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engine temp

2K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  mark1963 
#1 ·
i just got my truck back from the engine swap, what i noticed was my temp gauge with new engine run 1/2 to just a hair over 1/2 back too the half mark, it never goes over a hair over, on my old 4.7 engine was a hair under the half mark to 1/2 on the temp gauge, i believe that it is because the coolent is running thru the engine more freely,, has anyone noticed where there temp gauge is running, other then that i only have 70-miles on the new engine & already noticed a big diffrents in my gas milage & how fast it gets up too speed, don't have the lag my old engine had,!!

thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
i dont think a hair over half would hurt anything,, i was always told that the faster the coolant flows the warmer it gets, almost like what they say about taken out the thermostat, the coolant runs through the radiator too quick to,, HAS ANYONE NOTICE WHERE THERE TEMP GAUGE SETS WHILE DRIVING,???

I AM JUST TRYING TO MAKE SINCE OF THIS VERY SLIGHT CHANGE ON THE TEMP GAUGE, IT DOES HAVE A NEW WATER PUMP, COULD IT HAVE BEEN A DIRTY SENDING UNIT SWITCH FOR THE TEMP GAUGE, MAYBE THE SUPER LONG LASTING REDISH COOLANT THAT THE TOYOTA DEALER USED WHEN THEY INSTALLED THE NEW 4.7 MOTOR THEN THE GREEN STUFF I USED,, DONT GET ME WRONG, IT IS SUCH A VERY SLIGHT DIFFERENT IN THE TEMP GAUGE, IT SETS MOST OF THE TIME ON THE 1/2 MARK BUT THE HIGHEST IT WILL GO IS A HAIR OVER @ TIMES,,

THANKS
 
#4 ·
Both my Ram trucks always ran on the cooler end yet my Jeep tended to run on the warmer side. If my 318 was a hash mark above absolute cold, I was running hot lol and on my truck now, I sit a bit below half consistently, so still on the cooler end. I would think yours would run cooler, too with the new engine but so long as it stays steady and doesn't creep up on ya, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

- Cajun
 
#5 ·
well here is a little update, i was told i have a little air in my cooling system & that would cause this & need to bleed the system at the bleed screw in the morning before starting, can someone verify this,, i also checked the cooling system after driving & it was 185 degrees @ the upper radiator hose on the bleed screw with a temp gun, is that about the right temp,,

Both my Ram trucks always ran on the cooler end yet my Jeep tended to run on the warmer side. If my 318 was a hash mark above absolute cold, I was running hot lol and on my truck now, I sit a bit below half consistently, so still on the cooler end. I would think yours would run cooler, too with the new engine but so long as it stays steady and doesn't creep up on ya, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

- Cajun
 
#6 ·
I don't know about your particular vehicle
Many people are putting 180 degree thermostats in their vehicles that came with the 190s

How is your radiator, when was the last time it was flushed, or the tanks removed & had what is called RODDING OUT done to it
 
#7 ·
185 doesn't sound like anything to worry about. Like GT said, a lot of folks put a 180 t-stat in their trucks, but I have the same question as GT, when is the last time the radiator was flushed/cleaned? As for bleeding the system, I have never done that through a bleeder screw, always used the old fashion method lol.

- Cajun
 
#8 ·
the radiator is brand new, no more then two months old, t-stat 4-months old thats why i did not change it with the new motor, the the only thing that i had changed on the new motor was the water pump & spark plugs, it looks like the temp sending unit may be new, but not sure because the bolt holding it isn't, what would be the old fashion way to bleed the system,,

185 doesn't sound like anything to worry about. Like GT said, a lot of folks put a 180 t-stat in their trucks, but I have the same question as GT, when is the last time the radiator was flushed/cleaned? As for bleeding the system, I have never done that through a bleeder screw, always used the old fashion method lol.

- Cajun
 
#9 ·
More then likely you have some air left in there and it needs to be bled. My 4.7 runs a hair below half and the only time it deviated from this was a week before my radiator blew from a clog, then it would run a hair over half and from their the last couple trips midway between half and HOT!!!. I tried fooling with that bleed screw once and got 7 kinds of pissed. What I have always done is park the truck nose up and let it cool completely. Then I remove the radiator cap and start the truck. Put the heater on highest setting and let the truck run to operating temp, replace any lost coolant and replace the rad cap THEN shut the truck off. If you shut the truck off before replacing the radiator cap you will only be letting more air in. Take it for a ride, you may have to do this once or twice more.

That bleed screw will let a steady stream of coolant out while waiting to bubble out any air, the way I do it I have yet to lose any coolant, at $14 a gallon I have the time to do that 2-3 times then I have money to waste.
 
#10 ·
so you are thinking air in the system as well,?? like i said that everything is new, radiator, water pump, t-stat, and it was a hair below half untill friday when i drove it with the new rebuilt motor, thats when i seen it for the first time a hair over half, i don't think it's running too warm because my temp gun read 185. degrees at the bleed screw and thats right where it is comming from the block, so i really hope its just air, i have 100. miles on the motor and it never goes any higher then that hair over the half mark,,

More then likely you have some air left in there and it needs to be bled. My 4.7 runs a hair below half and the only time it deviated from this was a week before my radiator blew from a clog, then it would run a hair over half and from their the last couple trips midway between half and HOT!!!. I tried fooling with that bleed screw once and got 7 kinds of pissed. What I have always done is park the truck nose up and let it cool completely. Then I remove the radiator cap and start the truck. Put the heater on highest setting and let the truck run to operating temp, replace any lost coolant and replace the rad cap THEN shut the truck off. If you shut the truck off before replacing the radiator cap you will only be letting more air in. Take it for a ride, you may have to do this once or twice more.

That bleed screw will let a steady stream of coolant out while waiting to bubble out any air, the way I do it I have yet to lose any coolant, at $14 a gallon I have the time to do that 2-3 times then I have money to waste.
 
#11 ·
Just because its a new motor shouldnt make it run any hotter then it did before. Being that all parts related to cooling are new, an air bubble is the only culprit left. I would at least try burping it a time or two before accepting that thats just the way it is.
 
#12 ·
i think you misunderstood me,, i agree with you 100% about the air bubble,, there is nothing inside the new motor that can cause this, it can only be some trapped air or the new water pump is defected and i really don't think it's the pump because it would continue to get hotter & not stop a little over half on the gauge, i was just agreeing with you that it is a simple water bubble,, i think i am goung to bring it back to toyota dealer who installed the motor and have them burp it because they used that high dollar super long lasting pink toyota coolant since i already payed them,!! i know the question will be asked, why a toyota dealer rather then dodge,? because my son works there and i got one hell of a deal on the swap,
 
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