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Old 07-28-2012, 05:56 PM
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Default ArmyofOne's How-To Garage: Total Load Control Install and Review

Got my TLC installed yesterday. Was fairly straightforward, but the instructions could definately be clearer. I am working with John on that and I took a LOT of pictures of what I believe could be a standard recommended install for the 2009+ Ram 1500.

Here is what I started with:



The kit contains pretty much everything you will need for a standard install with little/no modification to your truck. So, with that said, I have to say...

Check your product. TLC does an awesome job of packing things, but sometime's stuff happens. In my case, A fitting got broken off of one of my bags. No big deal, TLC John promptly sent out a replacement fitting and I was ready to go in 48 hrs. He offered to overnight it but I declined as I was not going to be able to install until yesterday and I noticed it last saturday.



To do this, you will need a jack, 2 jackstands, and a pair of 9/16 wrenches. Jack up the rear of the truck from the frame, not from the axle. This will allow the springs to unload. The tires do not have to come off of the ground, but you have to take the weight of the truck almost completely off of the coils. Once your truck is on jackstands, remove these:



Just twist and pull, no tools req'd there. In place you will install the 2 plates with the offset rubber bushings (not shown). You press them into the holes where the bump-stops were held. then, set the airbag onto the plate with the fitting facing the rear differential. Its easy and will only go in one way, so you really cant mess it up. Once the bags are in, leave the truck on jackstands, you will need it later.

Once you bolt the bags in, Decide where you want your gauge/switch/dump valve panel. I put mine inside the upper glove box, using the panel that TLC supplies with the kit. This required ZERO visible drilling into my interior. If you do not have the upper glove box equipped, then you will need to drill 2 additional holes for air lines and electrical if you install here, but if you do it right, it can be done clean and look factory. I loosened the gauge in the panel and rotated it 90 deg so that it sat vertical in the panel and I drilled 2 holes in the side of the panel itself, and used 2 self tapping screws to attach it to the plastic inside the glovebox. Be sure to place the panel far enough back that you can still close the glovebox door.



Now run your air tubing. Total Load Control uses all plastic air tubing and quick disconnect fittings. Easy to work with. As you can see in the above pic, there is a hole in the glove box already, where I ran both the Air tube and the wiring.

Remove the lower glove box entirely by opening it, and pressing inward on the sides until it slides out in your hands. Set it aside. Feed the Air tube through the hole in the upper glove box and reach in from the lower opening and grab it. Feed all but 6" or so through and leave it coiled on the passenger floorboard.

-Remove the lower trim piece (non-center console models) under the cup-holder. If you have a center console, dont worry, you can still do it this way, just takes a little longer as you have to do it by feel. Push the hose through like so:


^Driver's Floor-board to the right of the gas pedal

Pull all of the air hose through, having a buddy hold the other end and tell you when to stop, you still want 6" or so in the glove box, we will get to that in a minute. Once you have the rest of the tubing in a coil on the drivers side floorboard, its time to drill. Don't be nervous, there is a panel for this that is replaceable. Drill your hole here:



Just to the left of the steering column. That little panel there is replacable for $2.50 at your local dealer if you decide you need it for whatever reason...entirely reversible. I drilled 2 holes, the same size, for the electrical and the air tubing. Have a friend pull the air tube through until you have only a little slack. Then, tuck your air tubing under the carpet behind the pedals. Leave the interior of the truck apart and crawl underneath it. Have your buddy feed the tubing down the firewall between the firewall and the brake lines to the outside of the drivers side frame rail. DO NOT RUN THE TUBING ON THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL, IT WILL GET TOO HOT AND MELT.

Along the frame rail you will see holes already drilled. I used these to run my air lines now stop right here, and install your compressor. I used the middle cab mount bracket as you can see int he above picture. I put the compressor up there, marked where I needed to drill and drilled my holes:



Once the holes were drilled I mounted my compressor:




Be sure to use 2 of the rubber bushings provided with the compressor for the mount, otherwise your compressor will vibrate loose and sound horrible.


Now, you still should have roughly 12 feet of tube. Cut 6-8" off and install it into the compressor, and put a "Y" fitting on the end. Then pull your tubing and cut to fit with some slack and install in the Y fitting. This will operate your gauge and reliefe valve.
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Diesel Technician-PACCAR Inc.
Cummins, PACCAR, CAT, International, Detroit, ASE Certified.

2014 Mazda CX-5 Touring w/Tech Pack-6000K HID's, 20% tint, 35mpg, so I will leave it alone.
2002 Ford Focus ZTW Wagon-loaded, tinted, tunes and commuting. 163k miles and counting...


Last edited by BlueJet; 07-29-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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