It does not come with a schematic and I was unable to find one. I took the switch apart to figure out Hot and ground and output pins. There are no lights that come on with dash lights. When you hit the switch it will light up amber and kills power to output pin. All outputs have voltage until switch is pressed. The output is not a ground. When this setup comes from the factory it is run through an Aux power box.
Here goes, hold the switch so that the lock indent is at the top, missing pin location is bottom middle right (pin6). Pins reading left-right, top-bottom are:
8765 pin 6 is missing on the switch
or clockwise from missing pin 78 4321 5
3 Switch Output #2
4 Switch output #1
6 No pin
7 Switch output #4
8 Switch output #3
Pin 1 I believe is power to switches 1&2
Pin 5 I believe is power to switches 3&4
Be careful verifying this as one pin supplies the power for all the LEDs on the switches but not the actual switch?? (this is what I observed but my mind was fried by that point.)
This is what allows you to have one set of switches constant hot and one set ignition hot. If you want to have both ignition or both constant you just connect them both to the same source of 12 volt. They are to be fused at I believe 5 amps either way. A good source for this power is the 12 volt plugs in the dash one is constant, one is ignition hot. You can not use either of these as your power source for the relays though as they are not rated for the that much amperage.
I simply mounted 4 relays under the dash, rather than making a power distribution center under the hood. I hooked power to the relay for the switch side, and hooked the wire from the aux switch pigtail to the ground side.