How To - 4TH Gen HID Projector Headlight installation
When I got my new 2011 Ram, I felt the stock headlights were a little boring and didn't exactly have stellar light output. After searching the Forumz, I decided to order some projector headlights and HID kits for both the high and low beams. Bordin's truck kind of sold me on the idea. I went with the Spyder CCFL Halo projector headlights. Recons look identical but are nearly twice the price. I went with DDM Tuning HID kits for the lights - H1 for the low beams and 9005 for the high beams.
I searched around on the Forumz for guidance on hooking up the HID kits and installing the lights. There was lots of good info, but nothing specific to installing HID kits into aftermarket projector lights. Bordin helped me a lot through his posts and several PMs. Others helped me as well through their posts. Too many people to count. I thank you all.
So, since I couldn't find a step-by-step how-to guide, I decided to make on. Please feel free to ask me any questions if you decide to do similar. I am by no means an expert, less than beginner actually. So if I can hook these up successfully, anyone can.
I also installed LED turn signal bulbs with load resistors to prevent hyperflashing. I will include the installation of those as well, since I installed them at the same time.
Here are my new Spyder CCFL Projector Headlights after I got them.
I did all of the wiring to install the HID kits into the projector headlight assemblies before I opened up my RAM. I am very glad I did this, because it took me a while. And I found out I needed error code eliminators for both the High and Low HID kits. I originally ordered them for the Low kits. The tech at DDM Tuning told me I didn't need them for the High beam kits. However, several people on the Forumz said they were needed for both. So I ordered them and had to wait a week for shipping.
Here is the back of the Spyder Headlight assembly.
First, I installed the low beam kit. To start, I removed the stock H1 bulb that came with the Spyder headlights.
I then inserted the HID H1 bulb into the socket and secured it with the wire securing tab. I had to work them around the back of the HID bulb. But once it latched into place, the light was tightly secured.
Here is the back of the projector assembly with the HID H1 bulb installed into the low beam light socket. The blue and black wires with the clearish rubber tab covers on them are the Projector headlight assembly Y-Harness wires and the other red and black wires are from the HID H1 kit.
I had to cut a hole about the size of a nickel in the rubber cap for the low beam light socket to thread the HID H1 kit wires though.
I then connected the red and black HID kit wires with the male tabs to the blue and black projector headlight assembly Y-harness wires with the female tabs and put the clearish rubber tab covers over the connection. Then I put the low beam rubber cap back in place covering the newly installed H1 low beam bulb. I put some clear silicone around the hole I cut in the rubber cap to prevent any leaking into the assembly.
Next, I removed the rubber cap covering the High beam socket and cut a hole in it to thread the 9005 HID kit wires though it. I installed the 9005 HID bulb in the high beam socket. I didn't feel the bulb was overly secure. So I loosed the screws on the white o-ring, twisted the HID bulb a little more and then retightened the screws. Be careful not to over tighten the screws and strip anything.
Here is a picture of the 9005 HID kit wires threaded through the High beam rubber cap.
The installation instructions from DDM Tuning say to cut the red and black wires from the 9005 HID kit that do not connect to the ballast and dispose of them. DO NOT cut them off. You need them. Under the high beam rubber cap, you connect them to the connector that attaches to the red and black wires from the projector assembly's Y-Harness wires.
Then I put the high beam rubber cap over the newly installed 9005 HID bulb. I put some clear silicone around the hole I cut in the rubber cap to prevent any leaking into the assembly.
Here is a picture of the back of the Projector headlight assembly with the HID bulbs installed into their sockets.
Next, I connected the ballast and the error code eliminator to the H1 low beam bulb wires. There is only one way these can connect due to the ends of the wires from the HID kit, so it is easy to figure out.
Then, I connected the ballast to the 9005 high beam bulb wires. The picture does not include the error code eliminator connected in the wiring like the low beams because at first I thought I only needed error code eliminators for the low beams. After more research, I ordered error code eliminators and connected them as well. Again, the wiring is pretty straight forward due to the ends of the wires from the HID kit.
Here is a picture showing the 9005 high beam bulb installed in the Projector headlight assembly. It looks pretty cool.
Now that the HID bulbs are installed, I connected the CCFL Halo wires from the Projector headlight assembly to the CCFL Inverter that came with the headlight assembly. There are specific snap-on connectors on the end of the white CCFL Halo wires from the projector headlight assembly and the white wires from the CCFL Inverter. I then used a heat gun to shrink the heat shrink wrap around the connection.
Then, I used Quik-Clamps to connect the red and black wires from the CCFL Inverter to a set of white and black LED wires from the projector headlight assembly. I wrapped the connection in black electrical tape to make sure it stays secure and dry.
Now that all the wiring for installing the HID kits into the projector headlight assembly is finished, it is time to head out to my truck and install the lights. The hardest part of the whole installation into the truck process was finding a place to secure the ballasts, error code eliminators, and load resistors for the LED turn signal bulbs and attaching them to the truck.
To start the installation process, I had to remove the stock headlights. First, I removed the plastic cover which covers the space between the grill and the radiator. There are 6 tabs that need to be removed. They are a little difficult to remove, but you just have to pull up hard on the plastic cover. Set the cover aside.
Then, I removed the grill. It is connected at the top to the radiator with 4 10mm bolts. Remove them and the grill will tilt out. Firmly pull out on the bottom of the grill to release the tabs holding the bottom of the grill in. Be careful not to break the grill, but you do have to pull it out firmly to get the tabs to release. Picture with grill removed.
On the front edge of the headlight, there are 2 10mm bolts securing the headlight to the truck. Remove them. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture but they are easy to see when the grill is removed.
Next, at the front of the wheel well, there are 2 8mm bolts that need to be removed. I removed them so I could get access to the white tab behind the headlight that holds the headlight in. Remove the 2 8mm bolts and pull the plastic wheel well cover back. This will give you access to the white tab.
Next, reach under the wheel well cover, find the white tab and push it up. This will release the headlight so you can remove it. Have someone hold the headlight in place while you release the tab. You don't want the headlight to fall out and break and scratch up the front of your truck.
Then, I pulled the stock headlight out from its spot, unplugged the wires and removed the stock headlight.
Now that the stock headlight is removed, I could start installing my new Spyder Projector headlights and LED turn signal bulbs.
First I installed the LED turn signal bulbs. I removed the old bulb and inserted the LED bulb into its place. I checked and sure enough, the LED bulb hyperflashed so I had to install the load resistor. I found a place on the truck frame to secure the load resistor and attached it to the truck. Using a volt meter, I found the truck's turn signal wire and using Quik-clamps attached the wires from the load resistor to the turn signal and negative wires. You can find a wiring diagram from the company you purchase the load resistors from. It is pretty easy though. On wire attaches to the negative wire and the other wire attaches to the turn signal wire. This took care of the hyperflashing.
Then, I removed the HID high and low kits' ballasts and error code eliminators from the projector headlight assembly and found places to secure them onto the truck frame very near the place where the headlight assembly sits. I secured the ballasts and error code eliminators for both the high and low beam kits with 3m two-sided tape and zip ties.
I then took the 2 white positive LED wires from the projector headlight assembly and attached a single male 18 gauge wire tab to them, crimped it and wrapped it with electrical tape. I did the same to the 2 black negative LED wires from the projector headlight assembly. I attached a female wire tab to a spare piece of red 18 gauge wire and, using a Quik-clamp, spliced it into the parking light wire of the truck's turn signal wiring wires. I attached another female wire tab to a spare piece of black 18 guage wire and, using a Quik-clamp, spliced it into the negative wire of the truck's turn signal wiring wires. Sorry, I forgot to take pics of this step. There are several YouTube videos of how to do this though.
Then I brought the new Spyder projector headlights assembly up to the truck and reattached the high and low HID kit wires to the ballasts and error code eliminators. I attached the white and black LED wires from the projector headlight assembly to the red and black 18 guage wires I spiced into the truck's parking light and negative wires. I plugged the white wires' male end into the red wire's female end and the black wires' male end into the black wire's female end. I then attached the projector headlight assembly Y-Harness plug to the truck's headlight wiring connector. On my 2011, this connector is green.
Sorry, I forgot to take pics of these steps, but the connections are pretty self-explanatory again due to the ends of the wires.
I then had my helper hold the headlight assembly while I turned on and tried out the headlights. Halos and LEDs worked. Low beams worked. High beam worked. Turn signals worked. Everything worked perfectly.
So, I secured the CCFL Inverter to the truck frame using 3M two-sided tape and zip ties. I then pushed all of the wires into the headlight area and inserted the new headlight assembly into its space. Once it was inserted properly, I reached under the wheel well and pulled the white tab to secure the headlight in place. Then I attached the 2 10mm bolts on the front of the headlight and tried them out again. I put the wheel well plastic cover back in place and secured it with the 2 8mm bolts.
Here are pics with one side in.
I then repeated the same procedure on the other side. Checked everything several times. Everything worked perfectly, so I put the grill back on. Attached the bottom first. Make sure the tabs all insert properly and then secure the grill with the 4 10mm bolts. Then I attached the plastic cover by pushing the 6 plastic retainer pins into their places.
Here is the final result it you didn't see my post on Thursday when I installed the lights.
I hope this helps anyone thinking about doing this upgrade. I think it really adds to the looks and visibility of the truck. If you like the step-by-step how-to guide, rep points are always appreciated. If you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I might be able to help.
Just wondering how much did these headlight mods cost you?
Spyder Projector CCFL Halo Headlights - $270.
High and low beam HID Kits with Error code eliminators - $100 plus shipping.
LED turn signal bulbs and load resistors - $45
Miscellaneous ties, clamps, etc. ~ $25
Total less than $450
Look of the truck with new headlights and HID kits installed - priceless.:LOL:
Where did you get the error code eliminators? I just ordered the same headlights and hid kit. I bought an hid kit for the fog lights, do you know if an error code eliminator is needed for that too? Thank you
I ordered on set of error code eliminators for the H1 low beam kit from DDM Tuning when I purchased my HID kits. Error code eliminators are not needed for the fog lights. The tech at DDM Tuning told me error code eliminators weren't needed for the high beams either. But several people on the Forumz have said they were necessary for the high beam on our trucks. I ordered my second set off of a dealer on EBay. The dealer had good ratings and free delivery. http://stores.ebay.com/Autolizer?_trksid=p4340.l2563
Hope this helps and feel free to ask me any more questions.
sell me your stock lights??
cbrambo497 - I responded to your PM.
Nice write up Niko. So hid kits from DDM were 100 each kit or for both kits? this included error elims? what kalvin rating did you go with 6000k or 8000k? Halos look pretty bright, are you happy with the output? Thanks and Rep to you for the time and effort on the how to
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