Thread: Balljoints
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:57 PM
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the persuader the persuader is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: College Station, TX
Age: 23
Posts: 800
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2001 Cummins 4x4
Trim Level: SLT Laramie
Color: Red
Engine: 2001-2003 359ci (5.9L HO) Cummins ISB 24-Valve Diesel I6 245hp 505lb/ft (6-Speed Manual)
Rep Power: 3
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Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
That's a pretty serious project you're undertaking and you'll need a couple of special tools. Since you're already replacing one hub, you don't have to fear destroying it in the process of removing it, so I would suggest you do that one first to get an idea of what it takes to get it out. I would make sure I at least had access to a second bearing in case you have to destroy both to get them out. I made a tool that can be used in conjunction with a puller to remove these hubs. It's simply a shallow 1/2 drive socket that fits the hub bolts and a 1/2 inch drive 3 inch extension. It's used by placing the socket on the bolt after loosening them about 1/2 inch and then turning the wheel and trapping the tool between the bolt and axle housing. With the engine running, continue turning the wheel and they hydraulic pressure will help force the hub out. On a diesel powered truck, this is done at idle but in a gasser. you'll likely need the help of a HD hub puller as well.
ah... I have done front suspension work on 2wd IFS trucks, but didn't realize ball joints would be that much harder on a SFA.

I got my truck back, they ended up replacing the passenger hub. The quote for the balljoints was $795 + alignment at $90...
2001 2500 QCLB Cummins NV5600 4x4 - Fass Titanium 150 - 4" Turbo back w/ 4" downpipe - front and rear replacements - American Racing 16x10 - 33" BFG A/T
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