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Old 12-06-2009, 10:21 PM
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GPSHSLAX GPSHSLAX is offline
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Default Class IV hitch installation

Well ... there will be no pics of the actual install (my camera is dead and I already packed the charger) but I thought I might write a description to help with the few minor issues I ran into.

First, here are some pics of the instructions.





I'm not sure why they show safety goggles. There is no drilling or cutting of any kind, and I'm somewhat unsympathetic to anyone that puts out their eye with a tourque wrench. (My sincere appologies to anyone whom has been maimed by a horrific tourque wrench accident). Here follows the steps as they are numbered in the instructions with my notes and ideas included.

1. Remove existing trailer ball hole cap on center of bumper.

Note: If you have mounted a ball and tow from the bumper currently removing the ball.

2. Loosely install hitch with hex bolt and washer to bumper beam.

Note: You will need to slip the top edge of the hitch inside the bumper to seat it properly.

3. Insert pull wire through mounting hole and out of tube.

Notes: Remove the spare tire before doing this, it will make your life easier and you will ultimately have to anyway to get the wrench in there.

You will need to feed the pull wire through from the hitch receiver end, not the open end of the tube. I found this counterintuitive but you need the spring shaped end of the wire at the end of the tube and you will never get the narrow end of the wire through the tube and out the hole. Trust me on this.

4. Route carriage bolt and reinforcement plate through bumper beam and hitch mounting slots. (2 places)

Notes: Thread the reinforcement plate first and then screw the bolt into the spring. Don't worry about seating the plate on the bolt at this time. Pull the wire until you get the end of the bolt through the hole. Jiggle to bolt to make sure it seats in the reinforcement plate and you have the maximum amount of thread exposed.

Unscrew the pull wire carefully and be sure to keep aa finger pinning the bolt so it doesn't slip back into the tube once the wire is removed. Thread the hex flange nut from step five onto the first bolt at this time.

THIS IS IMPORTANT. If you don't keep hold of the bolt and it slips back into the tube it is lost and gone forever. Unless you have an endoscope or the super human strength to flip the truck on its side and shake the bolt out there will be no good way to retreive it.

Repeat for bolt 2.

5. Attach hex flange nut and tighten to 85 ft. lb. torque.

Tighten Bolt in step 2 to 300 ft. lb. torque.

Notes: Tighten nuts and bolts as indicated. By the way, good luck finding a torque wrench that goes to 300 foot pounds. We have about 30 autoparts shops withing a 10 mile radius of me and not a single one could I find a wrench that went over 250. I turned the handle on the one I got to two and half turns past 250 (approximately where 300 ought to be) and leaned into it with all my might. I couldn't get it to click to save my life. I then dialed it back to 250 and did it again. This time the bolt didn't budge but I got a click, so I know I'm tight to at least 250.

6. Install new bumper cap over bolt.

Notes: If the washer shifted this may be difficult. Try slipping the clip in on whatever edge has space and then rotate that clip into the tight spot. This allows you to seat each clip where there is room and rotate the cap so the whole thing ends of seated properly.



That's about all she wrote. Make sure to properly stow your spare tire and tire change equipment and your done. I know this is a pretty simple install but in the event anyone finds this usefull, there it is. Any questions feel free to post back of PM me.
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Mods: Thule Xsporter 422XT bed rack, Underrail Rhinolining, MOPAR class IV Hitch, DIY CAI, Aero Turbine 3030.
Future Mods/Wishlist: Tuner, Daystar Comfort Ride 1.5" Leveling kit, Nerf Bars, Police style push bumper with light guards, KC or Thule trail lights, HID projector lights.
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