Originally Posted by DAA
Some excellent things to think about in your post and all well presented.
Whoa, whoa, whoa there big fella! As a simple blanket statement, which is how you presented it, that is patently false. Incorrect. Wrong!
It very much depends on WHICH engine and WHICH synthetic oil. Not all engines are engineered the same and not all oils (synth or dino) are engineered the same either.
A synthetic which might provide superb wear protection for one engine, just might kill the lobes on a flat tappet motor in a hurry, especially considering the very low levels of ZDDP's in most synthetics.
What I took away from Irv's post, and I'm in agreement with him on this, is that there really isn't any need for "opinion" or speculation on this subject. There is data, science, facts, all available for the very low cost of regular UOA's that you can use.
Personally, I'll take a few UOA's over all the opinions, anecdotal evidence and internet expertise in the world.
Well said DAA.
My guess is most on here are unaware that the synthetic they use isn't likely synthetic at all, but rather a Type 3 POA?
Years ago (Google it) Mobil took Castrol to court because Castrol was calling their type 3 Dino oil synthetic.
Mobil pleaded their case but the judge overseeing the matter didn't agree, due to lack of knowledge imo, and threw the case out more or less.
Since then many have been claiming their oil is full or true synthetic when in fact it isn't, it is nothing more than a type 3 dino oil.
My personal opinion on this is that type 3 is a very good oil, but synthetic it is not, but that also depends on who manu's it and what additive pkg they use.
Like you mentioned, the only true way of knowing what you are paying for and how good it is, is to actually get some UOA's done or at least look at some VOA's before purchasing it.