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-   -   Big Three Upgrade and TPS question (http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=95079)

Nesto1000 10-24-2011 09:12 PM

Big Three Upgrade and TPS question
 
Hey guys, I'm not much of a DIY'er but I wanted to try n do the big three upgrade on my truck. Recently I installed a sound system in my truck and I get very light dimming in my headlights at night when the bass hits... It's not a big deal but it still annoys me tho...
I want to upgrade the wires to 1/0 Gauge, but I'm not sure on which ones to change out... I'd appreciate a little help on that. Pictures would be wonderful for me! Those help me out a lot...

On to my second question, recently my truck kept stalling when I was backing up, so I cleaned out the throttle body, well I half assed it. Anyways the truck doesn't stall anymore, but now I get check engine light and it's the TPS sensor. I think that I might have put it on wrong. Any insights on that? Oh and I checked to see if anything was wrong with it with a volt meter i think it's called and it seems to be fine...

Edit: I forgot to add that I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L 2wd

RedRam10 10-27-2011 10:59 PM

Hi, I wish I had the answer - but at least I can :icon_bump: this so someone might be able to help!

HodgieHunter 10-28-2011 10:24 PM

is it shifting rough at all ?
if so would deff be the tps and they are easy to put on wrong and take the battery cables off let set 15mins to an hour then reconnect to clear check engine light when u took off tps to clean u didnt take the battery cables of did u ?

CdnoilRAM 10-28-2011 10:30 PM

Big 3 upgrade:

Alternator to Fuse Box
Fuse Box to +Battery
-Battery to Ground

This allows the maximum current flow from the power supply, through all the devices, and back to the battery. You should also remember to put a fuse or breaker as close to the alternator as possible as you are removing the OEM fusable link. You want to put a fuse big enough to handle the output of your alternator at max RPM; and I believe the OEM for the '03s was in the 130-140amp range.

icephreaq 10-31-2011 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CdnoilRAM (Post 645716)
Big 3 upgrade:

Alternator to Fuse Box
Fuse Box to +Battery
-Battery to Ground

This allows the maximum current flow from the power supply, through all the devices, and back to the battery. You should also remember to put a fuse or breaker as close to the alternator as possible as you are removing the OEM fusable link. You want to put a fuse big enough to handle the output of your alternator at max RPM; and I believe the OEM for the '03s was in the 130-140amp range.

I've got a noticable flicker in my headlights when my truck is idling and when I roll the windows up or down. I've upgraded pretty much all of the lighting with LEDs and installed OEM foglights and Hella 500FF driving lights. Do you think that the "Big 3" will help fix the flicker?

2k84by 11-20-2011 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CdnoilRAM (Post 645716)
Big 3 upgrade:

Alternator to Fuse Box
Fuse Box to +Battery
-Battery to Ground

I thought it went
Alt to Batt
Batt (-) to chassis ground
Engine to chassis or Batt (-)

I was always under the impression alt to fuse was more along the lines of the "big 5" along with batt (+) to fuse.

I guess you can never have too much though.


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