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Old 07-18-2009, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by LadyRam View Post
thanks for the replies...........

I have good mud flaps installed.

I don't think it could be fall out from the atmosphere as it's not on the top portion.

my truck is never parked outside and I live outside of town.

These are random spots (looks like rust spots) about the size of a pinhead or smaller.
From Autopia:

hundreds of tiny rust spots !!
I pulled the Monte Carlo out of the garage today (winter storage) and when I got it out in the sunlight I was horrified to find hundreds of tiny rust spots all over the hood and front fenders. This paint is just a little over a year old and is 2004 Corvette bright white in Duponts Chroma One with a clearcoat.
As near as I could tell the spots were the result of metal particles from grinding getting on the car while it was out of the garage for a couple of weeks while I put a new engine in the Jeep. I washed the car then hit it with a clay bar and was able to get all the spots off and it does not appear that there was any damage to the paint, but this left me with two questions.
1) How much does the type of paint come into play when determining a detailing regimen? The Chroma One is a catalyzed paint and seems to be very hard which makes me think that it will take more aggresive chemicals to condition it. Any thoughts?
2) Does anyone have opinions on a good car cover?

Corrosion (rust) destroys metal by an electro-chemical reaction with water as the catalyst (water + ozone (an oxidizer) moisture + oxygen). Corrosion arresting products are available that penetrate corrosion cells, emulsify the moisture and separates it from the metal leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect the metal from further damage.

It is not enough to simply seal over existing corrosion by moisture displacement. While this technique will prevent further contact with the electrolyte, (moisture), it also traps existing moisture under the sealant, thus allowing that corrosion to continue.

Corrosion arresting products, when applied to a moist surface, will wick the moisture through the coating to the surface. A major study on rust proofing 2-3 years ago stated that an annually applied petroleum based product offered the best protection. Rubber coating such as Ziebart were not recommended as water or moisture can be entrapped between the rubber coating and the sheet metal making matters worse and also the best time to apply the product is in the summer months contrary to the cooler fall months, this way the product remains liquid and will penetrate folds and crannies.

The cause-
Particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor.

This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of statically charged black dust, which adheres to the wheel and other vehicle surfaces. Sequestered brake dust, if left for any length of time will cause galvanic corrosion, which etches the paint surface allowing contaminants like acid rain, ozone, sulphuric acid, dioxide and nitric acids to penetrate the paint film surface.

Once the clear coat is compromised UV radiation will further degrade the paint by causing oxidation. The metallic brake dust acts as a conduit for industrial contaminants to permeate the paint film surface, that over time can cause permanent etching which, take the contaminants harmful effects (corrosion) right to the base of the paint system and down to the vehicles sheet metal.

Neutralizing –
Washing the paint film surface with a slightly alkaline car wash concentrate and thoroughly rinsing will neutralize the contaminants and remove them from the paints surface Detailer's clay removes imbedded brake dust and other contaminants by encapsulation, thereby eliminating the primary cause

By applying a suitable cleaner (Por-15® Products Marine Clean) and then a rust inhibitor (POR-15® Products) it will arrest corrosion on contact without leaving a sticky residue that would attract dirt, dust or grime. Corrosion attacks metal by an electrochemical (galvanic) reaction with water as the catalyst.

It penetrates the corrosion cells, emulsifying the moisture and separating it from the metal, leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect from further damage. Since most corrosion begins in crevices, (seams), it is important to have the capability to penetrate these crevices in order to form a protective barrier. Many heavier or more viscous products don't penetrate crevices, instead they form a `bridge', and while this may isolate the crevice from further contact with the electrolyte it does nothing to eliminate the presence of existing moisture or surface corrosion. Injection into a seam or crevice with an aerosol or spray eliminates this problem.

From Classicappreciation:
What Are Those Tiny Little Rust Spots on the Back of My Car? PDF Print E-mail

If you look really close on the rear bumper or deck lid of your white vehicle, you will most likely see tiny little spots that look like rust. Fear not! Your car is not permanently rusting. Those microscopic little rust speckles are actually iron particles or iron dust that land on the surface then, with the help of water, salt, and oxygen, the iron dust oxidizes and sticks to the paint finish. This occurs on all cars but is the most noticeable on white. The dust particles are created when you step on the brake. Each time the rotor or disc is squeezed by the brake pads to stop the car, the friction that occurs wears down the iron rotor slightly. This warm iron dust floats to the rear of your vehicle as you drive and lands on the back. Then the water, oxygen and salt go to work turning the particles to rust. The speckles can be removed, but if left on the surface for a long time, the particles start to embed themselves into the finish of your car, making removal more difficult. Frequent washing and waxing is the best way to minimize this situation.

From yahoo answers:

I have tiny rust colored spots on my brand new white car?
Could it really be rust? If so, does that mean I have a really crappy paint job? It's a 2008 Nissan Altima coupe and it's white. The spots are very small and barely noticeable but of course I noticed them today when I washed it. I have had the car for about 9 days now. Should I take it to the dealer?

what it is is a thing called industrial fallout. what it is is contaminates in the air get into the paint of new vehicles, along with rust falling off of the trasport trucks. they should have "bricked" this car while detailing it before you drove it off the lot. thats the 350 buck "prep fee" that you pay. they wash and brick the car, take all the protective plastic off, ect. what i would do is take it back to the dealer. especialy if you have only had it for a lil over a week. they should re-detail it for free since they are supposed to make sure all the fallout is off your car. if for some reason they DONT, do not panic. its not realy a big deal. go to the parts store and look for the clay bars. meguiares makes a good product. they come with a clay bar and some quick detail wax. what you want to do is wash your car, leave it wet and go around and generously spary the wax on an area. working one area at a time go over it with the clay bar. full instructions are included with the kit but that pretty much wraps it up. after you "brick" the entire car, rinse and re-wash. then shammy dry. try avioding doing it in direct sunlight though. if you must make sure you work quickly and rinse each body panel off after you clay bar it. this is all asuming that the dealer dont take care of it, which they should.

From ezinarticles:

Many of us get stuff on our cars, which will not easily come off. There is tree sap, over spray, bird droppings, rust spots and even salt marks from that stuff they put on the roads in winter; none of which is very easy to get off. It is very important for the protection of your cars clear coat and paint finish to pay careful attention when cleaning your car to remove the fallout and small Rust Spots.

You should be careful if you go to a coin-op car wash or if you use a pressure washer. It is possible to get too close to the paint and damage the finish. Generally if you blast thru a clear coat you will notice it is because there will be a pealed mark and you will rip off a large chunk of paint. Use the one-foot rule and keep the nozzle at least one foot away from the paint at all times. You should be fine, just remember the 1-foot rule and that also applies to center caps on rims. But the rest of the rims and tires you can get closer.

The best way to remove such contaminants from your car is to wax them off. Many times a polymer solvent wax (the kind which separate and are liquid, which you have to shake well before you use them-generally tan or white with liquid when you let them sit and separate out) will take the rust dots off. Or look in the Yellow Pages for AutoMagic Detailing Products and buy clay magic to take off the tiny rust spots. Take care of your cars finish so it will last and think on this in 2006.

I rest my case................
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