for Ceramic Coated.(+/- 15 HP gain)

http://www.jbaheaders.com/assets/sit...ader_image.jpg


Long Tube Headers (ARH) provide the most power/torque (about +/- 30HP) if you have the proper supporting mods. The tubes are much longer than the shorties.
They also replace the factor cats with a higher flow cat and move them further down the pipeline and provide an un-restrictive Y pipe where the two sides combine just before the muffler.
Prices start at $1600, and it's another $250-$300 for Ceramic Coating ...not required but good for better heat reduction under hood, lasts longer, looks better.

http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...IMG_0499-1.jpg

If you dont have $2k to spend on Ceramic Caoted LT's, You can go with a Shorty Header, keep your factory cats, and get a 10778 Magnaflow Y pipe ($27)
That's the route I'm going with very shortly parts arriving within the couple weeks...and I'm already a 13 second (Heavier 4x4) 4G Ram
My next run will be with JBA Shorties, 85mm Fastman TB, Y pipe and probably an Edge 2800 Stall TQ Converter to get me out of the hole quicker. ;)

Magnaflow Y pipe:
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/a...eper/mag-y.jpg


This is what the stock squash bent Y pipe looks like for reference:
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/a...stockypipe.jpg

CdnoilRAM 07-11-2011 12:20 PM

If you're gonna supercharge it then I'd say headers would be in your best interest. Headers are the collector tubes that join the exhaust system to the motor itself. There are 3 types: long tunes, mid tube, and shorties. Shorties are similar to stock length, and offer better top-end performance, but no boost to the bottom end; mids give upgrades to the mid-top end, but lack in the bottome end; and long tubes give the best bottom end but rob the top end a bit. Now, these trucks need more effort to get going, so long tubes are your best choice normally, and if youe want to reduce the top end loss, you can install an electric cutout right after the header to remove the backpressure caused by the exhaust system.

Headers by themelves won't give you a big gain, but they will really help with other mods. They allow more air to flow out of the motor and improve the scavenging effects to get peak torque. They won't make your exhaust louder normally, unless you're running a tiny muffler, but expect some changes to the exhaust tone.

snrusnak 07-11-2011 12:58 PM

I'd suggest you do what blackramhemi suggested. For the money, you can add shortie headers that will bolt up to the stock exhaust, and then put in a good Y pipe, and since you already have a better flowing muffler you'll have a pretty decent exhaust system. It will get slightly louder, not crazy though. With longtubes it would be much louder. You should be able to install shorty headers yourself, it might take you a day, or weekend, though. It's just unbolting the original manifolds, then bolting the new headers on, but its just a pain to get in there. I know on my friends old 3rd gen ram we took the inner fenders off to put his longtubes on, made it much easier.

snrusnak 07-11-2011 01:03 PM

With the intake, exhaust, and programmer you probably won't reach 13 flat, but should be close. Maybe 13.2 - 13.5 or so. They run about 14 flat stock right? A torque converter or smaller diameter dedicated slicks will get you there for sure.

ramrt1993 07-11-2011 01:26 PM

I've already got a pretty sweet exhaust setup with a Magnaflow y pipe connecting directly to my Magnaflow muffler. I saw some YouTube vids of a hemi with headers and it sounded like garbage! I'm worried! I really would like shorty headers though..How much HP and torque do you think I'd gain from them?

ramrt1993 07-11-2011 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snrusnak (Post 566374)
With the intake, exhaust, and programmer you probably won't reach 13 flat, but should be close. Maybe 13.2 - 13.5 or so. They run about 14 flat stock right? A torque converter or smaller diameter dedicated slicks will get you there for sure.

I've already got the high stall 2600 torque convertor that came with the R/T package. As for slicks..I want this truck to be a very fast daily driver. I want it to be fast without a bunch of race preparation. That torque convertor is useless...if I stall it any higher than 2,000 RPMs, it spins out of control and doesn't catch traction for 1 or 2 seconds!

BlackRamHemi 07-11-2011 02:06 PM

I dont think many N/A 4G's are running under 13.5 yet ...even fully modified R/T's with:
CAI Intake, 85mm Throttle Body, LT Headers, Exhaust, Cam, a Custom Diablo CMR Tune AND a lighter set of sticky 17" wheels/tires.

BTW, the stock Torque Converter is a piece of crap! Yes even the 2600 in the R/T's.

If you want REAL torque to launch a heavy truck out of the hole you need Two things to get your 60' time down.

A "TRUE" 2800 Stall Torque Converter from Edge, Circle D or ATS
and an awesome set of sticky rear tires, preferably 17" Mickey Thompson Street ET's.

This is the TC I'm going for:

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/...dex&cPath=7_20

Street Edge - Dodge 45RFE / 545RFE
$525.00
The low heat, high performance torque converter designed with street use in mind.

The Street Edge is used in applications with up to 600+ HP and is limited to 2800-3000 rpm of true stall. A good choice for the performance minded daily driver, or weekend racer. A torque converter built efficient enough to drive in the city without adding unwanted heat. Impeller and turbine are furnace brazed. The lock up is upgraded to the latest "high carbon" friction. Hardened input splines, computer balancing and custom configuration. The O.E. stator is upgraded (replaced), and the cover is upgraded to billet steel.

ramrt1993 07-11-2011 02:33 PM

There's no way I'm changing my wheels...when my tires are worn out, I'll buy the highest quality street racing tires I can. As for a torque convertor and cam, I really don't wanna do either one of them. I really don't think a torque convertor makes that big a difference considering I just spin my tires on takeoff anyway. And cams are too expensive and I don't wanna mess around with something like that.

I'm thinking an 85 mm tb, and shorty headers should probably get me to 13.5 right? I'm a little nervous about both since changing the throttle body has created a whistling sound for some guys. And the idea of changing my exhaust sound with headers scares me.

All these mods just seem so complicated compared to a supercharger...I dunno if I wanna drop $6,300 though.

BlackRamHemi 07-11-2011 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ramrt1993 (Post 566417)
There's no way I'm changing my wheels...when my tires are worn out, I'll buy the highest quality street racing tires I can. As for a torque convertor and cam, I really don't wanna do either one of them. I really don't think a torque convertor makes that big a difference considering I just spin my tires on takeoff anyway. And cams are too expensive and I don't wanna mess around with something like that.

I'm thinking an 85 mm tb, and shorty headers should probably get me to 13.5 right? I'm a little nervous about both since changing the throttle body has created a whistling sound for some guys. And the idea of changing my exhaust sound with headers scares me.

All these mods just seem so complicated compared to a supercharger...I dunno if I wanna drop $6,300 though.

The FASTEST 4G R/T's don't even hit mid 13's without
CAI Intake, 85mm Throttle Body, LT Headers, Exhaust, Cam, a Custom Diablo CMR Tune AND a lighter set of sticky 17" wheels/tires.

If you think swapping in a "real" Torque Converter is not going to help because you're already spinning your tires...
How do you think a 100 HP+ Supercharger will help with your traction issues??

...another option is a ZEX kit for around $500 at ShopHemi.com, on almost a bone stock Crew Cab 4G a 75 shot is good for 13.4's ;)
You still need a tuner and should run colder plugs... http://www.shophemi.com/p-1107-dodge...em-by-zex.aspx


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