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96 Dodge Suspension Lift

3K views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  RamLove 
#1 ·
Hey everyone, new to this site.

Got a couple questions about my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I am looking to lift it either 3 or 5 inches and need some advice. I know that 5" is going to cost more and be a bigger hassle to install, but I like the look of it more than 3". I guess my real question is should I have the long arm assembly, or is it unnecessary?

Also, any hints on finding strong, good-priced lifts would be fantastic.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I'm gonna forewarn you that there aren't many lifted guys with trucks as old as yours on here. A majority are 4th generation rams, next 3rd. I rarely see 2nd gen rams lifted.

That being said, someone posted a thread JUST like yours, and got no responses (it could have been in the wrong section, not sure)..not because we don't want to help...but just because there is little experience among the members here with regards to your particular truck.

I'm not saying NO ONE on here has a lifted 2nd gen. Maybe someone will see and help! Just warning you in case you don't get many responses. I wish I knew, I would help.

If it's anything like lifting the 3rd gens, i have an example for you:

4" lift by rough country: $950
6" lift by rough country: $999. <--- $50 difference, same concept of install.

I'm assuming you could body lift for 3", and some shops say that's even MORE of a pain than a suspension lift.

so, I say google is your best friend. Read reviews. Good luck! And can't wait to see this thing once you lift.
 
#4 ·
I'm assuming you could body lift for 3", and some shops say that's even MORE of a pain than a suspension lift.
I figured I would touch on this as well. I can't do a body lift because I have a turnover ball that I use for hauling horse trailers and the fifth wheel camper. If I use a body lift, the ball would actually sit down under the floor of the bed. Which now that I think of it, I might want to go with just a 3" lift to preserve my hitching capabilities with my trailers. hmmmm
 
#3 ·
I'm pretty excited to lift it. And I know what you mean, I hardly see trucks as old as mine with any sort of aftermarket stuff done to it. Not bad to be unique though.

Anyway, thanks for the idea of price and such. I just don't want to buy something that looks good and ends up being trashy as all get out. I saw Tuff Country has some cheaper lifts, but I assumed that cheap is exactly what you get when you purchase those.
 
#5 ·
well this is the outlook I would take:

is this lift for looks?
for light offroading, splashing through some puddles, small mud holes?
or for extreme wheeling, climbing hills, rocks, where you need a lot of flex?

THAT would be how I determine the quality of lift I get. Do you catch my drift?

I was nervous about going RCX 6" for my upcoming lift, because it's significantly cheaper than other brands. But A LOT of guys run it, and I've read people say they are just as good quality, but they knock the price down because they are confident they'll sell a lot. Also, I just play around in some light mud, not crazy rock crawling where i need flex. So i don't need a $2500 lift with all upgraded components.
 
#9 ·
It doesn't look like it would be too big of a hassle to install. I have a buddy with a car lift and some bridge jacks he uses to work on cummins work vehicles. Should make the job pretty easy compared to using a floor jack and such. I'll just have to figure a way to lift the frame and let the suspension hang fully.
 
#12 ·
not sure about that. I'd assume they wouldn't develop a kit that would in turn sacrifice other components. ESP for some light wheeling. I'm not an expert on this tho, just sharing what I know
 
#14 ·
no prob. keep me updated
 
#15 ·
I have the fought country 5" kit on my truck. Nice kit comes with new control arms and almost everything you need to complete the install. You will how ever need new bolts for the control arms as the oem ones will break or have to be cut off during remove. The bolts are also dealer only item and are expensive. If I remember there around 20 bucks each. Also depending on how rusty your break lines are you might have to replace them. I had the rear line break and one front line break when I installed my kit. Make you you unbolt the lines from the frame so they can flex abit. If there really rusty the will break. Good luck and I would go with the 5" lift cause most of the time people start with 3 then want 5 anyways. Do it once and get it over with.
 
#16 ·
the guys screen name says COPPA under it....that's the child protective privacy act thing. means he's under 13???? what the heck
 
#17 · (Edited)
The 5 inch lift by Rough contry is an "ok" lift. They've really cheapened it up in the last few years. It'd probably be fine on a street truck.
That being said, I'd be piecing together a lift from better and stonger components. In the rear I'd use a shackle flip kit from DOR (DodgeOffRoad). Advantages to this mod are a better ride and enhanced towing. Plus an instant 5 inches of lift and you can get rid of the factory lift blocks.

On the front I'd get a set of 5 inch springs and DOR short arms.

The track bar will need to be upgraded. The shoddy RC mount that uses the factory bar has a history of coming loose all the time. There are a bunch of aftermarket bars in several price ranges that get rid of the factory t bar and replace it with better ends.

You'll also need a drop pitman arm and some extended sway bar links. If you're steering linkage is loose or marginal replace it with the 98.5 1 ton components. This mod really tightens up your steering input.

These components will give you decent ride, near factory handling and not destroy your towing capabilites. Also you'll be able to set your alignment to factory specs.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for all the help guys!! I'll be piecing a kit together probably because I DO need to keep my towing capabilities. Gonna take me a while to get the kit together (Poor college student), but I'll keep you guys update as I go.

Feel free to throw more suggestions my way! I would appreciate it a lot!!
 
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