DODGE RAM FORUM - Ram Forums & Owners Club! - Ram Truck Forum - View Single Post - snrusnak mod thread
View Single Post
Old 04-30-2012, 08:58 PM
snrusnak's Avatar
snrusnak snrusnak is offline
Dodge Ram Forum Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando
Age: 30
Posts: 13,626
Gender: Male
Vehicle: 2010 Dodge Ram 1500
Trim Level: SLT
Color: White
Engine: 2008-20?? 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 310hp 330lb/ft
Rep Power: 15
snrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud of

That's awesome! Was it a hard install?
Not really, it was pretty easy, just takes a long time. It's just sort of uncomfortable laying under the truck doing all the work, but it's all pretty easy.

Here's basically the process(or at least how I did it):

Lift front wheels off the ground for clearance to lay under truck and have working room(block rear wheels and make sure parking brake is on).

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Unplug all electrical connections.

Unhook shifter linkage, and unbolt shifter linkage bracket.

Remove 4 exhaust bolts holding down pipes to the manifolds(this is probably one of the harder parts as one bolt is near impossible to access). Also loosen the exhaust clamp either at the y pipe or before the muffler(we did before the muffler as it was easier to slip off). Leave the exhaust loose for now.

Unbolt drive shaft from differential(4 bolts). These bolts were UNBELIEVABLY tight. This was probably the hardest part of the job on my truck. If you remove the driveshaft from the transmission it will leak fluid, so we zip tied the drive shaft to the transmission and set the rear of the shaft on a creeper(on wheels) so it would move with the transmission when we moved it around.

Remove starter(2 bolts). I zip tied the starter to the frame so I didn't have to undo the wires.

Remove flexplate access plate(8 bolts IIRC).

Unbolt the 4 torque converter bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate. Use a ratchet on the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine and flexplate to gain access to the bolts.

Remove the transmission fluid dipstick. Unbolt the dipstick tube(2 bolts). One bolt is also a bell housing bolt, the other is at the case. Slip the tube out and either remove it or push it out of the way(I zip tied it out of the way).

Position transmission jack under transmission to support it. Remove cross member bolts(4 IIRC) and transmission mount bolts(3 IIRC). Remove cross member(we had to beat it out with a hammer).

At this point the loose exhaust falls out. If you unbolt it at the y pipe you could probably take the exhaust out sooner.

Unclip the cooler lines. This is pretty self explanatory if you look at it. The caps just pop off then the clips are similar to c clips. These leak a little as well.

Remove bell housing bolts. Be careful the transmission is heavy and awkward.

Pull transmission and jack back away from the engine, lower all the way down. We only pulled it away about a foot or two, just enough to access the converter.

Pull torque converter out of transmission. This will leak a little fluid. Also, it is HEAVY.

Put new o-ring on new converter, make sure the hub is smooth(no burs, etc. that can rip the seal). Rub trans fluid on the o ring and the hub to lubricate, put some fluid in the converter(maybe a quart or two), then install. Make sure it is fully seated. You should have about 1/2" between the face of the bell housing and the torque converter. When we installed the converter, the case of the converter rubbed against the bell housing, but once you get it all bolted up and bolt the flex pate to the converter, it sucks the converter forward and it does not rub any more.

Put grease or vaseline on the front "hub" of the converter where it sits in the crankshaft.

Lift transmission on jack and position it to the engine. This is where a friend really helps out. Takes a few minutes to get it lined up, but you'll get it. Install two bolts snug to hold it in place. Install all the bell housing bolts snug then check that no wires, etc. are caught in between the bell housing and the engine (we had a ground strap caught....glad I checked). Torque the bell housing bolts. Remember the dipstick tube is held by one of these bolts, so you have to reinstall the dip stick tube at the same time.

Install the exhaust and snug the bolts. We waited until the end to torque them down since the angle of the engine slightly changes.

Reinstall cross member and transmission mount.

Once the transmission is in final position, install and torque the flex plate to torque converter bolts. I reused the bolts with some blue loctite. I actually bought new bolts but the dealer apparently gave me the wrong size.

Install inspection cover and starter.

Install cooler lines.

Reconnect all electrical connections.

Reconnect drive shaft.

Torque down the exhaust.

Top off the fluid if needed.

Check and double check and triple check everything. Reconnect battery, lower truck, etc. and fire it up. Hopefully it starts normal lol. Mine did.

This is sort of a by memory write up, but it is pretty complete I think. If I missed anything let me know and I'll edit it. It's an easy job, just takes a lot of time, there is a lot involved. Took us about 6 hours IIRC.

Breathing in and out is good enough for me.
Reply With Quote