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Old 07-13-2013, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulMys View Post
Excellent advice on this process, primo. If I may ask you one question though, how do you deal with body "creases". e.g. the "sharp" transitions like on the hood bulges or fender lines on our RAM's? Just lessen the pressure on the machine? Or work these areas very quickly? Seems as if they would be subject to more "cut" from the machine process. Anyway, thank you for all of the great info, man!
Hi Paul;

actually you are totally right in letting up on your pressure, but for a very different reason. BUT THIS IS ONLY WHEN YOUR NOT USING A ROTARY POLISHER.

If you are using a free floating spindle design machine like the PC 7424, you will need to reduce your pressure, adjust the pad angle and really work the technique in these areas, because this is exactly where this type of machine will stop working. This is what makes the machine so safe to use. These deep depressions/body lines will actually stop the pad from oscillating and without the oscillation, you will get no correction. so letting up on your pressure on the machine will usually allow the pad to oscillate again, therefore causing the correction you are looking for.

NOW, when using a DA that is a forced rotation such as the Flex, or a rotary polisher, yes, i will let up on the pressure in those same areas, but to avoid burning through the paint.

It is still very unlikely to burn through the paint with the Flex DA, because it is still a dual action machine that is rotating and oscillating and generating alot less heat. But a rotary will eat through the paint, especially where the edge of the pad can hit these areas in split seconds.

While the rotary is still kind of the king of machines in any detailing business, because they work fast, in the hands of an inexperienced user the results can be damaging. It is also very difficult to finish without holograms (buffer trails) on a rotary.

Ive been using a rotary for over 20 years and still have a hard time finishing with it. I usually always grab the Flex DA over the rotary, unless i have some serious correction that requires a wool pad, and then i will still finish with the DA. even though it takes a bit longer, the DA has been my goto tool for a long time for a few of the reasons listed here.
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