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Old 10-16-2011, 12:22 AM
Leadfootluke Leadfootluke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pupdawg View Post
Well here is another question then...since this vehicle is new, do I even need to clay the paint or should I just go with a good cleaner/polish then follow with colinite? If possible, reducing the steps...not trying to cheat a good finish, just making sure I am not creating more work than necessary...

This reason I am so interested in all this is I have never had a black vehicle, most of my previous ones have been white or a light color...really worried about how I preserve this paint without causing undue stress...

Thanks for all of your assistance here Luke!
Yes you do need to clay. New vehicles still have raildust from transportation, and they will have contamination from being outside, whether it is sap, mineral deposits, tar specs, iron from brakes, etc.

Preserving your finish is another thing. You will need a soap with high lubrication, 2 buckets with grit guards, proper wash media, and a proper regimen with drying. That is another topic that can be discussed at length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pupdawg View Post
Luke, you mention micromarring, would this need to be addressed with a good polish or would a sealer/wax take care of it?

Thanks for your input as well dodgert!

I have done some considerable reading on all of this lately and have read where serious enthusiasts like to clay, seal then wax... The steps of each are fairly straightforward it seams. AND, I know everyone has their tried and true performance steps to this....it ain't rocket science...LOL

Not trying to make this a difficult process, just looking for the best approach for a lasting shine...even though nothing lasts forever.
I would use a polish as you will probably see micromarring from clay on a black finish. It could be something super fine such as a finishing polish, or you could just rely on the wax/sealant to fill the marring. Just use a paint cleaner if you don't clay [put your hand in a plastic bag and run your hand over your finish to see if you feel the bumps, contaminants and if you do, you need to clay].


Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgert View Post
Wash and dry
After you clay this is my procedure

STEP 1 Adam's Severe Swirl Remover Polish with Adam's PC Severe Swirl Remover Pad or Adam's Flex Severe Swirl Remover Pad Remove Severe Paint Defects such as severe swirl, isolated scratches, problematic water etching, heavy oxidation and other more serious paint defects.
STEP 2 Adam's Swirl & Haze Remover Polish with Adam's PC Swirl & Haze Remover Polishing Pad or Adam's Flex Swirl & Haze Remover Polishing Pad Remove Moderate Paint Defects such as swirl, minor scratches, minimal water etching, paint haze, light oxidation and other less serious paint defects.
STEP 3 Adam's Fine Machine Polish with Adam's PC Fine Machine Polishing Pad or Adam's Flex Fine Machine Polishing Pad - Pre Wax Cleaning and Gloss Enhancement is your final step to paint perfection. This step will clean and prepare your paint for bonding of your car wax or paint sealant as well as enhance gloss and depth in shine for a show stopping finish.
STEP 4 Adam's Machine Super Sealant with Adam's PC Waxing Pad
long lasting protection as well as an unbeatable shine!
What other waxes/sealants, cleaners, polishes and pads have you used?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pupdawg View Post
In light of all this slightly overwhelming information... I guess I will be going forward with the following...

1. Wash
2. Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Bar
3. Wash and dry
4. IPA
4. Wolfgang Polish Enhancer
5. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
6. Colinite 845

I think this should wrap it up for me...

Thanks for the input guys! This initial run will fill in more answers than all the questions I could possible ever come up with.... I think I tried making the process more difficule than needed... KISS comes to mind...

Really nervous about protecting this black truck...seen many which were neglected and it makes me shiver...

Thanks again...
That is a good start. I have and still use Wolfgang DGPS 3.0 and it works awesome. You can apply it and leave it for hours and come back to buff it off. In all reality, washing/claying/rewashing should take about 3 hours [depending on the amount of decontamination needed]. An IPA wipedown takes maybe 5 minutes, and then sealing it take probably 20 minutes to apply it to the truck. Come back later and buff it off. The next time you wash it, I would then apply Collinite 845, as the Sealant would then have enough cure time.

You can always try a sealant/collinite on it's own for a few weeks and strip it off if you aren't happy with the looks/performance.

And if you were closer, I would have loved to help out. A few companies actually have permanent solutions. They are a scratch resistant clearcoat-esque sealant. So far, cars that use these "Coatings" as they are called, are going strong after a couple years of having this coating on, and people wash their vehicles with degreasers and dawn detergent and the protection doesn't diminish.
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