Originally Posted by Gen1dak
Having a high efficiency radiator isn't the problem. If the truck is running too cool, you should look to a faulty thermostat. If you live in really cold climates and never tow, yeah, I could see where the radiator would freeze up. Even big diesel rigs will block their grille from airflow in blizzards, but that's not the case here, is it? The lower mileage is due to the truck not getting out of the warm-up stage because it doesn't ever reach operating temp. Again, look at the thermostat. As for torque converters, doing the math is good, but on paper and real world are two different things. 2,000 rpm stall is a good minimum for these rigs. Even 2200-2400, especially if you're doing other mods. The higher stall will help the truck at around town speeds, actually improving mileage modestly since the engine is able to spool up into the powerband more easily. Agreed on aluminum driveshafts. Those things are really more for racing, not typical street (especially truck) use.
Well considering that the engine radiator is a 3 row all aluminum 1/2" tube and the thermostat is new and the engine never displayed the engine too cold for to long error until the new rad... I also live in florida however it is winter. The stock rad is copper brass 2 row 3/8 tube and of course clogged lol... I also know it's the rad because if I touch the bottom tank it's well at ambient temperature were if I touch the top tank I can burn my self easily. I am probably going to drop to a 1 row 1" aluminum. The reason I got a 3 row was because I will be doing some towing but I would be doing regular driving majority of the time so it would waste gas to run rich all the time. I am going to have to do some more math to get an idea of BTU dissipation between the 1 and 2 row. Though they're the same because 1 row is 1" tube and 2 row is 1/2" tube but the way the fin's are setup will effect it. But yea my rad is too efficient. It will reach temp but not with the heat on and once it reaches temp if you put the heat on that needle drops out of the sky.
As for the stall speed I shaved off some of the rpm's to account for the vehicle weight. Of course the K factor is practically useless in the real world it still gives you an ideal number to play with. Of course you can use math to predict the proper stall speed with real life variables but yea each variable is different. But anyway's many people like to get converters with a 2200 stall around their, I think that is just a little to high, especially since the magnum motor is producing majority of torque and hp at a mid rpm and with the weight of the vehicles the magnum motor is in this would certain decrease. The stock speed is actually on the button in terms of average use. Finding the perfect stall speed is like finding the perfect person, not going to happen. You can only settle. The converter will typically lockup around 35 MPH which is somewhat street town speed of course if you live in NYC the speed is 0MPH! LOL. But stall speed it's really to a person's liking and of course the situation it's used in.