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Old 12-30-2011, 07:39 PM
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Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Florida USA
Posts: 1,917
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 1995 Dodge Ram B2500 Van
Trim Level: SLT - 2500
Color: Deep Molten Pearl Coat, Silver, Grey
Engine: 1994-2001 318ci (5.2L) Magnum V8 220hp
Rep Power: 5
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Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
Yeah, stall speed is an iffy prop. And with gear changes and tires, stall of the same converter will change. My Shelby Dakota has a factory high stall. At 3600 lbs and with 3.90 gears it should've at leastbeen able to lay a patch, but it could barely chirp 'em. Granted, the 5.2LA was pale, but still, 270 lbs torque in a light rear? Under brake, it'd stall at 2000. Without brake, it'd flash to about 1850. Keep in mind factory transmissions are built to the last penny and clutch material in them tend to be little better than paper unless there's some sort of HD option. A low stall speed keeps the engine from ever really getting up and going, thus making life easier on the transmission. My Dak had peak torque around 2000 and it still could've used more stall. You want the engine to be able to get into the meaty torque curve. Stall too low and it's struggling until it finally overcomes the inertia enough to really pull.
As for too efficient radiators, I cannot speak to that. I'm on the MS Gulf Coast and have never had the pleasure of that particular problem.
Yea trying to get a converter stall that is in the curve is well what a person would be after but you typically choose one that is about 400-700 RPM less of power curve RPM. I have a 1690 Stall and I can get them tires to chirp no problem. Towing isn't an issue either, 5000-6000 Lbs 32" Travel Trailer, van has no problem moving it.

As for my cooling well I should saying warming up issue, as long as I don't have the temperature selector on warm and the heat is off the engine is able to warm up, then I would have to turn the heat on but then the engine temperature drops dramatically. Of course once it's in closed loop it stays their however when that temperature drops I am loosing power and the engine is unmerciful on gas. I was thinking maybe if I up the break open temp of the thermostat but then again once that heat is turned on then it will close and the engine won't be able to heat up the coolant to proper temp. Honestly 3 row with 1/2" tube is a HUGH radiator. This thing is big. But if I do swap radiators I will probably sell my 3 row or maybe save it for another application IDK. I don't mind the engine running cold but when it effects gas mileage then I mind. Also don't want to get hot spots in the engine.
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