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Old 07-01-2013, 08:54 AM
tev9999 tev9999 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARTYBOY424 View Post
Dealers have taken up some pretty deceptive practices since I bought my 2009 RAM. When I bought that one, all the websites had them listed and then had the "Dealer Cost" and that was literally the cost that you could haggle down a little bit. I went to look at a RAM Friday and the "Dealer Cost" was apparently only for me if I owned a VW, Tractor and went to Vietnam then stayed in the military for 20 years... I got angry and walked out.

So, there's a Ram that I like at another Dealer who's actually listing the "Dealer Cost" with the rebates that 99% of customers actually qualify for. It's a Tradesmen Package truck with a base of 33,300 and with options Totals out at 38,620. Dealer Cost says 3,300 off of that. My only issue is that if there are actually people (even if it's one guy in the state) who qualifies for $7500 in rebates, then that directly affects my depreciation value. No matter what, my truck has to lose $7500 of value the day I take it home because someone else in the state will break even at that price (before haggling, that's just with rebates)

What do you guys think I should realistically go into the Dealer expecting to pay? I have a 12 Wrangler that I will be trading in, so I will qualify for any trade incentive rebate, but other than that. I'm just a normal guy, not a realtor, LEO, Military, Tractor Driving VW owner.

Also, the Tradesman is a 4x4 Crew Cab with the 3.6 and 8 speed with the Rambox and backup camera. The one thing I really don't want that's optioned on it which I'm not sure if I can have them keep? Is the Chrome steps that are $500, I've never liked them or needed them. Located in MA

Thanks,
Ignore advertising - that is always used to lure you in. Same with airfares that are "one way before taxes" and "buy one get two free (just pay processing and shipping)" gadgets on late night TV. Any "dealer cost" they publish is a lie - there are all kinds of hold-backs and kickbacks from Chrysler that they will never disclose. Invoice is about the best you will have to work with.

You need to know the pricing and rebates as good or better than the dealer. I had to teach several of them about the $500 supplier affiliate rebate that is out there. Go to truecar.com and nadaguides.com and see what other people are paying and know your invoice pricing and all the rebates you qualify for.

Haggle against invoice price and dealer document fees - everything else is fixed. They don't care about rebates since they come from Chrysler and every dealer can give you the exact same ones. Sales tax and plate fees are determined by your state, so there is no point in talking about those either. Demand dealers give you the selling price and their document fees - these are the only things they control (at least directly in the price).

When I bought last week, I e-mailed 30+ dealers after visiting three dealers personally. I already had a $1000 off invoice certificate from True Car, which was about 2.5% below invoice based on what I wanted. I told dealers they had to beat 3% below invoice to get my business. They also had to give me the sales price and document fees or I would not consider their quote.

12 dealers wanted to play. That got reduced to eight because three didn't meet my option requirements and the fourth was a total sleazebag that tried to pull a bait and switch on me. They ranged from 1.6% to 3.6% below invoice. I then went back to two dealers I had visited personally since they had trucks on their lot. The first would only do 2% off. The second came in at almost 4%. I had the best feeling about them to begin with, so immediately locked that one in - without ever seeing that particular truck.

The other areas they can screw you are in financing and trades. If you can pre-qualify for financing it is a huge help since they can't push you into a bad loan to get the profit that way. I got 1.74% through PenFed credit union. I would have given the winning dealer the chance to finance, but they said there was no way they could touch it so we never bothered.

For trades you just need to shop it around and know what it is worth - being sure to include that in your calculations. In my case the dealer with the best price also offered me the best on my trade.
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