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High Output Headlight.

11K views 43 replies 10 participants last post by  kevinhann 
#1 ·
Has anyone tried out high output headlights? I can find ones that are 80/100 watts but want to know if anyone else has tried something like that? And will the wires handle the extra watts?
 
#3 ·
These will melt your bulb sockets and will eventually kill your TIPM The only way you could use these is by running a wire harness made for them, but I have not seen those in a while, by the time you pickup all you need to run those bulbs safely you might as well get a HID kit made for your truck.



These are 11 Watt, just to give you an idea, my Rear Brake lights are 80 watt LED bulbs, how bright do you think 11 watt LED fronts will be?? Don't waste your money, in the long run it will cost you more than getting a HID kit with harness.

go to the lighting section, you can read up about all the stuff I just indicated.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Go to the lighting section and read the posts for QUALITY HID lights. For low beam you will want 55 watt ballasts, 5000K bulbs give off the most light. Fog lights use 35 watt ballasts, 3000K to 5000K bulbs.

Make sure you get a WIRING HARNESS with each HID kit. It gets it power directly from the battery and only uses the factory wiring to trigger a relay. Make sure it is made for the Ram truck so you don't have problems getting the lights to work. Test the lights before you install them so you know they work.

You can cheep out and get HID light kits (Ebay cheep kits) with Warning Cancellers/Error corrector that don't have a wiring harness. This will put the load and stress on your factory wiring and the TIPM module.

Google: Dodge TIPM and read the problems if you go with cheep HID kits that use Warning Cancellers/Error Corrector!

JMO.

Greg
 
#5 ·
Great advice above. Even if you make a harness using heavy gauge wire and a relay, you can actually melt your headlight housing because of the heat cretaed by the higher wattage. I melted my fogs on my car due to this and it's a $$$ lesson.

Watch out for Sylvania "Silver Star" and the like; they overdrive their filaments to produce a little more light for a given wattage, at the expense of lifespan. with how much work it is to replace our bulbs that may be a real factor to you.
I am a big fan of PIAA bulbs. The Extreme Whites put out a gorgeous white light with at least as much output as stock, with great quality.
But each to their own.
 
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#8 ·
in the subaru world the forum recommended osram sylvania (european sylvania) bulbs. they are the same wattage but put out more lumens and last longer than stock or especially silverstars. don't confuse them with the stuff we can buy here.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Have you ever noticed that each time they say in there site or adverts something along the lines of "Brightest bulb available" "no other bulb is as bright as our Osram Sylvania Bulbs" They have a * next to the statement, and if you look at the bottom of the advert or the page this is what you see written next to the *

*Compared to worn standard halogen

Any new bulb will be brighter than a worn standard halogen. yes the color is more white, but that's about it.

in case here is a link

http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/Pages/silverstar.aspx

or

http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/Pages/silverstar-ultra.aspx

Byh the way, Osram Sylvania Inc. is the North American operation of lighting manufacturer Osram. It was established in January 1993, with the acquisition of GTE’s Sylvania lighting division by Osram GmbH.[1]
 
#11 ·
that's not the ones i am talking about. on ebay they are from europe and the subaru guys have proven them for years. the 55w designation is only the power consumption , not the brightness or lumens.
 
#13 ·
nice to see people are so amiable on here
 
#14 · (Edited)
its not a question of amiability, you want to go out for a beer n/p, just post a link, many members would love to find your product that will fit what they are looking for, it has nothing to do with friendship. If you know of a product that people are praising and you also than post a link so other members can enjoy the same products you do. Thats what forums are for to share this information so others can also enjoy them, maybe some have not found what you found or tried and did not find what you are using, if you feel your product is what members are looking for, benefit them by posting a link
 
#15 ·
i wanted to but i'm pretty sure i read you can't post a link to another forum
 
#17 ·
you can post links of products from ebay, no problem, many do, even links to the products manufacture themselves is no problem, no worries. If it benefits the members here its no problem, if the moderators don't like it they will just delete the post, no big deal.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I read the results for each bulb listed in the article and they mention the test results being shown in (Bulb's Beam Rating). The best is 107.5 and the worst is 83.3 over a standard halogen bulb.

My question really is, what is (Bulb's Beam Rating) and measured with what? They didn't say from what I was able to find.

If the measurement is in (Lumens) 100 Lumens or equal to 100 candlepower is very little gain.

So in my opinion, from what I read, still comes down to the halogen bulbs change in glass and the filament used to get a different color of visible light (Kelvin).

High priced halogen bulbs for little gain.

JMO

Greg
 
#20 ·
this is what i found. earlier in the article it says Osrams from overseas.

Osram Silverstars–
So now that you know the truth about the Sylvania Silverstars and all the BAD ideas with bulbs, its time to hear about the best bulbs you can buy. They are called the 55W Ultra High Efficacy Plus 50. These bulbs include the Narva Rangepower+50, Osram Silverstar, Tungsram Megalicht or Philips VisionPlus.

These bulbs produce the maximum amount of legal light and don’t have any coatings on the outside of the bulb.

- A standard bulb produces 1550 Lumens.
- A Plus +50 bulb produces 1750 lumens.

These bulbs are manufactured with the highest quality standards and are the best legal bulbs you can put into a car. I have these bulbs in my car, and I love them. They are the brightest bulbs I have used, and highly suggest these.
 
#21 ·
Where can you get these bulbs db.

I'd be interested in a set,if they're relatively easy to get.

I have Sylvania's in my 13 quad lights,they're a little better then stock,but not by much.

Not interested in projectors ,but a plug in bulb that's better then the Sylvania's interests me
 
#22 ·
the article really didn't say but i assume ebay or maybe ebay-uk. they didn't post the source because sources change.
 
#24 · (Edited)
That thread is from 2006, over 7 years old, much has changed in the lighting industry since, if you go through the 23 pages of posts many of the links don't work anymore either, It still interesting information, and +50 bulbs have been out for a while, after reading about half the info from 06 to 2010, I still hold my personal opinion, a Halogen bulb can only put out so much Lumans per its efficiency, there is no magic wand here, color yes, better beam pattern, yes, but more Lumans at a detriment of what. Your ordinary bulb will put out X lumans for 2500-3500 hours, +50 bulbs may last only 300hrs, many of the links go dead due to the information being old, OSram released +90 night breakers in 07 and now they released the Night Breaker Unlimited,

here is Osram's current product line

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/prod...rs/halogen-headlight-lamps-for-cars/index.jsp

Now there is much more information on these new bulbs being that the +50 is a 7 year old technology. But after looking again at reviews, and youtube video's on these super bulbs, My opinion stands, Halogen bulbs will be halogen bulbs and the more efficient they become, the less long they will last and the more expensive they will be, if these bulbs were the best thing since peanut butter, then why is all the high end vehicles running HID's and now the new tech is Ultra LED's with lenses

JMO

By the way, this is not an attach on any post in the thread, it information to help members see and read more information on the interests of this thread.
 
#30 ·
Retro Shop Dot us. He will install projectors for you or sell you the parts to do it yourself.He also has HID's and all necessary wiring to make them work and not fry your TIPM. Yes they are expensive but I do not regret spending that much money for something that works. He also provides great support and is very knowledgeable.
 
#32 ·
do a projector retrofit, get either the ACURA TL projectors for a complicated retrofit but worth the output or the morimoto FX-R for an ok output but easier install. i did the TL with OSRAM CBI Bulbs 50W ballasts and clear lenses, couldn't be more pleased with the results, and i did the Xenon plug n play kit and this was way better.









Plug n play


projector retrofit
 
#33 ·
do a projector retrofit, get either the ACURA TL projectors for a complicated retrofit but worth the output or the morimoto FX-R for an ok output but easier install. i did the TL with OSRAM CBI Bulbs 50W ballasts and clear lenses, couldn't be more pleased with the results, and i did the Xenon plug n play kit and this was way better.
You did a great job and I admire your effort. :smileup:

I do a lot of MODS myself on my truck, but this one is not for a person with limited to average ability/skills. I would like to do this but I know my limits and this is on a skill level of 10 out of 10. JMHO.

Greg
 
#34 ·
I agree with kevinhann, and Asur I went the retro solutions route also and do not regret it I've had no issues in 1 year that I've had them. I have Projectors Hid's 6,000K, 55w yes they were taken apart and reassembled all the wiring was there and it was easy.


 
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#35 ·
I also did my own retrofit, but I used the Morimoto D2S Five5, I picked up a set of Headlights off ebay for my first attempt, next summer I will be modifing my OEM Set with FX-R's, and some other stuff, this is what they look like presently and I am quite happy with the D2S.
 
#36 ·
I did the morimoto fx-r first with morimoto 5five bulbs but wasn't satisfied so i went with the TL clear lens and osram cbi's and it was a huge difference, not only do the tl with clear lens smack the crap out of the morimoto fx-r but the OEM osram bulb is much brighter than the morimoto bulbs. also don't get 100w ballasts and try to use them on the morimoto fx-r i did that and it burned the whole projector and i noticed that i had left a finger print on the decorative shroud on my first retrofit that eventually burned into the chrome of the inner headlight. FYI. in my opinion the extra work for the tl is worth it oh and i used dryer vent tubing from home depot to hide the parts the shroud couldn't.
 
#44 ·
Being that i've changed a few engines both direct swap as well some challenging ones (N/A 7mge to 1jzgtte swap in a supra, 05 jeep engine in 04 jeep (crankshaft swap and intake swap required even though block was the same)) I would put this as a 3.5 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. my advise get some spare headlights (ebay, craigslist, junk yard) they can be quad or dual they are both plug n play interchangeable (FYI). that way your not rushed. oven at 225*F place a big tray with a towel over it then put in the headlight lens facing up (remove bulbs and rubber first) for 20 minutes, i found that less and chrysler's glue won't give enough for an easy disassemble. have gloves ready and 2 big flat head screw drivers, thick shirt helps too (ITS HOT). once apart use use the flat head screw driver to GENTLY!!!!! remove the reflector bucket. now look at your projector and make a smaller than the projector cut with a good rotary tool (i used a cordless dremmell) around the OEM bulb socket, you shouldn't need to go farther than the petruding circle on the back of the reflector. keep making small adjustments until the projector fits, don't go to far as you don't have much clearance. then i used steel stick from Oreilly's its a 2 part puddy that you cut and mix with your fingers (mix mix mix mix mix until it is all one color, if you don't it wont set, it gets hot as you mix it.) with the truck level and 20-40' away from a wall with a level tape line start your alignment.

it wasn't hard just take your time and be patient, if you get stuck walk away and come back after about an hour, i took all weekend for my first retro the second was done on a saturday, the third on my sisters civic took about 3 hours total.

oddly i can't build a table thats level for some reason, supper sturdy overly heavy but crooked.
 
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