DODGE RAM FORUM - Ram Forums & Owners Club! - Ram Truck Forum - View Single Post - tranny flush
Thread: tranny flush
View Single Post
Old 05-13-2013, 08:45 AM
TransEngineer TransEngineer is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grass Lake, MI
Posts: 2,131
Gender: Male
Vehicle: N/A
Rep Power: 8
TransEngineer is a glorious beacon of lightTransEngineer is a glorious beacon of lightTransEngineer is a glorious beacon of lightTransEngineer is a glorious beacon of lightTransEngineer is a glorious beacon of lightTransEngineer is a glorious beacon of light

When changing your fluid and filters, any fluid that is labeled as MEETING the ATF+4 spec will work fine. Do not use fluids that are marketed as "replacement for" or "compatible with" ATF+4 (etc.). Some dealers stock Mopar ATF+4 in bulk (55 gallon drums). Last time I checked, this bulk fluid (sold by the quart) cost $5.15 list per quart. So you could check with your dealer and see if you can bring your own jug and buy some that way. The part number (for one quart of bulk fluid) is 68055894AA. Or see if you can find it cheaper at your local parts store, Wal-Mart, etc.

Changing the fluid and filters should not cause a trans to get screwed up, UNLESS one of the filters (usually, the main sump filter) is installed incorrectly. The main sump filter has a snout that plugs into a bore in the pump housing. There is a seal at this connection (which is pressed into the pump bore). If the old seal is OK (no cuts or nicks, and won't easily pop out) then leave it in and re-use it. If you replace the seal, the new seal MUST be installed into the pump bore, and tapped in flush against the casting all the way around (not cocked). Do NOT put the seal on the filter snout!! The other filter (the spin-on one) goes on like a conventional engine oil filter. Spin it in until the gasket contacts the case face, then turn it another 1/2 turn or so BY HAND until it's snug. Do NOT overtorque it, since the threaded snout on this filter is plastic and will crack if you crank it down too tight.

You can actually "flush" your own trans if you want. Here is how to do it with an RFE-series trans (545RFE / 65RFE / 66RFE / 68RFE): First, do a fluid drain and refill (and filter change) by dropping the oil pan. Then, you need to get the old oil out of the converter. When running in Park (or Neutral), oil from the converter is sent to the cooler. So you can disconnect one of the cooler lines and then pump out the converter by idling it in Park. But you don't want to run the trans dry. You also need to PLUG the other side of the cooler line (the return side) because otherwise the pump will suck air through that line. Note that the UPPER line at the trans is "to cooler" and the lower line is the return line.

On an RFE trans, you can typically run it down about 1 gallon low before the pump starts sucking air. So overfill it by 1 quart, and then do the pump-out-the-cooler-line routine until you've drained 4 quarts. That should leave you 3 quarts low. Refill and repeat.

The diesel (68RFE) converter holds just a hair under 2 gallons. Gas engine converters hold less than that. So draining two gallons out the cooler line should flush out the converter pretty well.
Reply With Quote