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Old 02-12-2011, 12:06 PM
johnny0874 johnny0874 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Age: 40
Posts: 25
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 1994 ram 2500
Trim Level: larime
Color: multiple
Engine: 1994-1995 359ci (5.9L) Cummins 12-valve Diesel I6 175hp 420lb/ft(manual), 160hp 400lb/ft(auto)
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Default yep

You are correct... the intake heaters (there are 2 grids in my truck) only operate when the sensor detects that the engine block is at a temperature lower than the preset value (I wanna say it's around 40 degrees). During months when the temps are brisk (like the last 2 and the next 2) I usually plug my truck in to keep the block temps up... but I still have to deal with the dreaded battery drain whenever I start my truck at work or at school (where it sits outside). Anyway... I had batteries that are 17 years old (they were the original batteries)... I started seeing more and more power loss from them so I installed this 3.5 farad cap on the starter circuit... it's like night and day... the truck starts EVERY TIME (I'd have to do the math but 3.5 farads is a HUGE amount of charge). Anyway... since I did this mod, I also installed a 1.5 farad cap on my stereo (to replace the 3 smaller ones I installed previously)... and I mounted 2 deep cycle batteries in the tool box with the other 1.1 farads of caps I had from before... And a switch in between the 2 circuits (one for starting with red tops and one for the stereo with blue tops) so I can isolate them when I'm at the beach or camping, etc. I also put independent power switches on each amp so I can pick which are powered and which are not... basically I have a single amp powering 8" speakers in the doors that stay on with the radio when I'm hanging at the beach... and another amp on a "truck box" that sits in the bed... so the subs and dash speakers are off and not drawing power... Basically, I can run my truck stereo with no engine power for a good 12 hours before it starts to draw down... and then flip the switch with the truck on and it recharges the batteries.

Here's a HUGE tip... you need a 3 way switch... one for connected, one for disconnected and one for charging... so you don't fry your inline fuses or your truck wiring when you reconnect a set of dead batteries and capacitors... they caps will draw a crap-load of current otherwise and you'll be looking for a new fuse for your charging circuit. LOL

Johnny
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