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Old 03-21-2013, 05:12 PM
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CdnoilRAM CdnoilRAM is offline
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Default 2013 projector light harness for non-projector swap

I finally built my first harness for my 2013 projector swap! I only put one together for now so I can experiment with the 2 remaining pin circuits that may not be required.

As it stands, I spent a lot more doing this than I really should have. do NOT buy the wiring/pin combo from Volkswagen, it's a complete rip off since you can piece them together for SOOOOOO much cheaper.

The parts list is as follows:

VW 1J0973737
14 pin connector x2
VW N10335807 1.5mm female pins small x8
VW N90684405 2.8mm female pins large x6
Mopar 68193062AA wiring jumper x 4
Led load resistor (I used a 50W that I had left over from a previous LED install) x2

I ordered my stuff directly from the local VW dealership and paid a lot more because of it. They will also told me that the pins could only be bought attached to wiring, and unfortunately I fell for it and paid the rectal-tearing price of $27 per pair!

I have linked the parts to the cheapest online dealers I could find, the pins need to be ordered in batches of 25 though, which is fine for me since I've been asked by my local dealership to build a few harnesses for some of their clients that are VERY interested in doing this swap.

Now, the process is straightforward. I got the circuit diagram from the dealership so I'd have a good reference for the '13 projectors. I had played trial and error and got some tips from other members on pin identification, and I was just confirming with the diagram. Luckily the VW plug casing actually has the numbers on each pin port, so I am using those accordingly.

So, when you get the Mopar harness, it will look like this

You need to cut just the plug end off all 4 so you end up with just this:

There are two separate plugs you are wiring into on the non-projector wiring, a main bulb harness (high, low, ground) and a secondary harness (turn, park, and ground). When you connect the pins, I recommend using a pin crimper, but if you don't have one, then feel free to use a regular set of wire strippers and just clamp one side of each pin at a time. I soldered each connection in addition to crimping because I'm anal retentive like that.

The main bulb harness should get 2 of the large 2.8mm pins on the black and white/blue wires. Now, I have been told that on the '13s the projector will still be active with the highs but with a different cutoff, this is triggered by the #1 pin called the High Beam Headlamp Relay Control, so we split the white/green wire, one side gets a 2.8mm and the other gets a 1.5mm.

The 1.5mm pin goes into the #1 (shutter), the white/blue is #5 (projector/low beam), the 2.8mm white/green is #7 (high beam), the black is #7 (ground). Now, I have heard that the later 4th gens may begin to hum doing this split, if that's the case, remotely trigger the #1 wire with a relay powered off the battery. I'm doing my swap to an '09 and I don't have any issues.

The secondary harness is a bit more involved and since we're using the pre'13 headlamp harness the ground is NOT black! The white/green wire will get a 1.5mm pin, then you need to splice a load resistor across the white/blue and black wire, which both get 1.5mm pins. The resistor I used has a red and black wire, so I wired it accordingly (just so it makes sense to me since the resistor is non-directional).

Now, the white/blue wire goes to #13 (ground), the white/green is #12 (park), and the black is #2 (turn). The extra wires you see are for experimentation only. One is the projector assembly's DRL circuit and the other is the fault circuit. I don't think I'll need either of them, but I'm curious. You can swap the white/green and black wires if you want and get a brighter turn signal, but I wired it this way as it activates the LEDs behind the reflector in addition to one of the LED banks.

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