View Single Post
  #9  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:57 PM
johnny0874 johnny0874 is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Newcomer
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Age: 40
Posts: 25
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 1994 ram 2500
Trim Level: larime
Color: multiple
Engine: 1994-1995 359ci (5.9L) Cummins 12-valve Diesel I6 175hp 420lb/ft(manual), 160hp 400lb/ft(auto)
Rep Power: 0
Rep:47
johnny0874 is on a distinguished road
Default News from the fornt...

Sorry I've been slacking for anyone who is following my thread... I've been working all weekend in the cold (I help run a paintball field on the weekends)... Anyway... I have been tweaking the sound on my system, and I have to admit... those coaxes in the dash are probably the best sound I've ever had for the kind of music I listen to (Rock & Country). I haven't bothered to cross them over yet, and thus I have the gain cut back to less than half... but they CRANK and they meld perfectly with the sub/guitar speaker I'm using for now... I have a lot of work left to do still before I'll call it done (if I ever call it done).

Last Friday I managed to repair all 3 of my power caps (they were stripped out and one had a broken off bolt in the hole... that was a loooong day). Anyway, I'm running all 3 caps (1/4, 1/3, and 1/2... for a total of approximately 1.08 farads. That's enough for 1080 watts (when all my amps are in and running at max, I'll be pushing about 1040 watts, so it's a perfect match). I need to get some circuit breakers (I'm only currently running a master fuse, and no independent fuses per amp... I don't like that so much).

I'm running 4ga from the battery back to the caps and then they all split off to 8ga. The cap has a 1/0 ground that is less than 18" long: just to be safe. All of the power and signal/speaker cabling is separate (they can cross but not run parallel to minimize any noise, even though all my signal cable is double shielded, it's an old habit from working avionics for a long time to split up cables into signal categories). I ran snake skin and heat shrink over everything. The only thing I am not happy with on this install is that 99% of it is hidden out of sight... so it feels a little like wasted effort. LOL

The amp remote leads are all run on individual switches... so that I can turn things off and on as I desire. Sometimes I like to just listen to the factory speakers with a little sub... Sometimes i want the whole shebang. Once I Install the 8"s that won't be an option anymore until I get the A-pillars installed. They will be wired up so that I can listen to the deck with no power (no amps) and at lower volume levels (I listen to a lot of audio books when I drive).

Tomorrow (after I'm done with my chores) I am going ot snatch the dash back off to make some tweaks. The trim ring doesn't sit exactly flush, so I need to shave the dash a little to fix that... the place i mounted the driver's side plate is too far back (I thought i had it right, but I must have moved it without thinking while I was getting ready to glass it in). The easiest fix is to trim the instrument cluster house. I believe the back half of it is empty space... so tomorrow I'll crack open the case to verify this and then trim it as necessary and reseal it (if I think it needs it) so that the 5"x7" will set flush. Then I need to put some wood blocks onto it so the speakers will have something to screw down to. I need to do this to the lower dash structure as well, because a lot of the little "captive" nuts are missing... so after you install the dash a few times to fit check it, the screws no longer have tension on them (ie the bite on the screw is gone). I have been playing with the idea of using plastic blocks (I have some poly material that would work good... it cuts and shapes really easy).

Once all the tweaks are done, I'll start wrapping the dash in the vinyl I bought and then fab up some trim rings for the speakers with grill cloth stretched across them... I also still need to sand and paint the lower dash where it was repaired.

Once that is done I'll call the dash good to go (except I still need to hi-pass the speakers at 200 hz or so).

The doors are getting a pair of lanzar VX830 8"s that will run in stereo on the bridged eclipse 32440(2x240watts rms at ohms) and crossed over at 50hz-80hz. When I do this, I'm going to low pass the 12" that's in the cab now down to 50 or 60 hz. I just want it to fill in the missing tones below 50hz. One of the control boxes that is coming has a boost at 20 hz of 0-12bd. So that, plus the 45hz (o-12db) boost on the amp will be able to let me really shape the sound of that little sub.

The A-pillars (which have not been started yet beyond basic repairs) will get a set of 3" extended range speakers made by peerless (They make Pro Audio drivers and the like). They are 20 watts and 8 ohms, and the fosgate tweeters are rated for 50watts at 4 ohms... (on the same power, they should be approximately equivalent power handling and volume... or so I hope)... so I'll mount the 3"s and the Fosgate tweeters in the A-pillars as high up as I can get them, and power them off the deck (22 watts rms x 4). I'll definitely play with locations and sound stage before I do too much with them.

I am definitely going to order a new sub (probably a single 15" or a pair of 10"s). The center console project is probably going to take me a while since i have 5 days to finish everything, plus clean up all the mess because classes start again on the 18th and i work the weekends.


The last thing I want to do is use the open space where the cupholder used to be to mount a couple of 1/2 din Lanzar control boxes and (EQ & EQ/X-over).

Anyway... I've rambled long enough...

Here are a few more snaps of the wire job. It's not the finished product, but it's about 90% of it.











Hope anyone who is wondering about how to hook their single cab up with sound can pull from this... and for those of you who need to fix your dash... fiberglass is not hard.. just time consuming... so don't be skeeered... Just schedule some time and knock it out.


Johnny
Reply With Quote