Originally Posted by CdnoilRAM
What kind of set up do you have 03? I really don't know that much about it, aside from different NO2/fuel nozzle sizes, TBS porting, and needing a bottle warmer. I'd probably want a purge as well, but what all else do you need? Specific regulator or is the open bottle enough with the nozzles, what diameter line, do you need a moisture trap? When active, is it continuous injection or just a one time thing? Can you run water/methanol AND nitrous, or is that just for diesels, to keep the EGTs down.
I've toyed with the idea, but just wonder about the practicality with dealing with the Alberta winters and maintenance on the system.
I don’t have a whole bunch of time but let me see if I can answer your questions. my system I run a "brand X" system from nitrousoutlet.com in the basic kit you will get a nitrous bottle, a main feed line, a nitrous solenoid, a fuel solenoid, a fuel feed line, and a nitrous and fuel output line, a nozzle, jets, and a few relays and switches. that’s a basic kit that you will get from NX, NOS, Edelbrock ect...... with Zex being the exception they will intrigrate the solenoids into a box they call the "Nitrous management unit" (NMU for short) I then added on to my kit. I added a second bottle (so that if the racing is good I don’t have to stop when the first bottle goes dry) you will "need" a bottle pressure gauge, heater, purge, and fuel pressure safety switch (FPSS for short) I say you "need" these things but to make the kit work you do not. But to run a safe and optimal system you do. Personally I would not run a nitrous system without them.
Now let’s talk a little about the use of nitrous. Nitrous is a safe way to add HP. Nitrous is a safe gas to use. Lets talk a little about how nitrous works. Nitrous is made up of 2 nitrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. So for ease of conversation its 33% oxygen. Nitrogen is an inert gas, it’s not flammable and it’s not reactive to any known chemicals out there. The boiling point of N2O is -150 something degrees (this is the point that nitrous turns from a liquid to a gas) when a gas is compressed (in this case above 900PSI) it turns to a liquid. For our application we want liquid nitrous oxide. Because it is more dense than a gas. Nitrous oxide will cool the incoming air charge into a motor, and be beneficial when running on a hot race track (if its 100 degrees outside it really does not matter as the 100 degree air will mix with the -150 something nitrous and it will instantly drop the incoming air temp) now as the nitrous enters the combustion chamber (that is around 500-900 degrees the extreme temperature change separated the nitrogen and oxygen atoms and allows the added oxygen to burn. This is what helps with the added power. (Remember nitrous Oxide does not add power it just adds more oxygen to the motor to allow more fuel to be burnt in turn making more power)
On to nitrous, and your questions. Most applications you can get away running an an-4 line from the bottle to the solenoid (and from the fuel rail to the solenoid) the outlet of the solenoid is usually an an-3 line to the nozzle or plate system. This is standard on most kits that you can buy under 400hp. Once you get over 400 hp it will step up to an an-6.
You will not need a moisture trap as there is no humidity in nitrous oxide it is solely nitrogen and oxygen besides that most moisture traps are only rated for 250PSI max and nitrous pressures are in the 900-1200psi range.
When you “hit the button” nitrous will flow from the bottle to your motor. It will continue to flow for as long as you stay on it. (or until the bottle is empty) but you really should not use it in bursts longer than 30 seconds, because the pistons will get really hot and cause a failure after that point. It’s not a one time use thing. You can usually get several passes out of a bottle. I can get 4 good passes on one bottle then I start to slow down if I keep using it. After that the pressure starts to drop off rapidly and you will begin to slow down. But the number of passes you can get per bottle is dependant on how big of a shot you run. Because the more nitrous you consume per pass, the faster you will go though it. A bottle will be good for aprox 7-8 runs with a 75 shot and good for 1-2 runs on a 350 shot.
You can run water/meth and use nitrous at the same time, but why? The main reason for water/meth is to add a cooling agent to the intake charge as well as up the octane rating to resist detonation. And when you have a properly tuned nitrous system your either going to run high octane gas, or pull timing, (that will stop the detonation) and the nitrous will cool the intake charge. So its sort of point less to run water/meth and nitrous. But still possible.
There should not be a problem dealing with the winters up there. You can leave the system fully connected. And will not have anything to worry about you will be way low on bottle pressure in the winter though, and honestly I don’t see a need for it in the ice and snow it will just cause you to loose way too much traction.
Now on the legal side of things, you can transport nitrous in your truck in ALL 50 states, however it is not permitted for street use, so if you keep the main feed line disconnected from the bottle, you have completely turned off the system. And should be fine driving back and fourth to the track. I drove around in the land of “do not modify anything” California with no tailgate, and the bottles in the bed of my truck. I never once got messed with for having it in there, but I had the main feed line disconnected and a red cap on the end of the line lying in clear sight of the back of the truck. I personally would just ask your local department of motor vechles, and they can tell you the legal way to go to and from the track.