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Old 11-13-2013, 07:23 PM
IN2H2O's Avatar
IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: North Charleston, SC
Age: 40
Posts: 227
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2003 Dodge Ram 1500
Trim Level: ST
Color: Red
Engine: 2002-2008 226ci (3.7L) Magnum/PowerTech V6 215hp 235lb/ft
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I took some vacation from work and decided to use some of the time off to finally finish up the last couple loose ends from this project and make a few more tweaks.

First off was to swap the feeds to the cigar lighter and power outlet. I have my Wilson cell booster plugged into the power outlet and much prefer that it turns off with the key. I swapped the pins in the C219 connector under the dash as it was the simplest solution.

Next I ran the last two wires from the ICM to under the dash to get the heated mirror feature working. I had previously added the missing wires from the ICM harness and really only had to extend them into the cab and plug them into the C219 and C219 connectors. The cab side already had the necessary wires installed. The drivers side works great but it looks like there is something wrong with the element inside the passenger mirror.

I got a line on a set of OEM power mirrors to replace these cheap aftermarket ones I bought off ebay as they are cheap garbage. The lenses are not true which causes a skewed image, the lenses are not stable and vibrate while driving which makes viewing very difficult plus the lenses move too easily so they are constantly needed to be readjusted. What can I say, you get what you pay for.

Then I installed the headlight switch module with the fog lamp switch so I could complete my driving light setup. After adding the output wire from the ICM, I added a second relay to the OEM fog lamp circuit to reverse the signal and turn my driving lights on with my high beams instead of my low beams. Since I use 100w aircraft landing lights for driving lights, it makes more sense to have them on with the high beams and to be able to kick them down as fast as possible so as to not blind other drivers. With great Lumens comes great responsibility...

Lastly, I removed 3 temporary fuse holders attached directly to the battery and wired them in to the correct OEM fuse positions in the power center. I had direct wired the power seats, trailer power and amplifier feeds to the battery to wrap up the install sooner but I hated the clutter and the extra wires on the battery. I was also popping power seat fuses since the biggest external fuse holder I could run was a 30 amp. The OEM position is a 50 amp and takes the big oversized fuses.

The last thing I have to do if I ever get the initiative again is to replace the Aux jack outlet I installed. The switching jack I installed does not work all the time so I am going to replace it with a small micro switch and a standard plug. This way I can leave my aux cable plugged in all the time and just flip a switch to toggle between the aux jack and Sirius Receiver.
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